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Buying and Selling on eBay: Tips, Tricks, Problems & Questions - Page 1880

post #28186 of 32480
Quote:
Originally Posted by My Main Man View Post
 

Not sure if this is helpful to anyone but me, but I thought I'd share in case you weren't aware and are interested. 

 

I have a Google spreadsheet organized by shirt/tie/suit/sport coat/etc. In those sheets, I have title, measurements, material, country, notes. I always write up the eBay title when I do measurements since the item is in front of me and I can get the most out of my keywords. I still manage to have half of my listings where the title is either 10 characters too short or 10 too long when I actually go in and list them. I figured out a way to know how many characters long my title is. 

 

Here's a screen grab of some ties.

 

 

The number in Row G is the character count and it correlates to Row B. 

 

The way you do it:

1. Click in an empty box that you want to correlate to the title box. (for the screen grab, it's G,510)

2. type: =len(column number and row number together with no spaces) - for the screengrab above, I typed: =len(B510)

3. hit enter. that will populate the character count. knowing eBay's limit is 80, you can then figure out where you're at and either add or delete and not have to worry about that when you go to list.

4. you can then click the box and then drag the little blue square at the bottom down as many rows as you want and it will auto-populate the corresponding row. (B511, B512, B513, et al)

 

 

Again, this may be common knowledge or not useful at all but it's been awesome for me. Thought it might help a couple people.

do you import this somehow into GarageSale? I keep thinking I'm going to have time to figure that out, but so far, nothing.

 

I also have a measurement spread sheet, but I print them out and write them by hand.

post #28187 of 32480
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianpore View Post
 

That looks like WAY too much work. Why don't you just take a follow up picture closer of the label?

It is way more work. I have templates built in a program called collageit that I use. I wanted to show all the surfaces, and be visible in the ebay gallery on mobile devices. When I started, a suit was 20 photos, the garagesale limit.

 

Now, despite knowing its a waste of time, I do the collages.

 

I have had a few notes from people thanking me for showing all the surfaces, but don't know if I have ever sold anything because of the extra shots.

 

 

 

And on the topic of measuring lapels, Jeffryd marked up this suit so show how he does it. The black line is his.

 

Despos does the same way, but also some people want the length taken along the gorge as Spoo noted. So, its perpendicular, unless someone asks otherwise.

post #28188 of 32480

I do the collages on fotor.com when I really think I need more than 12 pictures for a suit.  It's relatively fast.  Those pics look great, I'd be surprised if they haven't been making you more money/sales, but it's impossible to know.

post #28189 of 32480

Cut off the 'real' tag from NWT Zegna pants instead of the goodwill tag by mistake. :fu:

 

Please make me feel better by telling me I'm not the only one to have done this. Lie if you have to.

post #28190 of 32480
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reosymes View Post
 

Cut off the 'real' tag from NWT Zegna pants instead of the goodwill tag by mistake. :fu:

 

Please make me feel better by telling me I'm not the only one to have done this. Lie if you have to.


Add in the fact that you were under the influence of copious amounts of alcoholic beverages and I will back you up.

post #28191 of 32480
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reosymes View Post
 

Cut off the 'real' tag from NWT Zegna pants instead of the goodwill tag by mistake. :fu:

 

Please make me feel better by telling me I'm not the only one to have done this. Lie if you have to.

 

 

I've had enough beer in the past hour to admit to having done this once. :hide:

post #28192 of 32480
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reosymes View Post
 

Cut off the 'real' tag from NWT Zegna pants instead of the goodwill tag by mistake. :fu:

 

Please make me feel better by telling me I'm not the only one to have done this. Lie if you have to.

 

The only neg I ever got was when I did this as I was packing a tie to ship. I explained the situation and asked if the buyer wanted a refund, or I could still ship and would knock 30% off the item. She took the 30% and then filed a NAD claim and negged me anyway. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

post #28193 of 32480
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reosymes View Post
 

Cut off the 'real' tag from NWT Zegna pants instead of the goodwill tag by mistake. :fu:

 

Please make me feel better by telling me I'm not the only one to have done this. Lie if you have to.

post #28194 of 32480
Can't win this past month - first over $3k in sales to non-paying bidders - and now the Rolex buyer opened a return, stating "Doesn't match description or photos - I took the watch to Rolex Store in Miami, FLorida in the Miami Design District and was informed after having it checked out that it is not an authentic Rolex. Serial # does not match & was told it is a Replica. Seller stated that is was an Authentic Vintage Rolex between 1972-1979 Watch. "

Of course I took it to a local AD, and posted it on a well known Rolex forum - whose members said the outside looked good/had the right details - and the AD agreed (just that the movement was replaced - which was stated in the auction and included in photos). So I replied as follows

"I took the watch to a local authorized Rolex dealer who stated all external parts are authentic. As disclosed in item description, the movement was replaced with a Swiss movement. All external parts are legitimate, 100% authentic Rolex parts. Additionally, this item was posted on a well known online Rolex forum - whose members all agreed it was legitimate. It's possible that the watchmaker you had look at it didn't want to state it was 100% authentic due to the replacement movement (which was described and photographed in the auction)."

