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How are Isaia sportcoats supposed to fit?

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
I recently made a couple random buys on 2 Isaia 38 sportcoats from STP. I had been shopping for hangers, towels, and other random household stuff when I ran across these.

I received the coats today. I thought the modern Isaia's are supposed to be relatively slim fitting? For reference, I typically wear a 38s in modern cut suits (RLBL, BB milano, or corneliani leader).

1. One of them is a blue linen base S: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/isaia-subtle-herringbone-sport-coat-linen-for-men~p~4855g/?filterString=s~isaisa%2F&colorFamily=03

This one is massive on me. It's marked a 48 IT sizing. The shoulders are okay (17.5) but the rest of it is massive throughout the chest, arms, waist. I have to admit the fabric and overall styling is awesome but I think I would need a 44 or 46 short or something based on how big/long this one is. There is no way I can wear this one so it has to go back. It looks like I'm wearing someone else's coat. Is this typical for base S?

2. The 2nd is a cotton/linen solid tan base G, also 48 IT sizing (no longer shown here, but it was this model): http://www.sierratradingpost.com/isaia-sport-coat-cotton-rich-for-men~p~2841j/?filterString=s~isaisa%2Fsizefamily~chest%3B38%2F&colorFamily=11

Interestingly, this one is tagged "Sailor" rather than base G. Is the Sailor model the same as base G? The shoulders fit properly (17.5) and the length on this is okay (29" BOC). But again the rest of the coat is massive on me. I'm going to see if my tailor thinks he can cut this one down to fit me properly but it might need a lot of slimming down.

I guess my basic question is whether all Isaia's fit like this (big)? I had read that they are supposed to be cut slim and modern. I know their base V is the slimmest model, which I have not seen in person or even in stores. The other thing that I found striking is that there is a huge difference between the base S and the base G (? sailor) to the point that the base S almost seems a full size bigger.
post #2 of 5
Yikes, $1200 minus 35% for a linen sportcoat?

The "Sailor" model is a variant of the Base G, I believe. It has just one big button on the cuff, right? I sold one on the B&S not too long ago in navy wool/cashmere blend for $650.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/304147/holy-grail-navy-sportcoat-40s-40r-2200-nwt-isaia-napoli-at-72-off

I wouldn't say they run big. In fact, I had originally bought it for myself, but found it too be too tight in the waist and a bit on the short side.

Post fit pics if you want a fit critique. Can't help much without them.
post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Yikes, $1200 minus 35% for a linen sportcoat?
The "Sailor" model is a variant of the Base G, I believe. It has just one big button on the cuff, right? I sold one on the B&S not too long ago in navy wool/cashmere blend for $650.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/304147/holy-grail-navy-sportcoat-40s-40r-2200-nwt-isaia-napoli-at-72-off
I wouldn't say they run big. In fact, I had originally bought it for myself, but found it too be too tight in the waist and a bit on the short side.
Post fit pics if you want a fit critique. Can't help much without them.

Cuffs on both were unfinished but the sailor comes with 4 buttons for each cuff.

For the length, I guess I was expecting a shorter than standard length but the base S measures a standard 30" boc (I know this is normal for 48 IT but I thought these were supposed to be cut shorter than normal), and the sailor measures 29" boc. I think my bigger problem is that they fit massively big on me overall throughout the entire body, especially the base S.

I somehow got 45% off at checkout (not sure how or why), even though the coupon in my email had said 35% so I paid ~ 650 for the blue linen and ~ 470 for the tan cotton/linen blend. I thought those were reasonable prices? The linen is fully lined and fully canvassed. I had a lot of luck with a RLBL linen from Mr. Porter (similar price), which is why I grabbed this one. I guess I'll have to send it back b/c the fit is way off and I wasn't that convinced I could pull the light blue off anyway. The tan cotton/linen is only half-lined.

I'll try to get pictures up later but always have trouble posting b/c for some reason neither my laptop or desktop want to read my SD cards.

p.s. I saw the navy one you were had before, which was awesome but the shoulders were too large. I think I'm going to need to go after 46R base G or 48R base V in the future, b/c the base S just seems massive.
post #4 of 5
Here's something a few years old (2009) from Isaia:

The Sirio ( S Body)- The most popular body within the Isaia line is also the fullest in structure The S Body is the base in the collection from which all others are derives. Defined by its classic Neapolitan natural shoulder, this garment was shortened slightly in 2008 to give it a more contemporary expression. This model as with all Isaia garments is available in 2 or 3 button, peak and notch lapels, single or double breasted.

The Vesuvio (V body)- A tad more suppressed in the torso than the S body, these garments are defined by their rope shoulder, and even higher armhole.

The Tribeca (T-Body)- The T body has a suppressed torso similar to the V-body. A lightly roped shoulder and very fitted sleeve- similar to that of a sweater.

The Gregory (g-body)- Similar to the S body yet defined by a softer shoulder, this design carries a shorter body, and a mildly tapered sleeve.

The Dustin Body (d- Body) This model has an even softer shoulder than the S Body, and even more natural deconstructed shoulder and is generally styled in a French face/half lined jacket. This shoulder shows "grinze" creases/pleating at the sleeve head. This soft jacket is usually accompanied by a 3 patch pocket.

The X Body- Similar to the G body characterized by the single button closure which created a more fitted midsection with in the garment.


Some of the Isaia garments on STP are of questionable vintage and cut. They may be mistakes or returns to the factory. I recently returned a linen coat that fit nicely through the shoulder, but was cut oddly wide just under the armholes. This created a billowing effect just under the armholes in the back. Luckily, STP has a pretty lenient return policy.
post #5 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaneurNYC View Post

Here's something a few years old (2009) from Isaia:
The Sirio ( S Body)- The most popular body within the Isaia line is also the fullest in structure The S Body is the base in the collection from which all others are derives. Defined by its classic Neapolitan natural shoulder, this garment was shortened slightly in 2008 to give it a more contemporary expression. This model as with all Isaia garments is available in 2 or 3 button, peak and notch lapels, single or double breasted.
The Vesuvio (V body)- A tad more suppressed in the torso than the S body, these garments are defined by their rope shoulder, and even higher armhole.
The Tribeca (T-Body)- The T body has a suppressed torso similar to the V-body. A lightly roped shoulder and very fitted sleeve- similar to that of a sweater.
The Gregory (g-body)- Similar to the S body yet defined by a softer shoulder, this design carries a shorter body, and a mildly tapered sleeve.
The Dustin Body (d- Body) This model has an even softer shoulder than the S Body, and even more natural deconstructed shoulder and is generally styled in a French face/half lined jacket. This shoulder shows "grinze" creases/pleating at the sleeve head. This soft jacket is usually accompanied by a 3 patch pocket.
The X Body- Similar to the G body characterized by the single button closure which created a more fitted midsection with in the garment.

Some of the Isaia garments on STP are of questionable vintage and cut. They may be mistakes or returns to the factory. I recently returned a linen coat that fit nicely through the shoulder, but was cut oddly wide just under the armholes. This created a billowing effect just under the armholes in the back. Luckily, STP has a pretty lenient return policy.

I have a pre-2008 Sirio which was renamed Base2 around 2009-10, wasn't it?
At time not only was the jacket shortened but extra padding was added to the shoulders.,
ruling it out for me. The last time I checked- a few years ago, Paul Stuart carried it's
own Isaia model(s) the Stuart with a a longer, fuller coat and very natural shoulders.;
The price was close to Kiton territory.
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