or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Care for shell cordovan color #8- Alden longwings 975
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Care for shell cordovan color #8- Alden longwings 975 - Page 2

post #16 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by mymil View Post

Shell doesn't need cream polish because it doesn't need additional pigment, and it doesn't need polish (either cream or wax) to get a nice shine. Some people claim that the turpentine in cream polishes actually damages the shell; I don't know. What would it mean to "overfeed"? I don't add very much at a time, and I don't think I do it too frequently... so feed, yes. But overfeed, hopefully not. What I do know is that Renovateur improves the appearance of the leather.


My understanding is this:
  • Saphir wax polishes contain turpentine. They use it because it's volatile and evaporates quickly. It's the same principal as using naptha in other cheaper shoe polishes.
  • Most creams do not contain turpentine. Creams are not designed to give a high shine finish. So they don't need something so volatile.
  • Reno contains turpentine. Reno has turpentine because it's also a good solvent, so it helps in the cleaning part of the "cleaner/conditioner" product.

As far as I can tell, the only difference between saphir's "Cordovan" cream and it's normal MDO cream is that it also contains neatsfoot oil. The logic being that shell cordovan is "stuffed" with oils following tanning by Horween, and neatsfoot oil is a major component of this stuffing formula. The availability of "real" neatsfoot oil is questionable, so i'd be interested to know from where Horween sources theirs.

Also, I would guess that it is possible for shell to dry out, just as it's possible for any leather to dry out. Thus it would need occasional conditioning - be it from a cream, a dubbin, or a conditioner.

Myself, I find that "creams" are better than "polish" on shell, as shell doesn't seem to absorb much product well, and polish tends to get stuck on the surface. I do find that the saphir cordovan cream works well. I am also working on making my own cordovan cream with pure neatsfoot oil, but I haven't got the proportions right yet. The last one I made had a bit too much beeswax and made a film on the shoes as it wasn't being absorbed properly. I think i'll decrease the wax content, increase the oils. It's also tempting to just use a purely oil formula, although I think this would darken the leather significantly.
Edited by hendrix - 8/14/12 at 3:18am
post #17 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by mymil View Post

Shell doesn't need cream polish Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
because it doesn't need additional pigment, and it doesn't need polish (either cream or wax) to get a nice shine. Some people claim that the turpentine in cream polishes actually damages the shell; I don't know. What would it mean to "overfeed"? I don't add very much at a time, and I don't think I do it too frequently... so feed, yes. But overfeed, hopefully not. What I do know is that Renovateur improves the appearance of the leather.

ah ok.
post #18 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:

Myself, I find that "creams" are better than "polish" on shell, as shell doesn't seem to absorb much product well, and polish tends to get stuck on the surface. I do find that the saphir cordovan cream works well. I am also working on making my own cordovan cream with pure neatsfoot oil, but I haven't got the proportions right yet. The last one I made had a bit too much beeswax and made a film on the shoes as it wasn't being absorbed properly. I think i'll decrease the wax content, increase the oils. It's also tempting to just use a purely oil formula, although I think this would darken the leather significantly.

you're making your own cream?! fascinating! can we hear more details on how you are managing to do this?

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Care for shell cordovan color #8- Alden longwings 975