Wonder if I'm going to need to reach out to the specific watchmaker at London jewelers who verified the details for me in person, to back up this BS claim... Item description is in spoiler below as reference:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Up for sale is a vintage Rolex Datejust 1601. Made in the later half of 1972 (as indicated by the 8 over 72 on the band, for August 1972), this Oyster Perpetual watch is in original condition with the exception of the movement (which has been replaced with a Swiss 25 jewel movement as shown in the last couple photos). As you can see in the pictures, please note this watch is worn and has numerous scratches/scuffs throughout. It appears the pin between the lugs on one side cannot be removed as it appears to have been epoxied in place. I've had the watchmaker at my local Rolex authorized dealer confirm that all the external parts are original, 100% authentic Rolex parts.

Should you have the crystal replaced, the case/band polished, and a new crown added to the dial you could wear the watch as is (movement is functioning, as is date function). You could also drop in an original 1601 movement, or use the watch for parts!

Please let me know if you have any questions, and take a look at my other auctions!
post #28195 of 32480
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpk1 View Post

Can't win this past month Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
- first over $3k in sales to non-paying bidders - and now the Rolex buyer opened a return, stating "Doesn't match description or photos - I took the watch to Rolex Store in Miami, FLorida in the Miami Design District and was informed after having it checked out that it is not an authentic Rolex. Serial # does not match & was told it is a Replica. Seller stated that is was an Authentic Vintage Rolex between 1972-1979 Watch. "

Of course I took it to a local AD, and posted it on a well known Rolex forum - whose members said the outside looked good/had the right details - and the AD agreed (just that the movement was replaced - which was stated in the auction and included in photos). So I replied as follows

"I took the watch to a local authorized Rolex dealer who stated all external parts are authentic. As disclosed in item description, the movement was replaced with a Swiss movement. All external parts are legitimate, 100% authentic Rolex parts. Additionally, this item was posted on a well known online Rolex forum - whose members all agreed it was legitimate. It's possible that the watchmaker you had look at it didn't want to state it was 100% authentic due to the replacement movement (which was described and photographed in the auction)."

Wonder if I'm going to need to reach out to the specific watchmaker at London jewelers who verified the details for me in person, to back up this BS claim... Item description is in spoiler below as reference:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Up for sale is a vintage Rolex Datejust 1601. Made in the later half of 1972 (as indicated by the 8 over 72 on the band, for August 1972), this Oyster Perpetual watch is in original condition with the exception of the movement (which has been replaced with a Swiss 25 jewel movement as shown in the last couple photos). As you can see in the pictures, please note this watch is worn and has numerous scratches/scuffs throughout. It appears the pin between the lugs on one side cannot be removed as it appears to have been epoxied in place. I've had the watchmaker at my local Rolex authorized dealer confirm that all the external parts are original, 100% authentic Rolex parts.

Should you have the crystal replaced, the case/band polished, and a new crown added to the dial you could wear the watch as is (movement is functioning, as is date function). You could also drop in an original 1601 movement, or use the watch for parts!

Please let me know if you have any questions, and take a look at my other auctions!

If it were me - being the 2nd issue you had with the same item - I would try and sell the watch either without the movement (and with a letter from an AD, if possible) or sell/pawn in it person. Its just too complicated of a thing to sell online with it being a frankenwatch.
post #28196 of 32480
@bpk1 seems that buyers are seeing you stating "authentic" and not really reading the description...they're just skimming over and see "authentic / original" several times and bid/buy. If I were selling it, I'd sell it as a case (and band if applicable), and in giant bold letters state up front before anything else that the movement is not Rolex, as well as in the listing title if possible. Mainly because it's not a Rolex watch, it's a Rolex case and whatever else.
Or as Spoo said, sell or pawn just the Rolex bits.
post #28197 of 32480
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reosymes View Post
 

Cut off the 'real' tag from NWT Zegna pants instead of the goodwill tag by mistake. :fu:

 

Please make me feel better by telling me I'm not the only one to have done this. Lie if you have to.


get one of those tag guns. really cheap and put it back on. Another tip from @txwoodworker that he shared a few years ago.

post #28198 of 32480

My old crappy vintage photo flood finally died last week. Looking at getting something like this.

1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&mpt=[CACHEBUST]LED Photo Video Light Kit Boom Black Body Photographic Studio Lighting Carry Bag

I probably wont use all 3 at one time, but is anyone using this type? Is there a benefit to getting the "barn door" type instead?


Edited by capnwes - 6/13/16 at 1:15pm
post #28199 of 32480
In the field. Assume this is fake but is real leather. No returns

[IMG]
post #28200 of 32480
Quote:
Originally Posted by jebarne View Post

In the field. Assume this is fake but is real leather. No returns

[IMG]


I have never seen the rivets around the logo plaque look like that.

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