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Buying and Selling on eBay: Tips, Tricks, Problems & Questions - Page 714

post #10696 of 15770
Quote:
Originally Posted by marc roberto View Post
 


My post office stopped offering tape for priority, even at the desk they will tell you to buy. I think it was a money-saving decision across the country.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdgreg View Post
 

Can't blame them, I used that tape for quite a few college dorm moves lol

 

I still am amazed they give boxes for free. Sure it encourages more expensive flat rates, but damn.

post #10697 of 15770
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post

Was just looking at those, I'm guessing these bulbs will fit into any type of fixture (lamp etc), are your clip lights equivalent W and temp?

Standard socket... Only 40w.
post #10698 of 15770
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lirum View Post

I don't understand the wattage numbers, but a 5000K light on any lamp will give 5000K temp. No worries about the lamp it's screwed into. Edit: oh wow, wattage is obvious


Go by two factors. Lumens (output) and color. Color 5000k minimum. 6500k if you can.

In an incandescent world, watts mattered because it's how most of us shopped for light output.

Now a 60w incandescent might produce the same output as a 7 watt LCD or a 14 watt cfl. So you need a bunch of lumens. Be nice if a photo pro made some recommendations here.
post #10699 of 15770
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanM View Post
 

Here's a fun (not really) case:

 

Buyer purchased this sportcoat from me last weekend.  Package arrived today, and he opened a case at 2:24 pm stating that the jacket is a 42R rather than a 44R.  Pictures on the auction don't show the whole size tag, but you can see that the last number in the size is a 4, so the tagged size is obviously either a 34, 44, or 54. In the description the tagged size is stated as 44R, please see measurements below.  

 

Here's where I start getting really pissed off.  I usually don't do my ebay stuff until after my daughter's bedtime, as I work a full-time day job, have an hour commute each way, and don't get to spend a lot of time with the kiddo.  Remember - the case was opened at 2:24 pm.  This is about to become a very relevant detail.  Dissatisfied with how long it was taking me to answer (not quite 5 hours at that point) the buyer started googling my last name and cold calling anyone that was close to a match.  At 7:15 (approx) he ended up calling my 75-year-old father WHO LIVES IN A DIFFERENT FRIGGIN CITY AND HAS A DIFFERENT FIRST NAME and voicing his complaints about the transaction thus far.

 

So, although I have 48 hours to respond per the ebay resolution system, this guy has taken it upon himself to hunt me down less than 5 hours after opening his case, and bothering random family members of mine.  Thought I'd share here and get some advice before I call eBay customer service in a righteous rage...

 

 

WHOA!!!

 

What's his ebay handle b/c I'm going to instablock

post #10700 of 15770
Quote:
Originally Posted by jebarne View Post


Go by two factors. Lumens (output) and color. Color 5000k minimum. 6500k if you can.

In an incandescent world, watts mattered because it's how most of us shopped for light output.

Now a 60w incandescent might produce the same output as a 7 watt LCD or a 14 watt cfl. So you need a bunch of lumens. Be nice if a photo pro made some recommendations here.

Sweet, I think I understood some of those words. :lol:

post #10701 of 15770

What I can't figure is how to shoot navy or black things against a white background without really ramping up exposure, which kills any lighter colors. A black suit with good detail is always paired with a horribly blown out white shirt for me. I can fix it in post, but I don't like adding extra steps and time towards correcting photos. Especially when each shot is a subjective fiddling with levels or curves. 

 

This for instance: 

 

 

This was a couple months ago, so the white balance is off, and goddamnit there's shit on the lens too, but it's a good example. I want to be able to have this definition in the jacket but also not completely lose my shirt. Oh, and I want to do this without going the HDR route. 

 

edit: oh holy shit, THAT'S the purpose of a grey card!

 

edit2: damnit, actually no that won't give me a higher range


Edited by Lirum - 3/1/14 at 11:03pm
post #10702 of 15770

For those who post ties with a knot, such as Spoo's here:

 

Are you tieing this on your body and then putting it onto the table?  Or do you have some type of fancy in the hand quick knot?  I tried searching youtube but just come across a bunch of windsor type stuff. 

post #10703 of 15770
Tie in a normal knot (not a Windsor or 4 in hand) like you would tie a rope. Mess with it so it looks nice.
post #10704 of 15770
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdgreg View Post
 

For those who post ties with a knot, such as Spoo's here:

 

Are you tieing this on your body and then putting it onto the table?  Or do you have some type of fancy in the hand quick knot?  I tried searching youtube but just come across a bunch of windsor type stuff. 

