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Atelier Musella Dembech - Master Tailor in Milano, Italy - official affiliate thread - Page 8

post #106 of 186
Thread Starter 

 

 

 

Another of our SB with the London Lounge City Gunclub fabric, flaps and vintage corozo buttons

 

 

 

post #107 of 186
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Doppio 4 buttons in Fox flannel and horn buttons

 

post #108 of 186
Thread Starter 

Earth brown herringbone tweed SB with patch pockets, hard to work on this with 40 degrees!

http://www.muselladembechmilano.com/post/53367424538/sb-herringbone-earth-tweed-punishment-under-the


 

post #109 of 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfoverdx View Post


Napoli jackets are completely different than this jacket. You can read hundred of posts about difference between two jackets but you really can not understand without trying both (i am skipping details like shoulders shape, open quarters etc. which is written everywhere)... Napoli jackets are worn very close to the body. They are light when you wear it in the sense that it covers your body, however they are not light in weight, the canvas used in napoli suits seems to me soft but not thin. In milanese jacket it's more hard but not that heavy. Milanese jacket is light weight but as canvas is more harder the jacket has more SHAPE. Milanese jacket has really a nice shape.
Construction is different as well, Musella will give better details for sure but least i can say is during fitting, napoli jackets are basted everywhere, in milanese jacket canvas is sewn only in some places (where there are darts etc).
Again you really need to wear them to feel the difference. it's really not shoulders or open quarters that make difference, it's the inner construction and the way of construction that make difference.

But the shoulders look different- much more built- up and/or extended, correct?
post #110 of 186
Thread Starter 

The shoulder is a little bit angled with a completely different construction, the neapolitan shoulder is very different from ours; it is constructed like a shirt so the shoulder is almost inexistent.

Our shoulder is constructed as a shoulder and most importantly on your shoulder, like a second skin for your bones and muscles, it is soft but at the same time it is not a waterfall. But as said previously if you don't put this on you will never understand the difference from a picture.

post #111 of 186
Thread Starter 

SB unlined + unlined sleeves suit with Minnis fresco

 

post #112 of 186
Thread Starter 

 

 

 

 

SB herringbone earth tweed - punishment under the sun with 40 degrees!

 
post #113 of 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by Musella View Post


Nice. Will it be see through without the lining? Minnis fabric number?
post #114 of 186
Thread Starter 

Not that much as one may think, also because this one is a 2 piece fresco and the weaving is less open than, as to say, the 3 piece.

post #115 of 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by badsha View Post

Nice. Will it be see through without the lining? Minnis fabric number?

Looks like a standard 506 to me.
post #116 of 186
Thread Starter 

here the lovat herringbone jacket completed with horn buttons:

 

http://25.media.tumblr.com/f090c0b37de40ffa97e39d8b24aa80b5/tumblr_mpcz24t6q01s474uyo1_1280.jpg

post #117 of 186
Thread Starter 

DB works in progress

 

post #118 of 186
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2 ply Minnis french blue fresco

post #119 of 186
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Our housecut double breast in blue linen and mother of pearl buttons
post #120 of 186
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Waistcoat 1st fitting

 

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