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Bespoke Trousers: Current Trend

post #1 of 31
Thread Starter 
hunter.jpg 738k .jpg file

 

Seeing an uptick of requests from clients demanding old-school, retro-looking side-adjusters (a.k.a. buckles) with their bespoke trousers. With no loops on the waistband, belts are rendered useless. Brighter colors and "busier" patterns are certainly on the rise. Pants have a certain minimalist (neat and clean) feel to them and they pair well with a nice, solid-colored dress shirt (lighter color).

 

Such details, obviously, aren't always available in the off-the-rack merchandise and allows clients to express their individual personality - For example, notice the sliced, monogrammed pockets. These sartorial features are, by no means, new and have been popular in the past. "Times are a-changing," sang Bob Dylan. But in a circular fashion, it appears. 

 

Would love to hear your comments, concerns, suggestions and feedback. Thanks!  

post #2 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Franc Lloyd View Post

hunter.jpg 738k .jpg file

Seeing an uptick of requests from clients demanding old-school, retro-looking side-adjusters (a.k.a. buckles) with their bespoke trousers. With no loops on the waistband, belts are rendered useless. Brighter colors and "busier" patterns are certainly on the rise. Pants have a certain minimalist (neat and clean) feel to them and they pair well with a nice, solid-colored dress shirt (lighter color).

Such details, obviously, aren't always available in the off-the-rack merchandise and allows clients to express their individual personality - For example, notice the sliced, monogrammed pockets. These sartorial features are, by no means, new and have been popular in the past. "Times are a-changing," sang Bob Dylan. But in a circular fashion, it appears. 

Would love to hear your comments, concerns, suggestions and feedback. Thanks!  

Are you advertising these/your services as a tailor?
post #3 of 31
Thread Starter 

No, I am not advertising. Just looking to start a conversation with other members. I am new to the forum, recommended to join by another long time member. Thanks!

post #4 of 31

Yeah I'd totally agree with you on that - I would certainly go for side adjusters over a belt - think it looks cleaner and it's also a bit of a bespoke detail. I also think that patterned trousers with a conservative shirt are a great way to set yourself apart without looking to loud or forward but you really need to find that "Goldilocks Zone"

 

Have you noticed a trend with cuff size at all? From what I've seen certain guys who do wear cuffed trousers are getting them put at anything up to 2.5", way bigger than I've seen in the past. I think it can look great on tall thin guys but large cuffs can look out of proportion on shorter guys.

Just a (pointless) related thought actually - is there some form of rule for your own height related to the most flattering cuff size? Or do you put cuffs on purely in line with client preference?

post #5 of 31
Thread Starter 

The revival of the cuff, yes! Totally noticing that along with the ankle-bearing, "clam-digger on Cape Cod" hem. Wholeheartedly agree that stubbier men should stay clear of over-sized cuffs - totally counter-productive.

As for your question, generally its best to play it by ear, case-by-case, depending on the length and girth of the individual. After all, its custom and, like you said, client's preference should always be accounted for.

post #6 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Franc Lloyd View Post

No, I am not advertising. Just looking to start a conversation with other members. I am new to the forum, recommended to join by another long time member. Thanks!


Your opening form of words seem very strange then.

"Seeing an uptick of requests from clients demanding old-school, retro-looking side-adjusters (a.k.a. buckles) with their bespoke trousers. "

Whose clients?
Edited by GBR - 7/19/12 at 12:54pm
post #7 of 31
Thread Starter 

Words seem very strange? Hmm, pleading guilty as charged, your honor! 

post #8 of 31

People moving towards looser (but still slim) tailored pants, no belt with higher rise -- pleats coming back as well. Suiting more classic, larger lapel -- pendulum swinging back from the "skinny" insanity. Athletes wearing TF etcetera.

 

Pretty stoked about the beltless pants and larger lapels myself : - )

post #9 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

Your opening form of words seem very strange then.
"Seeing an uptick of requests from clients demanding old-school, retro-looking side-adjusters (a.k.a. buckles) with their bespoke trousers. "
Whose clients?

He hasn't mentioned his shop specifically or isn't going "hey come buy trousers from me." I mean, it may have been worded a bit funny, but I think he was saying that his clients are requesting side-adjusters over belt loops more and wants to know if others have noticed that trend as well.
post #10 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokencycle View Post

He hasn't mentioned his shop specifically or isn't going "hey come buy trousers from me." I mean, it may have been worded a bit funny, but I think he was saying that his clients are requesting side-adjusters over belt loops more and wants to know if others have noticed that trend as well.

So why not come clean in the first instance and say that he is a tailor rather than deny that in Post 3 and admit it in Post 7? As a tailor comment such as Chris Despos, the worth is vastly increased by a simple explanation.

Another tailor could be a valuable contribution if a skilled craftsman with his own work room ie not just someone who measures in shop for MTM.
post #11 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post


So why not come clean in the first instance and say that he is a tailor rather than deny that in Post 3 and admit it in Post 7? As a tailor comment such as Chris Despos, the worth is vastly increased by a simple explanation.
Another tailor could be a valuable contribution if a skilled craftsman with his own work room ie not just someone who measures in shop for MTM.

 



Read his initial reply (3#). "No, I am not advertising. Just looking to start a conversation with other members. I am new to the forum, recommended to join by another long time member. Thanks!" No where in that statement doe the poster deny being a tailor. He/she simply denies using his/her post to solicit or advertise.

 

If they are are tailor and do not wish to admit it, what does it matter? Frankie says relax.

post #12 of 31
Thread Starter 

Great observation! Bigger lapel allows for more of a pronounced silhouette (Read: Jackets with more tapered stomach, waist-lines). However, I think, Tom Ford has taken this idea to an extreme with his ultra-large peak lapels etc. 3-inch wide lapel (notch or peak) usually would suffice for an average-sized man.   

post #13 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Needsmoreshoes View Post

Yeah I'd totally agree with you on that - I would certainly go for side adjusters over a belt - think it looks cleaner and it's also a bit of a bespoke detail. I also think that patterned trousers with a conservative shirt are a great way to set yourself apart without looking to loud or forward but you really need to find that "Goldilocks Zone"

 

Have you noticed a trend with cuff size at all? From what I've seen certain guys who do wear cuffed trousers are getting them put at anything up to 2.5", way bigger than I've seen in the past. I think it can look great on tall thin guys but large cuffs can look out of proportion on shorter guys.

Just a (pointless) related thought actually - is there some form of rule for your own height related to the most flattering cuff size? Or do you put cuffs on purely in line with client preference?


Regarding cuff size, Alan Flusser recommends 1 5/8" for men up to 5'10", and 1 3/4" for men over 5' 10".

post #14 of 31

...really anything but the RTW 1" cuff.

post #15 of 31

The beltless trouser looks cleaner and I have to admit it makes me look trimmer around the waist so my entire look is seamless.

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