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Atelier Musella Dembech - Master Tailor in Milano, Italy - official affiliate thread - Page 6

post #76 of 186
Thread Starter 

Thank you all :)

 

unbelragazzo: actually all our jacket are cut as I told you before but the body proportions may influence more or less lenghtening of the front or back.

The word Paletot is an old term to define all the SB and DB with peak lapels and some other characteristics but as you may know we have a lot of regional differences so there are different type accordingly to that.

 

thinkderm: the roll is soft not hard as you may imagine. Also, keep in mind that when you button DB jacket to the second button the roll become more hard folded.

The rollè in a DB must be seen when the jacket is unbottuned or at least buttoned to the first button (also the softness of the rollè depends by the weight of the fabric - this is 680 gr.)

 

For example:

 

 

 

AppleMark

post #77 of 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by Musella View Post

btromano: I don't think it would be within the forum rules to post prices, but you can send me a pm and I will give you all the prices you need. Thanks
Musella, you are a forum affiliate no? If yes then of course you may post prices like all the affiliates may. Nice gear by the way.
post #78 of 186
Thread Starter 
SB w. patched pockets in gray and hazelnut tweed windowpane

SB w. patched pockets in gray and hazelnut tweed windowpane

post #79 of 186
Thread Starter 
Ciao a tutti,
 
So, I thought it would have been interesting to let you see also the high waist trousers we have made to go with the DB jacket in the sharkskin fabric. So here is it:
 

 

post #80 of 186
That jacket is really fantastic. Gray odd jacket haters be damned. What's the construction on those shoulders? Is that just a normal spalla camicia? It looks like there might be a little more structure to it but it might be just the shape of the wearer's shoulder.
post #81 of 186
Thread Starter 

Thank you. The Milanese shoulder is completely different from the spalla a camicia, that is neapolitan and always without any underconstruction.

The construction of the shoulder in our own style is highly complexed because changes by the wearer, by the anatomy of the person. We study and design a pattern for every shoulder, the pressure and depression of the shoulder line like what happens inside a bespoke shoe.

Our philosophy is "you can't use the same shoulder on all the persons because we are all different and we got different shoulders anatomy".

post #82 of 186
The sleeve head is still sewn in with the seam allowance pressed to the shoulder side, as in the spalla camicia, yes?
post #83 of 186
Also it looks like even though there is some construction in the shoulder the chest is fairly soft with some drape, is that right?
post #84 of 186
Thread Starter 

the spalla camicia is very different, also how the sleeve head is sewn. To better understand these things you should have one of our jacket onto your shoulders :)

The shoulder is soft and with a little construction allowing the chest and the shoulder to drape and highlight the natural movement of the body.

post #85 of 186
The trousers look beautiful. I appreciate the closure with the four buttons.

The shoulder on the sport coat is very striking, as well. And the pattern matching is great. Do you ever do a sports coat without darts when there is a particularly obvious plaid?
post #86 of 186
Thread Starter 

Thank you. No, actually we always use our pences, but the fabric patterns (also on plaid) match as well.

post #87 of 186
What's that white fringe/frill on the edge of the placket on the shirt you're wearing below? I've never seen anything like that before. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Musella View Post


Edit: Hmmm... Darn it, quote doesn't seem to work. I'm referrring to post #78 above
post #88 of 186
Thread Starter 

That it is not my shirt but the one of my customer so I can't help you, sorry.

post #89 of 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

That jacket is really fantastic. Gray odd jacket haters be damned. What's the construction on those shoulders? Is that just a normal spalla camicia? It looks like there might be a little more structure to it but it might be just the shape of the wearer's shoulder.


I had the opportunity of visiting Musella's atelier last week and all i can say is the pictures don't do justice to the quality of his work. That being said he's making milanese style suit and not soft napolitain suit. The canvas in Musella's suits is more thick/hard than napolitain suits that i have so no matter the construction or padding he's using his suits are more structured than napolitain suits.

The spalla camicia "effect" seen in this photo comes from wearers shoulders in my opinion and not construction (area where the sleeves meet shoulder is really straight). Regarding drape, Musella's suits are not that drapey (less than napolitain suits) but it has this structure at the chest (which gives imo a very masculine effect). Actually it's very similar to one suit that i have from Naples  but as his suits are more structured , the effects are more pronounced. I will have more to say about after first fitting which is in 3 weeks. But the jacket above is really fantastic, the roll of lapel is just wonderful

 

post #90 of 186
Thread Starter 

Dear all,

For those who may be interested we are planning to come to Switzerland and south Germany area: Zurich, and possibly also to Munich or Frankfurt during the first weeks of March.

As many of  You already know, our own style is based on the old Milanese and Caraceni Milanese, being my father one of the old and last masters of this method characterised by a very soft and lightweight but still structured style.

You can check some of our works on our website: www.muselladembechmilano.com

To sign up and to place an appointment, you should contact me by phone at (+39) 340 8520357 or email me at muselladembech@gmail.com

 

Gianfrancesco

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