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Non-Rule "Rules" - Page 17

post #241 of 772
Amen to Manton, I got caught up in getting some neat 'unique' pieces but didn't have enough staples for a coherent cross-wardrobe upgrade. Now I'm working getting enough white and blue dress shirts, basic trousers, etc so the staples are interchangeable and bring the consistency up to a new level. I have recently, at least, taken care of most of my sport shirt needs so I'm rarely in a t-shirt anymore... and now I feel under dressed when I am!
post #242 of 772
Re: the trajectory, I think the constant chorus of the forums/blogosphere/menswear movement has made it worse, dulling people to just how unusual a lot of the stuff popular online seems to the average person. Orange trou that once seemed so daring now need spiced up, so our recent convert adds blue shoes ... and some beads ... and a knit tie ... and ends up speaking a language only his efriends understand.

I dress pretty sedately these days. Partly because of the trajectory and partly because I realize my chelseas and knits aren't as mundane to everyone else as they seem to me.
post #243 of 772
Another non-rule rule of mine: Shoes shouldn't be the focal point of an outfit -- not for color or contrast or shape or decoration.
post #244 of 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

Another non-rule rule of mine: Shoes shouldn't be the focal point of an outfit -- not for color or contrast or shape or decoration.

100% agreed.
post #245 of 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Stitchy, among people who really dress well, here is what their trajectory was (if they had good guidance at the beginning). I started a thread about this once but I can't remember the title. Might have been "simplicity." Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Anyway, when you start getting serious about "building" your wardrobe and dropping serious coin, you have to get the basics. My first bespoke commission was a navy blue suit and a pacel of solid blue and white shirts. Then a solid gray suit. Then a blazer. Etc. I had to do this because I needed stuff that I could wear in any situation, over and over. I was going by what I had studied in Flusser and AA. But a lot of guys who are into clothes make the mistake of buying individual pieces that grab their fancy and that might be very nice but that are hard to pair. Then they have to go to a job interview and they have this lovely tom ford windowpane in the closet but no solid gray SB. And they are fcuk'd.
So, the right way is to start out with only the basics. Blue & gray for suits, blue & white for shirts, a blazer and maybe a couple of tweed jackets--brown or B&W herringbone, brown or olive gun club, etc--gray flannel pants and khakis, some solid ties, some repps, and some businessy prints or wovens. Voila. Most everything goes with everything else. Not literally. You still can't wear your white FC shirt with tweed and not look like a fool. So you need to know the basic rules. But if you have those things and rudimentary knowledge, then you can make a small total number of pieces go a very long way, without getting bored yourself and without boring the people who have to look at you.
Then once that's accomplished, the good dresser starts to get antsy. He wants to branch out. More patterns! More colors! More textures! More more more! He starts to look like a dandy. Nothing is incorrect, but the only time he looks sedate any more is when he has to.
Then eventually that fire burns out and he goes back to blue and gray, and brown tweed and gray flannel and repps and solids, etc., and lives happily ever after.

thank you for that. it both gives me hope, and makes me want to hit myself.

my first "commissioned" piece was a zegna su misura, medium gray herringbobe with a sky blue chalk stripe. which i love, but have found to be so minimally versatile i get so ffffuuuu.gif when i think about what i spent on that when i really needed so many other things.

on the other hand, i have since bought a solid gray suit, a bunch of solid white and blue shirts, and some nice solid gray and brown SCs.

then again, i have fallen off the wagon numerous times buying things that caught my eye, only to find them useful with a single combination of other items.

i think i really need to work on getting a lot more versatile ties. some soporific neats and solids.

your narrative is great, and its definitely a path i think i am on. though i imagine i will always tend to lean towards a bit of excitement, for better or worse, its just my personality. money is a tad lacking, but that just means it will take longer.

thanks, manton. smile.gif
post #246 of 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

which is funny since it was invented in england but, yeah, I never see it there either. Some while back a bunch of english guys jumped all over me for saying that. They insisted that the BD was very popular in England. Well, I've been going since 1983 and I never see them.

