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Commissioning My First Bespoke Suit This Week - Page 2

post #16 of 28
Thread Starter 

1000

 

So I finally got my suit yesterday. There are a couple of things I didn't catch while I was at the tailors so I will have to go back to have some alterations done.

 

What I caught with my novice eyes are the diagonal lines on my right back shoulder blade. I think that's from uneven shoulder heights, but I may be wrong.

 

I also noticed that the pants are bunching up/wrinkling up too much as you can see in most of the pictures. What is the cause of that?

 

Anyways...I am looking for some suggestions as to what should be altered as I have another week here in HK and would like to put the finishing touches on the suit before I leave.

 

Any help would be apprecaited. Thanks!

 

BTW, dont mind the shoes, I know they have to go. Also, I know the sleeve length of the shirt is a bit long.

post #17 of 28
The shirt sleeve length is not long, your jacket sleeves are way too short.

edit: I'm no tailor, or pro, but the jacket looks a bit sloppy around the waist from the front view, is it you or is it too roomy in the front?
post #18 of 28
Not very good at all - I am surprised this was allowed out of the shop.

Sleeves too short, back of jacket not clean, trousers just not a good fit through thigh and leg.

Disappointing but maybe typical of Leem, may be he sensed a novice and did not pay attention at the forward fitting at which all this should have been picked up at the latest.
post #19 of 28
Thread Starter 

what needs to be done to fix the trousers?
 

post #20 of 28
The sleeves look ok to me. The trousers just have the wrong balance or something, don't know what can be done to fix that. The jacket quarters/skirt is cut closed and square, which has given some people the willies. I don't think it's "wrong" necessarily, it's just not something that's particularly popular right now. The jacket might have short front balance too though, hard to tell from photos.
post #21 of 28
Thread Starter 

I am gonna go back on Monday and see what the tailor can do about the pants and have him alter the back to get rid of the diagonal crease. The sleeves seem fine to me, since when I do the test I was refered to somewhere here on the forum (where you put your hands at your sides with the palms facing back, and raise your hands upwards so that the palm is facing the floor, and the hand forms a 90 degree angle with the arm), the sleeves just rest on the top of my hand.
 

post #22 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by LokStock View Post

I am gonna go back on Monday and see what the tailor can do about the pants and have him alter the back to get rid of the diagonal crease. The sleeves seem fine to me, since when I do the test I was refered to somewhere here on the forum (where you put your hands at your sides with the palms facing back, and raise your hands upwards so that the palm is facing the floor, and the hand forms a 90 degree angle with the arm), the sleeves just rest on the top of my hand.

 

Sleeves are too short.
post #23 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

Sleeves are too short.

You mentioned this earlier. It doesnt look like it to me. OP is fine with the sleeves. I suggest we not focus on it any longer unless the OP wants to.
post #24 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

You mentioned this earlier. It doesnt look like it to me. OP is fine with the sleeves. I suggest we not focus on it any longer unless the OP wants to.

Agree entirely - neither of us have to wear it.
post #25 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

Not very good at all - I am surprised this was allowed out of the shop.
...

I am afraid I have to agree here. Also, not sure what guidance you gave Peter Lee, but it's certainly far from the RLBL look you started this thread with. A lower button stance and more waist suppression would have perhaps gotten you closer to that look, but then again, not sure that you will really want that for law firm interviews (although that somewhat depends on the type of firms you're targeting).
post #26 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by LokStock View Post

So as you can tell (<<<<), I am new to this forum. I've been lurking some threads for the past few weeks and now I think I am knowledgeable enough to intelligently commission a suit (I freaking wish I came on here to learn all these things before I bought a couple of OTR suits back in Canada, since now I can see how horribly they fit me)

I am currently in Hong Kong for a few months and as suggested by many, including many SFers, it is worth getting a bespoke suit while you're in town. 

I think I've settled for Peter Lee as my tailor, as he appears to have the best balance between price and quality (I am unlikely to be able to afford the likes of Chan or Sam or YWY)

I am looking for a particular look. Something modern and slimmer looking, but not super skinny hipsterish. Although I may get criticized for this, I am going to go for the half canvas. I made that decision because of the price difference given that Peter wants HK$2000 (~$300US) more for canvased vs half-canvas for any given fabric. 

I think I am going to try to have peter attempt the following fit/shape in a navy color (I have not picked a fabric yet): 

http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3410210&cp=2871712.2877459&ab=ln_men_cs2_suits&parentPage=family

My biggest worry is making the jacket too short, since that seems to be the number one indicator of a clubby/hipsterish suit. What length should be aiming for to get the above mentioned look without it looking too fashion forward. 

Also, I'd appreciate any other instructions I could give Peter, specifically in terms of shoulder shape/construction as I do not want to boxy of a look. 

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Especially, if you could suggest another fit/shape similar to the one I posted that you think looks better. 

I also have two questions: 

1) Do you think the cut of the trouser (and the suit in general for that matter) is appropriate for law interviews, as in, is it not too skinny? 

2) Would Peter be able to do (some pretty major) alterations to two existing suits I have? If not, can you recommend a knowledgeable tailor in HK that could help me out. 

Anyways, I will try to update you guys on the progress and provide a critique once the process is underway. 

Cheers! 

Your example is Ralph Lauren's take on the skinny suit fad (fashion). Not extreme, but it has a short jacket and narrow lapels
which will look dated sooner than a suit of more classical proportions. Also, the shoulders are too square. IMHO. I prefer true
natural shoulders. If you have the build for them , no need to improve on nature.
post #27 of 28
Thread Starter 

By how much? 1/8 inch? more? 

post #28 of 28
More waist suppression perhaps....what fabric did u pick by the way?

Juz my 2cents...
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