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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 694

post #10396 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

but whose is bigger? uhoh.gif

 

Pffft, I have no chance in that regard, I'm sure.

post #10397 of 13589
Regarding the origins of the gray flannel pants and tweed jacket.


http://www3.fitnyc.edu/museum/ivy_style/exhibition/j-press.html

Quote:
Others credit Jacobi Press with devising the "odd jacket." The clothier purchased an inflated inventory of English tweeds prior to World War I, but the demand for tweed declined with the advent of war because gabardine was the fabric required for military officers’ uniforms. After the war, Press needed to reduce his surplus inventory of tweeds—as well as flannels—and thus came up with the idea of pairing “odd” tweed jackets with "odd" gray flannel trousers.
post #10398 of 13589
post #10399 of 13589
I don't understand. 1936 is about a decade or so after WW I, no?
post #10400 of 13589
More than that even. But I would guess (maybe naively) that if this were a look that had been "invented" by a specific store only 15 years before, it would not already be so standard and seemingly unassociated with that store. Again though, maybe that's naive to think.

But really I'm just offering that as another data point, which you can interpret how you like.
post #10401 of 13589

15 years is a lifetime. Think about how much has changed in 15 years and it seems very likely that something could gain widespread credibility in that amount of time.

post #10402 of 13589
Supposedly Princeton is where it all began

Ivy Style, Mears, pg 22
Quote:
No school received more attention in Apparel Arts than did Princeton university. The importance of Princeton as a style birthplace must have been widely assumed . . . They become young men of style who set the trends that the rest of the country will follow.

Also, there was a J Press store in Princeton until 1942.
post #10403 of 13589
CM - im not concerned with your love affair with blue pents, i just dont get why you think gray pents are so useless. confused.gif
post #10404 of 13589

more here..

 

http://www.ivy-style.com/dateline-1929-princeton-invents-brown-tweed-grey-flannel-combo.html 

 

'Princeton guys essentially wrote the rulebook for dressing Ivy. Here they are credited with popularizing the wearing of brown odd jackets with grey flannel trousers in 1929. It’s from an April, 1935 passage in a publication called the Fashion Group Bulletin'.

 

post #10405 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

15 years is a lifetime. Think about how much has changed in 15 years and it seems very likely that something could gain widespread credibility in that amount of time.

For example the Thom Browne short jacket thing. That's about 15 years old right? It has spread well beyond TB himself but is still closely associated with him.

Anyway I didn't mean to offer it as conclusive proof that J. Press did not invent odd jackets.
post #10406 of 13589
Weren't Oxford bags usually flannels too though? Were they not worn as odd trous with tweed jackets?
post #10407 of 13589

Those archaeological posts above are the best development ITT in recent memory. Arguing about blue pants was totally worthwhile.

post #10408 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Weren't Oxford bags usually flannels too though? Were they not worn as odd trous with tweed jackets?

 

apparently yes ..  i like this tidbit-

 

January 1925, United States president Calvin Coolidge (1872–1933) declared that he "wouldn't be caught dead" wearing Oxford Bags. That spring the John Wanamaker department store began marketing the trousers in the United States

/..more: http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1919-1929/Oxford-Bags.html#ixzz2hO7hPMFd

post #10409 of 13589

fascinating tidbits there from poorsod, pliny, and unbel.  the roots and backstories of traditions are revealing.  A state supreme court justice was debating the value of precedent with my class once.  Some of the students were leaning toward a juridical philosophy that ignores prior cases, preferring to rule only according to the legal values fashionable in that captured moment of society's evolution.  The jurist responded that he considered precedent to be seated in the room with him, and before casting his decision, he would always at least consider how the silent chair would rule.

post #10410 of 13589
The earlier discussion about braces with odd pants reminded me of another question. There's a famous pic of Vox wearing trousers with braces showing a perfect back seam line. For those of you who are bespoke customers, do the back seams of your trousers hang straight without braces? I've done MTM at this point, and the seam line is cleaner, but not ideal. The only way I can get the backseam to fall cleanly is with braces.
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