Non-Rule "Rules" - Page 35

remarkable

Hmmmmmm...non-rule rules or idiosyncrasies:

• A breast pocket demands a square (OK, except on an overcoat)
• No white shirts with odd jackets (and almost never with blazers; maybe that is becoming a rule)
• A white shirt with a suit should be FC, unless the suit is ultra-casual.
• No BD shirts with suits, ever. I keep trying to loosen this rule but every time I try it I wind up changing before going out - something in me rejects the idea.
• Only brown or oxblood shoes with odd jackets / blazers
• No suits without ties. Once or twice a year I break this rule with a more evening-ish suit, thinking I look louche and dégagé, only to get home late and realize I look like an ass. I like the look on others sometimes; the rule applies to me.
• I studiously avoid matching the colors of my brace tabs and my shoes. Yeah, that's right - I'm a rebel. Lock up your daughters.
• Excessive trouser break bothers me more than anything else.
• All suit trousers take cuffs. 99% of non-suit tailored trousers take cuffs.
• I find I don't like fabrics made up with <11-12oz cloth, despite living in the tropics most of the time. I'd rather heavy linens, open weaves, et cetera.
• I'm formal enough that a suit is what I'd choose 90+% of the time, but I love suits in informal cloths or with less-formal design touches such as patch pockets. I would never go to work without a suit and tie, but I don't mind showing up in a linen 3-patch suit
• Shoes are made in Northhampton. Full stop.
• No metal cufflinks on colored shirts or during the daytime
• Only double-link cufflinks

i think the clunkyness depends on the model of the shoe. some i think look quite sleek.

http://www.massaro.fr/en/le-pret-a-chausser-masculin-1.php

I would like to comment on Massarro’s pret a chausser range, unfortunately I have never seen them in the flesh and the few pictures on the website are so ‘artistically’ photographed (i.e. pitch-black) that one can hardly see any specifics.



What little I can make out, I would say, they are stylistically very English indeed. Just as John Lobb, Paris (bespoke) or Dimitri Gomez is ‘English’ and Berluti or Corthay is not. There are some stylistic tweaks and refinements that indicate a French accent, but the language is English nevertheless. Close-cut welts and ‘Fishtail’ painted waists are so, so English, as is the manufacturer of these shoes.

The most wonderful ‘English’ shoes I have ever seen in my life were made by the French firm Hellstern (which existed from about 1880 – 1965). Initially a ladies’ shoemaker (like Massarro), they ventured at a later point into men’s shoes as well. And just as Lobb and Maxwell had branches in Paris, Hellstern had a branch in London (which must have closed in the late 50s).

The Hellstern shoe that I came across (sadly ruined by various ‘repairs’ from incompetent cobblers) showed the Prince of Wales plumes and the twin-headed Russian eagle and declared proudly “By appointment to the Prince of Wales and Archduke *** Romanoff “. Initially I was thinking of Charles, then the penny dropped: ‘OMG, that PoW was Edward’.

I only have a pair of sleek black suede zip boots so def NOT english styling, more of a rocker inspiration (they call it the Memphis). However most of their offerings are basically more harmonious than usual versions of classic dress shoes. I wouldn't call them english per se though, the line is very much in line (haha) with french shoe lasts.

I never wear black shoes.

Only wear white shirt with my navy and grey suits.

What about with a charcoal suit?

Examples, please.

I thought of two more:

11. I subscribe to magnificentbastard.com's n-2 rule for how many buttons to button on a polo shirt, where n = the total number of buttons on the shirt.
12. If I were single, the formula I would use for determining whether a woman was too young for me to date would be the "half + 7" rule: Take half your age and add seven years -- that's the minimum.

I think that last rule probably works up to retirement age. Not so sure after that.

My darkest grey suit is suitable for a dark brown shoe, or #8, which is what I generally wear with it.

I don't find the EpauletxCarmina clunky at all.

Better than most, but still.

i was really speaking from general recollection, but ill have to get back to you. do you thing the G&G oakham (?) on a sleeker last is clunky?

Relative to a single, yes. It's better, though.