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Buying and Selling on eBay: Tips, Tricks, Problems & Questions - Page 401

post #6001 of 15351
Quote:
Originally Posted by capnwes View Post
 

I always get US based service. What number are you calling? The one with the unique pin?

Yep.

post #6002 of 15351
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Abed View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by capnwes View Post
 

I always get US based service. What number are you calling? The one with the unique pin?

Yep.

EVEN BETTER is the new "call me back" option. They already have your account pulled up and your phone rings, no waiting on hold.

 

I do find I usually get a general help person in the US. If you get transferred to the "resolution team" that is overseas but when they cant resolve the issue and you get a "resolution team manager" then you get transferred back to the US.

post #6003 of 15351
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianpore View Post
 

EVEN BETTER is the new "call me back" option. They already have your account pulled up and your phone rings, no waiting on hold.

 

I do find I usually get a general help person in the US. If you get transferred to the "resolution team" that is overseas but when they cant resolve the issue and you get a "resolution team manager" then you get transferred back to the US.


+1, call back is the SHIT. Has worked out excellent thus far.

post #6004 of 15351

Mannequin arrived in a box earlier today. Just had a chance to put it/stand together and I am PSYCHED. Hopefully I can get rest of what I want for lighting on Saturday and begin shooting. So much shit to list.

post #6005 of 15351
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoeluv View Post

 

As for those black shoes, burn them and don't let the smoke come near you lest you be contaminated with their evil.

Senor Shoeluv....

 

I opted not to burn my earth shoes as you advised and just sold them for $79 plus $40 shipping to the UK.

 

That was an OK deal by me.

post #6006 of 15351

200,000 free listings over the next 10 days in case you didnt see it...

post #6007 of 15351
I got over 40 messages today from clients who purchased on Sunday saying their tracking showed that their packages were out for delivery today.... back in my town. Fucking USPS website.
post #6008 of 15351
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

I got over 40 messages today from clients who purchased on Sunday saying their tracking showed that their packages were out for delivery today.... back in my town. Fucking USPS website.

You should have just offered local pickup only.

post #6009 of 15351

Hi All,

 

I have a couple hundred vinyl, most classic rock, some autographed (james taylor, Eric Clapton, Joni Mitchel to name a couple) plus I am trying to settle my dad's estate and he has probably 300 albums, mostly classical, along with the big band stuff he loved. 

 

Is there a resource/ trusted appraiser resource that you folks use for these types of things?

 

many (like my copies of Dark Side of the Moon) are played a zillion times, while others are pristine. 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! 2nd question, but not ebay related. (Click to show)

2nd. My dad has a large collection of gold/ silver/ platinum coins that he's been buying for 40 years. The dealers I've talked to sound one step removed from an infomercial.

 

I'm looking for a straight shooter, reasonable commissions to appraise everything and then consign for my siblings who don't want to hold on to it. I ask this 2nd part here only because the collective breadth of expertise is astounding. 

Thanks

 

jb

post #6010 of 15351

For records, discogs.com will give you a very good average of what a record is worth. You have to search for something and then they'll have a section in the top right saying "3 for sale from $19.99 or whatever". Once you get in there, each one will be graded and you can get a general idea of what the worth should be. eBay for records is insane. There was an old record store in Minneapolis that would put things like Bruce Springsteen's 'Nebraska' for $1,000 and then when people would shop in their stores, they'd show them their listings and say, "see what that record goes for online?" and still sell it for way above what it was worth. Super shady place. Glad they're gone.

 

This is a good list of how to grade your own records: http://www.ebay.com/gds/A-guide-to-Vinyl-Record-Grades-/10000000000068836/g.html

 

Also, with classic rock stuff, you might do best selling them as a lot on eBay. I'm assuming most of them are not terribly rare and will only be worth a couple dollars/ea which can be a pain in the ass selling separately, since you'll need to order specific LP boxes to ship them. Find the rarer ones and sell those separately. Take lots of pictures of the sleeve and the record itself. Or throw up a Craigslist ad for "100+ classic rock LPs". They'll be gone within a day or two if you have them priced decently and you won't have to deal with shipping.

