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Milan: Brief Thoughts (also now featuring Naples reports) - Page 3

post #31 of 129
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

I need to see photographs of the velvet jacket.
What was your best meal in Naples and why?

Don't worry, pics coming, perhaps tomorrow, if not then certainly Friday. I hope my terrible photographic skills can do it some justice.

From a purely food point of view, my favorite meal was my final night. I went to dinner with Mina after some time spent looking over fabrics for a couple of suits. Unfortunately I can't remember the name of the place, but I think it was right across from Umberto's. Mina knew the guys there, and they basically just brought us a bunch of antipasti with some light direction from us. This resulted in a fantastic eggplant alla parmigiana, a very nice mozzarella di bufala, an extremely interesting and succulent fried pepper stuffed with ricotta, as well as some balls of fried stuff that were very tasty. After that I had a seafood risotto which I wish I had enough room to finish. Didn't look at a menu the whole time I was there. This is my favorite kind of meal to have, where you go to a restaurant, give them some vague idea of what you like and entrust yourself to them for the evening (da Fabio, the Bolognese restaurant I mentioned, works this way).

As an entire experience, the previous night was perhaps even better because Dino joined us as well. As much as I love spending time with Mina, in this case three makes for very good company. Also that night we had a very interesting beer, which is probably the first time I've had a good beer in Italy.
post #32 of 129

Did you check out any of the other tailors in Naples (Panico, Formosa etc.)?

post #33 of 129
Thread Starter 
I had hoped to but didn't. I even sent Solito an email but never heard back, which is more or less as I expected. In the end I was only really there two days, as I arrived on Sunday and nothing happens on Sunday, and then left on Wed morning. What's more I stayed out late Sunday watching Italy win their soccer game, then out late again Monday night. So I wasn't exactly getting a quick start in the morning. Then on top of that I like to take my time in and between stores. If I run around trying to get to everything I end up enjoying nothing. Add to that the heat which made me less eager to stroll for 15-20 minutes to Solito or Matuozzo, and the fact that I had no real plans to order anything from them, and you get the result of me not making it over. Pleasures to save for the next trip...
post #34 of 129

Thank the good lord that Solito never responded. Crook.

post #35 of 129
Thread Starter 
I did look in the window of Formosa as its right next to Cappelli. It was closed when I was there though. Looked very nice.
post #36 of 129
Thread Starter 
In contrast to Cappelli, Marinella is quite easy to find. It's on the street at the bottom of Chiaia (Chiaia, by the way, is a zone as well as a street. Adding to the confusion, there are other streets that have "Chiaia" in their name that aren't THE "via Chiaia", which is a pedestrian walkway uphill from most of the shops. My favorite of these is "Vico Belledonne a Chiaia" - "Beautiful Women in Chiaia Lane".) From the storefront you walk in and pretty much immediately see the whole store. Ties are laid out in boxes in front of you, with other silk products, such as women's scarves and pocket squares for men, as well as other accessories such as watches and cufflinks, tucked into various corners and glass showcases, available to be brought out at a moment's notice.

As has been noted in other spaces before, they specialize in a lined, tipped, tie, with most of their patterns falling into the category of what we might call "neats", what in Italy (or at least Naples) are called "micro-fantasie". Marinella is by far the best-known tie-maker in Naples. In fact the couple of times when I asked random people where I could find Cappelli in the course of my search, they responded, "Oh, you mean Marinella? It's down there." This fame is well-deserved. The quality of the silks and construction of the products are immediately evident. My eye was first attracted to a gorgeous print in pink that turned out to be a ladies scarf, not a pocket square as I was hoping. However this led to me being shown the pocket squares, in different sizes, all with nicely hand-rolled edges. All the prints are gorgeous, some of them very old. The gentleman showing me the squares proudly pointed to the year "1931" printed on one of the squares as the birth year of that design.

The two boxes of pocket squares they showed me however, included none in pink, so I asked specifically if they had any pink squares. The gentleman helping me sent another employee off to look for such squares in some other storage space, leaving us to have a nice chat. I found the comportment of the Neapolitan salesman refreshingly unique. Never did I feel pressure or rush to buy anything. They have enough pride in their products that they don't need to hawk them. Displaying them is enough. They're quite likely to be interested in where you come from, what you do, and how your stay in Naples is going. This personal interest comes naturally and honestly. And so it was with the elegant signore as we waited for the result of the search for pink pocket squares.

Our conversation was interrupted by some bad news. No pink pocket squares could be immediately found. However I was assured that if I came back tomorrow, some would be available. Happy just to have seen the beautiful store and enjoyed a nice conversation, I prepared myself to leave, sure to return the next day. But yet more surprises awaited! A gorgeous blue and white pocket square I had been admiring was put in my hand. "This one is my gift to you today," said the signore. A very generous gift! I thanked him heartily and redoubled my promise to return the next day. He asked me my name. I told him and asked his. "Io mi chiamo Maurizio Marinella." The grandson of the original Marinella himself.

The next day I returned. Maurizio wasn't there, but 3 pink pocket squares were. I happily bought two of them.

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post #37 of 129
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

"This one is my gift to you today," said the signore.

 

You do realise you have just now cursed the poor people at Marinella with a influx of rude tourists demanding their free pocket square because they read about it on SF? tongue.giflaugh.gif

post #38 of 129
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

You do realise you have just now cursed the poor people at Marinella with a influx of rude tourists demanding their free pocket square because they read about it on SF? tongue.giflaugh.gif

Ha, I had considered this, but I hope that people are good enough to realize it was a friendly gesture after a nice conversation and an inability to find a square in the color I wanted. Please don't go demanding pocket squares, people.
post #39 of 129
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Edited by Svenn - 6/30/12 at 8:53pm
post #40 of 129
A proper man wears a jacket whenever he wears a tie - regardless of the temperature.

It's not as bad as it sounds - if you wear an unlined cotton or linen or a super light weight wool. As a matter of fact, it can actually be cooler than just a shirt.
post #41 of 129
Thread Starter 
Not really, they wear jackets year-round. I was wearing a (too heavy) jacket around my first day in Naples and ended up pretty well drenched. Should have worn an undershirt that day.
post #42 of 129
Thread Starter 
Here's the cream DB....

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post #43 of 129
Thread Starter 
preview of things to come...

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post #44 of 129
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post #45 of 129
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