Someone linked their youtube video here if you can find it. I believe it was brianpore.

post #10705 of 15770

Ok, whose listing is this? Hilarious. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUGO-BOSS-MENS-TWO-BUTTON-SUIT-40R-/191084842223?pt=US_CSA_MC_Suits&hash=item2c7d8b4cef

post #10706 of 15770
Is that a cpr dummy? Lmfao
post #10707 of 15770
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lirum View Post
 

What I can't figure is how to shoot navy or black things against a white background without really ramping up exposure, which kills any lighter colors. A black suit with good detail is always paired with a horribly blown out white shirt for me. I can fix it in post, but I don't like adding extra steps and time towards correcting photos. Especially when each shot is a subjective fiddling with levels or curves. 

 

This for instance: 

 

 

This was a couple months ago, so the white balance is off, and goddamnit there's shit on the lens too, but it's a good example. I want to be able to have this definition in the jacket but also not completely lose my shirt. Oh, and I want to do this without going the HDR route. 

 

edit: oh holy shit, THAT'S the purpose of a grey card!

 

edit2: damnit, actually no that won't give me a higher range

the background and work surface that Wes uses IS A gray card. on the munsell color standard, its a Nuetral gray 8. That particular system is used for color matching applications.

 

Wes thrifted an older model, but you can check out the spec's to the current models here: http://gtilite.com/cvx-color-viewing-station.htm

 

when I was first thinking about listing, I put together a table top photo station made from foam core board and clip lights. I actually made 2 of them. I painted the first on munsell neutral gray 8 and the 2nd I did a white that is used for painted projections screens. Both produced the same result, or essentially so. This befuddled me because I wanted the stark white to disappear the background. Trying to answer this question, I found out that DSLR's, at least the consumer versions, process white and NG8 as the same regardless of what you've chosen. Since there is more variability in whites than most people see, MG8 is a way to standardize white balance. 

 

When I decided I wanted to try to see if I could find stuff and sell it, I wanted to have a compact system. In fact, I designed a piece of furniture that would compress the entire photo set up into about an 18"x48" foot print. Everything folded up and out. before I invested a ton of time building that, I wanted to see if I could duplicate the lighting and get decent results. (you can probably tell, the fun of this for me is figuring stuff out.)  On the gtlite website, I saw a standalone over head light. http://gtilite.com/vertical-wall-viewing.html. This seemed like a good solution for keeping your set up compact, so that's essentially what I did. Theirs started at $2000 for the overhead fixture with bulbs. I bought a 4 foot troffer fixture with 4 bulbs and a 2 bulb light at lowe's and 6500K bulbs. I built a wood frame and mounted it. results were pretty good. I ended up with a 6 bulb system for about $100. Each of the lamps has 2700 lumens so over 16000 lumens overhead. and it doubles as a tanning bed. ;)

 

I've since taken the 2 bulb fixture and aimed it at the backdrop, changed diffusers a couple of times.....I almost never have to fix color now. 

 

I'm still dicking around with diffusing the light because I have that same issue of washing out the whites when capturing dark items.

 

There are so many variables from system to system. its hard to copy. Wes actually sent me a couple of his photos when I was testing my system. I wanted to check the metadata and see how his camera was set up for his shots. I manually matched his settings, ended up with a very good result, but with harsher contrast. Is it the Nikon vs Canon? is it the diffuser his system includes? is it the gray background? Is it just the innate talent of the shooter? 

 

I don't know, but he got me close enough that I was comfortable with starting a store. 

post #10708 of 15770
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJMcRibb View Post
 

Ok, whose listing is this? Hilarious. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUGO-BOSS-MENS-TWO-BUTTON-SUIT-40R-/191084842223?pt=US_CSA_MC_Suits&hash=item2c7d8b4cef

That's hilarious. a clear cut case of distracting ebay photography. I looked at the photo and I can't even remember the suit color, buttons or anything. but the image of the face transplant is clear in my mind.

post #10709 of 15770
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lirum View Post
 

 

Why uses flashes instead of continuous lighting from a softbox?

+1 for flash for me.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post
 

Cheaper/ Take up less space is what i'm getting from a general "lighting" search in this thread.

 

I just have a mannequin with no lighting with sort of limited room, what softbox do you use?

+1

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lirum View Post
 

 

All this, three months of tinkering, and I still can't get Snoogz' or suited's shots. :|

I fight against space, and from day one I told myself I was going to get a light set up, but never got around to it.  At this point, I won't purchase one because my method works great for me.

 

I use 4 5000k bulbs in my overhead ceiling fan, and a sb600 shoe mount flash that I turn to bounce.  I also lower my flash to -.3 because its too bright with my bulbs.  My results may vary slightly at times, but for me, there are took many PROS not to continue my way.  I don't have to worry about taking up any floor space what so ever.

post #10710 of 15770

What on earth would prompt me to use a red felt tip pen to record measurements? It fucking had to happen. Red ink on a pair of MINT Zegna pants. Dry cleaner says she'll try but the spot will likely stay.

 

:fu::fu::fu::fu::fu::fu:

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