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Off-the-rack suits and waist suppression question

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 

I have recently purchased two new suits, a Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald during the summer sale and a Jos A Bank tailored fit (I know, I know, but I was looking for something in the specific color/pattern and it was 90+% off).  Both suits tend to fit me snugly off the rack, and in fact, I purchased them a size smaller than I have always previously bought.  While both seem to fit well in every other regard, there is virtually no suppression at the waist, as if the jackets are wrapped around a perfectly round cylinder instead of a human torso.

 

Are there any alterations that would give a more suppressed waist look, presuming that the jacket isn't actually too large in that area?  Is the unflattering silhouette just a result of my figure (I'm very thin, with virtually no musculature in the chest), or is it more caused by the boxier cuts of the jackets?

post #2 of 13
Yes.
post #3 of 13
Yeah, bringing in the waist should be a pretty straight forward alteration. Just make sure you bring it to a good tailor; from what I've read from some of Despos' posts on here, there's a certain way it's supposed to be done and proper procedure isn't always followed.
post #4 of 13

could be the cut of the jacket. slim v classic fit... which is probably the fit that you bought

 
post #5 of 13
I think it is more likely of your build

Anyway, you should consult a reputation tailor to see what can be improved.
post #6 of 13
pics?
post #7 of 13
I've learned to try to buy jackets or suits that are already on the more aggressive or slim side so that other parts of the suit that are more difficult to tailor reflect the slimness already... particularly the armhole. If you buy a full cut jacket, you're likely to find that it has a large armhole as well. Plus, I'd rather give my alterations tailor the least amount of work to do so there's less to screw up.
post #8 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by CounselorStyle View Post

I have recently purchased two new suits, a Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald during the summer sale and a Jos A Bank tailored fit (I know, I know, but I was looking for something in the specific color/pattern and it was 90+% off).  Both suits tend to fit me snugly off the rack, and in fact, I purchased them a size smaller than I have always previously bought.  While both seem to fit well in every other regard, there is virtually no suppression at the waist, as if the jackets are wrapped around a perfectly round cylinder instead of a human torso.

Are there any alterations that would give a more suppressed waist look, presuming that the jacket isn't actually too large in that area?  Is the unflattering silhouette just a result of my figure (I'm very thin, with virtually no musculature in the chest), or is it more caused by the boxier cuts of the jackets?

Off the rack jackets at most large suit outlets and retail stores rarely come with much waist suppression or non at all. The objective is to manufacture a product that can fit the greatest number of consumers for each individual size category offered. I've said it before, but it is my view that an off the rack suit is meant to be tailored in some way as the standard sizing system will fit very few without some alterations being performed. Basically, never wear an off the rack suit without getting it taken to an alterations tailor first. Some here have bodies that can accomodate an OTR suit with little or no alterations needed, but they seem to be a minority here and may not look as good as they think they do in an unaltered OTR suit

Also, if you are very thin with virtually no musculature in the chest as you have just decribed, I would say that you have no business purchasing at a Jos A Bank, whatever the discount. Jos A Bank sells suits targeted for the husky to fat male office worker.
post #9 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by facet View Post

Yeah, bringing in the waist should be a pretty straight forward alteration. Just make sure you bring it to a good tailor; from what I've read from some of Despos' posts on here, there's a certain way it's supposed to be done and proper procedure isn't always followed.

link to Despos' explanations?
post #10 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by CounselorStyle View Post

I have recently purchased two new suits, a Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald during the summer sale and a Jos A Bank tailored fit (I know, I know, but I was looking for something in the specific color/pattern and it was 90+% off).  Both suits tend to fit me snugly off the rack, and in fact, I purchased them a size smaller than I have always previously bought.  While both seem to fit well in every other regard, there is virtually no suppression at the waist, as if the jackets are wrapped around a perfectly round cylinder instead of a human torso.

 

Are there any alterations that would give a more suppressed waist look, presuming that the jacket isn't actually too large in that area?  Is the unflattering silhouette just a result of my figure (I'm very thin, with virtually no musculature in the chest), or is it more caused by the boxier cuts of the jackets?

Leave it alone before you ruin it and knock the proportions off. A waist that is too suppressed will look like a girl's jacket and make you look likr you have a big arse. Even the Madison which is the roomiest cut looks fine.

post #11 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by CalTex View Post

link to Despos' explanations?

Unfortunately, I can't remember the exact thread in which I read his explanation; it's just one of those things I came across during my lurks on SF. From what I remember, the member was talking about an alteration that he had done and Despos pointing out that the tailor had, incorrectly, taken the waist in from the centre seam when it's supposed to be done via the ones on the side.
post #12 of 13
Dang, I will have to browse more! smile.gif

Is there a thread that explains how different items of clothing should be altered?
post #13 of 13

Yes, you can bring in the waist line of a Jacket but, find a good tailor if you want the job to be done properly. There is two ways of doing it. Taking in the jacket by the back seam line or, if your jacket has them, the 2 seams in the front.

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