If you were looking for formal/business shirts, you'd never see one. The English do use button down collars but they call them "sport shirts" (which can also refer to the even rarer short sleeve shirt) -- and they mean that. It would look very odd to wear one with a suit, especially in the city.

See, e.g.,

http://www.harvieandhudson.com/products/Shirts/Button_Down_Collar
post #247 of 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


Then do they all just look like crap when they wear their collars open?


Pretty much.

post #248 of 772
Thread Starter 
Stitchy, don't ever but another solid gray odd jacket again.
post #249 of 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Stitchy, don't ever buy another solid gray odd jacket again.

but what will i wear with my navy office pants? peepwall[1].gif

it was herringbone, does that make a difference?

either way you are probably/definitely right. it doesnt have a whole lot of versatility. if it were a more casual type, i thought it would be nice with khakis. would that be correct?

also, while i have you here, i just bought this below, posted a few pages back in this thread. acceptable, or in the "dont ever do that again category?"

DSC_0079-2.jpgcloser up of actual colors (Click to show)
DSC_0026.jpg
post #250 of 772
Thread Starter 
I definitely would not have bought that coat. I like small checks in light weights for summer and I have two. But they need a summery palate, the ground should ideally be yellow and the rest of the colors soft, almost pastel, or else bottle green but the light shade should dominate. Lesser used to have a delightful carlo barbera book, all lambswool 8 ounces, summer mini checks, every single one had a yellow ground. Fantastic. That's gone so these days I recommend Hardy Riviera which is not as nice but the closest you can get.

What you have there is formalish pattern (small houndstooth) in formalish colors (black, gray and white) and the result is, it looks like a big wedding tie--acres and acres of wedding tie fabrrc. Not good.

For a gray odd jacket, my first recommendation is don't get one, my second is to get one only after you have other stuff--at a minimum, one blazer for warm weather, one for cold, two tweeds, one brown one olive (or something), and either a light summer jacket or a linen suit whose coat you can wear separately in the summer. Once you have all that and you still want a gray odd jacket, then you can get a Harris tweed B&W (or dark & light gray) herringbone, or a gray donegal with lots of heathery flecks, or a large-scale B&W glen plaid (with NO overcheck) either in soft tweed for fall-winter or a slubby silk blend (pure silk is too shiney) for spring-summer. That's it. All other gray odd jackets suck.
post #251 of 772
FML frown.gif

ill wear it for now i guess, but we will see how long for.

was planning on using charcoal pants. good idea? what shade would you use if you HAD too?

thanks for the advise. will definitely keep in mind for my future purchases.
post #252 of 772
Thread Starter 
I guess mid gray is the best you could do. Cream or offwhite gabardine if you have them.
post #253 of 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

also, while i have you here, i just bought this below, posted a few pages back in this thread. acceptable, or in the "dont ever do that again category?"

What size wuz it?
post #254 of 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I guess mid gray is the best you could do. Cream or offwhite gabardine if you have them.

i have no white or cram dress pants. not my thing. mid gray it is. thank you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

What size wuz it?

44R. FTR, i am gonna keep it and wear it. i do like it, despite my newfound knowledge. the question is only how long for. smile.gif
post #255 of 772
  1. Only solid white or solid pale blue shirts for court.
  2. If I wear French cuffs, it's silk knots unless I wear my late grandfather's plain gold cufflinks engraved with his initials.
  3. No button-down collars with a suit, unless I'm wearing a bowtie.
  4. Only button-down collars with a bowtie.
  5. Only plain white or cream pocket square for court (and 95% of the time otherwise).
  6. No rollerskates for court.
  7. No more than two patterns at the same time.
  8. Probably other things I do subconsciously.

Also:
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

Another non-rule rule of mine: Shoes shouldn't be the focal point of an outfit -- not for color or contrast or shape or decoration.

QFT.
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