Pants: flat or single forward pleat. Off-seam pockets. If there are belt loops then a center back loop is a must and five total loops.
Shirts: No collar stays. Ideally shirts have no slot for them either, so the collar can be flipped when it gets threadbare on top. Box pleat for BD collar, side pleats for spread. All shirts w/ barrel cuffs, single button and no gauntlet button. French cuff for tux only.
Shoes: no cap-toed bluchers. (OK on boots though.) No tassels of any kind.
Belts: 1 1/8" except 1" for plaque buckled belts. Anything 1 1/4 wide or larger is for jeans only. Never anything over or 1 1/2. Very plain buckles, no metal keepers.
I think I'm pretty open when it comes to ties and jackets, but I do have preferences.
Originally Posted by edmorel
I actually like black, wingtip gunboats with khakis
I wonder if this depends on one's hair/skin color. I wear black shoes w/ khakis and think it looks good in part bec. of my black hair and olive complexion.
Originally Posted by Manton
Navy trousers are objectively wrong.
I don't own a navy shirt and don't think I ever would but I do have a navy sweater and a sort of cotton pullover that are OK.
re: suits without ties, the only time I do this is when I am travelling and I don't want to pack the suit and I don't want to bother with a tie. Makes me feel vaguely sketchy, like a pick up artist, mobster, or professional con man.
How about air force blue?
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley
What if the belt is built into the trouser? Boom!
Originally Posted by LA Guy
I know that this is anathema to you, but sometimes I like to look slightly sketchy - especially if I'm wearing a suit - like Tom Cruise's contract killer in Collateral...
Sometimes? Did you just say "sometimes"?