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Non-Rule "Rules" - Page 21

post #301 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldog/oldtrix View Post

The dreaded gray sportcoat and charcoal trousers, all in one place:
post_fullengthsml.jpgpost_closeupsml.jpg


Is that a wool tie?

post #302 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by CBrown85 View Post

Sincere question- is it possible to be in the middle-middle class or lower-middle class and be well dressed? I'm noticing a pattern with foo's posts (not so much with manton) that unless one 'commissions' their clothing they're an asshole who doesn't care about aesthetics.
For instance, can I get my jackets from Suit Supply and my trousers from Brooks Brothers and still be considered 'well-dressed' or should I quit while I'm ahead. Likewise, can I put on a pair of APCs and a white tshirt on a Saturday and be considered a good person?

I don't detect condescension in anyone's tone here. Nore is anyone is ruling out people buying good stuff off the rack, even when they frame the discussion from a bespoke perspective.
post #303 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by CBrown85 View Post

Sincere question- is it possible to be in the middle-middle class or lower-middle class and be well dressed? I'm noticing a pattern with foo's posts (not so much with manton) that unless one 'commissions' their clothing they're an asshole who doesn't care about aesthetics.
For instance, can I get my jackets from Suit Supply and my trousers from Brooks Brothers and still be considered 'well-dressed' or should I quit while I'm ahead. Likewise, can I put on a pair of APCs and a white tshirt on a Saturday and be considered a good person?

Two things: (1) from personal experience, both with clothing and other things, I strongly believe you generally get what you pay for, and (2) I make no assumptions about anyone's financial wherewithal. Thus, yes, the optimal solution is often to get a better tailor. Now, if someone tells me that's not feasible, it's one thing. As a community, I think we should try to address everyone's situation regardless of their means. But I also think there should be no illusion that you can easily spend much less to get as much as what another spends much more to obtain. To dress well, you need to have an eye for detail and nuance--so, telling yourself "oh it's all the same," which happens a lot when people don't want to believe nicer things tend to cost more, is something to be avoided.
post #304 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

I like gray odd jackets in non-suiting cloths, such as whipcord. Mid-gray can look great with khakis and makes for ideal casual wear -- toss it on and go. But I agree it's a later addition to a wardrobe.

I'm sympathetic to your position, if only because I have a fuzzy grey twill odd jacket that I wear with khakis or sometimes with cream cords. That said, I wouldn't buy this jacket again. Like a lot of members here, I made several ill-advised purchases as I started getting interested in tailored clothing. Most of them I got rid of, but the grey jacket is pretty useful for me, especially considering how casually I dress 350 days a year.

Some of you guys are posting pics of grey tweed jackets, and those are in no way considered "wrong."
post #305 of 733
Many Manton rules broken in this fit.

DSC_0034-1.jpg
post #306 of 733
Thread Starter 
fuck that is terrible
post #307 of 733
Thread Starter 
Ctp @120

That is not good for a lot of reasons. Quite “suity” without being a suit. The coat is not variegated enough to be a good gray odd jacket. Coat and trou too close in tone. One other important point. While the coat fits well, to me this is a big advertisement for the benefits of drape. You have somewhat narrow shoulders and a shallow chest. Your hips look bigger than your chest and just barely as wide as your shoulders. Add some drape to that coat and all that gets fixed by magic.

Dieworkwear @ 298: I am pretty sure the top pic is the LL Agnelli flannel, that is, a suit. The second pic is iusedtobematt’s gray Donegal. Gray Donegal is nice.
post #308 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Ctp @120
Dieworkwear @ 298: I am pretty sure the top pic is the LL Agnelli flannel, that is, a suit.

you are correct. gaz said as much in your "whnay." thread.
post #309 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Ctp @120
One other important point. While the coat fits well, to me this is a big advertisement for the benefits of drape. You have somewhat narrow shoulders and a shallow chest. Your hips look bigger than your chest and just barely as wide as your shoulders. Add some drape to that coat and all that gets fixed by magic.

Interesting. While I've nothing against drape and like most examples I've seen, you could hardly be more wrong about my real physique. I'm tall and thin (40 jacket), but I actually have a pretty muscular build with the opposite of a shallow chest and a 10 inch drop from jacket to pant size.
post #310 of 733
Thread Starter 
All you need to do is fill out the chest a little near the bottom of the armscye. Look at iwasmatt's gray donegal.
post #311 of 733
Meant to say too, that while I agree that the trousers and coat are probably too close in this pairing, I disagree that the jacket isn't variegated enough. It's not like matt's donegal, sure, but it still easily reads as an odd jacket in person.

I also appreciate the effort you're giving to comment on everything in these threads, even if I disagree with some of the assessment. Keep it up.
post #312 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Two things: (1) from personal experience, both with clothing and other things, I strongly believe you generally get what you pay for, and (2) I make no assumptions about anyone's financial wherewithal. Thus, yes, the optimal solution is often to get a better tailor. Now, if someone tells me that's not feasible, it's one thing. As a community, I think we should try to address everyone's situation regardless of their means. But I also think there should be no illusion that you can easily spend much less to get as much as what another spends much more to obtain. To dress well, you need to have an eye for detail and nuance--so, telling yourself "oh it's all the same," which happens a lot when people don't want to believe nicer things tend to cost more, is something to be avoided.

So, in short, the answer is 'no'.
post #313 of 733
Thread Starter 
It is not possible to approach the platonic ideal of well dressed without money. It is quite possible to improve one's dress on a limited budget and even to dress much better than people who spend a lot more but have no taste and/or no idea what they are doing.
post #314 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

It is not possible to approach the platonic ideal of well dressed without money. It is quite possible to improve one's dress on a limited budget and even to dress much better than people who spend a lot more but have no taste and/or no idea what they are doing.

^This.
post #315 of 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

It is not possible to approach the platonic ideal of well dressed without money. It is quite possible to improve one's dress on a limited budget and even to dress much better than people who spend a lot more but have no taste and/or no idea what they are doing.

agreed. sadly.
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