 

Hope that helps.

post #6011 of 15351

Also, as far as autographed records go (assuming you don't have any sort of authentication), you'd be best selling them to a record store or even an antique store. Way too many fakes out there and it's hard to trust a stranger on eBay if you're throwing down tons of money.

post #6012 of 15351
Quote:
Originally Posted by My Main Man View Post

Also, as far as autographed records go (assuming you don't have any sort of authentication), you'd be best selling them to a record store or even an antique store. Way too many fakes out there and it's hard to trust a stranger on eBay if you're throwing down tons of money.

lol. I had a friend in the Marine Corps who had several autographed photos on his wall. One was a picture of Chuck Yeager with "Bunky, Keep the rotor side up. Chuck Yeager" signed in sharpie.

I looked at it and asked how he got that. He laughed and said "I wrote that on there." He was making no pretense of having authentic autographs and was just goofing around with the whole thing. I suppose that those could be inherited or sold at a garage sale someday and in the future someone could assume that they were authentic.

And on a related note, several years ago I bought a used book on Amazon, a copy of The Night in Question by Tobias Wolff. When I opened it I was surprised to see that someone had signed the author's name inside. It was not sold as an autographed copy and I don't think anyone would have noticed it unless they were page checking. Is it authentic? Who knows?
post #6013 of 15351
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

I got over 40 messages today from clients who purchased on Sunday saying their tracking showed that their packages were out for delivery today.... back in my town. Fucking USPS website.

 

USPS scanned them backwards, as being delivered instead of picked up.  USPS site is technically correct since they were scanned wrong.  They're still going out for delivery but no way to track them now since it cannot be reversed per my own experience with this happening once. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jebarne View Post
 

Hi All,

 

I have a couple hundred vinyl, most classic rock, some autographed (james taylor, Eric Clapton, Joni Mitchel to name a couple) plus I am trying to settle my dad's estate and he has probably 300 albums, mostly classical, along with the big band stuff he loved. 

 

Is there a resource/ trusted appraiser resource that you folks use for these types of things?

 

many (like my copies of Dark Side of the Moon) are played a zillion times, while others are pristine. 

Thanks

 

jb

 

I used to buy/sell/trade in vinyl, and most mass-market classic rock, classical etc is dollar bin unless excellent or better then maybe into the regular bins at a record shop.  If mint (sealed & never played), really depends on the record but there's almost always a buyer for it.

If you're in the Portland OR area, Craig Moerer / Records By Mail would be a good resource for appraising.  Autographed do have some value if it's authenticated, but if the artist is still alive then you can check eBay prices to see how much (or little) they can be worth - depends on if the artist signs a lot of stuff or not.  Some everyday classic rock can be worth more than others, i.e.: if your Floyd still has the original stickers and whatnot - original inserts can sometimes be worth more than the record & sleeve.

For classical, there are some labels that are worth more than others, i.e.: INA-GRM, DG Avant-Garde and a couple others that escape me...same with DMM (Direct Metal Mastering) releases - half the time it doesn't matter who the artist is - folks collect releases on those labels / formats itself.  I never dealt in any big band - some releases on 78 can be worth good coin, most aren't worth much since they were rarely well cared-for.

If it never came out on CD and only exists on vinyl, that will garner some interest.  Same for some foreign pressings - oddball Japanese copies of everyday records can fetch some decent $ - that sort of thing.

If you don't think you have an original Beatles butcher album or something along those lines, if it were me, I'd take the ones I thought might be desirable or valuable and drop by a local record shop to see what they'd give me, which is usually about 20% of what they think they can sell them for, and they will (should) tell you how much they are paying for each record - at least that way you can see if they're giving you 20 cents for a bunch of them but $25 for one of them - that's the cherry record.

Unfortunately most records are not worth much, because they made so many of them and only the rare/sealed/etc copies have a value making it worth someones time to go through them all.

I assume most of the records have a bar code on the back - you can download a number of free bar code scanning apps for a smartphone and it will search prices online, assuming the bar code is in their database - some apps are better than others.  I use RedLaser (for books / records etc when I'm at a GW) but need to get a couple more apps since none of them are all that comprehensive.

post #6014 of 15351

Purchased an item. Measurements were way off. Contacted seller and he offered refund/return no problem. Do I leave no, neutral, negative, or positive feedback? I would have a hard time giving positive feedback due to the initial error, negative feedback seems too strong, and neutral feedback also seems like a ding. I'm thinking of going with no feedback. Thoughts? 

post #6015 of 15351

Does anyone have a link to the "Call me" option? I can't seem to locate it. Sounds like it's what I need.

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