Originally Posted by katabatic
A 52L is 30"?!? No wonder I've never been able to wear Boglioli regulars.
fwiw, the jackets are meant to fit short. There are always changes in menswear, and these days, even the conservative jackets from European makers are general cut short. I know of very few companies who adhere to the knuckles rule anymore, with the conservative makers tailoring the jackets to come just to the end of the seat, but no longer than that. The more modern companies usually make jackets that end about 1" before the end of the seat. Of course, these jackets look best either extremely slim, to the point where they are about a hair away from pulling a bit when buttoned up, or quite boxy - worn more like a harrington than a sportsjacket. Thom Browne. has turned out to be a lasting influence in menswear, it seems.
Good or bad? I'd argue, neither. Just a slight shift in the paradigm. The length and volume of suit jackets is constantly changing. In the 90s. I would have considered a 30" length to be pretty normal on a sports jacket. Now, at 5'11", I wear most of my jackets between 28" and 28.5" but I know lots of guys who wear jackets closer to 27.5", which makes for an extremely short skirt. Bumfreezer jackets.