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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 359

post #5371 of 12288
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingusberry View Post

What do I need to do to increase the rise of my pants? I am thinking about order a pair of chinos, but my last order that came from Luxire had too low rise. 

Unless I'm misunderstanding your question, just tell them to increase the rise on your next pair. If you want to increase the rise on the pants you already have, you're out of luck there.
post #5372 of 12288
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beatlegeuse View Post


Unless I'm misunderstanding your question, just tell them to increase the rise on your next pair. If you want to increase the rise on the pants you already have, you're out of luck there.

 

I want to increase the rise of my next pair, not the one I have now, because that will be impossible. How much will they increase the rise? 

post #5373 of 12288
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingusberry View Post

I want to increase the rise of my next pair, not the one I have now, because that will be impossible. How much will they increase the rise? 
Replied to you on the Tailor fit thread. In general everything is too tight/small on your current pants and shirt.

Best bet is to send in or measure a shirts and pants that fit well. My guess is you don't own any and you sent in body measurements and asked for tight fit instead.

There's two ways of trying to correct this. One is post as much pictures here are possible and hope the experts here can eye ball how much more you need to add. To be honest, it might be 1" here 2" there, 4" somewhere else. And that's subjective to the fit taste of each member here.

The second and better bet if you don't have well fitting close to measure from, is to start with a baggier shirt and pants and get them pinned up proper by a tailor. Once they're pinned up to the fit that you like, you can remeasure the garments. I think a few members here did that (MrJester??)
Edited by smoothmoose - 9/30/13 at 1:12pm
post #5374 of 12288
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post

Could you please tell us or even show a picture of the buttonholes? How would you rate them?
Many thanks!
I posted one earlier, here. Imo they're great for a casual jacket like this. For a business suit, I'd probably want them a bit more refined.
post #5375 of 12288
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingusberry View Post

I want to increase the rise of my next pair, not the one I have now, because that will be impossible. How much will they increase the rise? 

They will increase the rise as much as you tell them to, just say "increase the rise by one inch" and they should increase the rise by one inch. It's up to you how much you want to change it. I haven't seen your pics but smoothmoose already gave a more detailed answer on that. Best of luck!
post #5376 of 12288
I'd like to discuss rise at this point.
I found a thread at AAAC which suggest what we are talking about is not the front/back rise but rather something tailors might call front and back length, while the rise is the outseam of the pants minus the inseam.
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?106322-A-question-for-a-tailor-re-rise&s=3fdd8dd1297be2d9f7d88567b6a41a82

If you have a look at the picture in post #14, the
front length is 9 to 10
back length is 24 to 21
outseam is 0 to 3
inseam is 1 to 3
and finally the rise would be 0 to 3 minus 1 to 3.

While I copied measurements from an existing pair of pants I liked, my Luxire chinos turned out with a rise too high for my liking.
Therefore I will specify all those four measurements for future orders instead of front rise, back rise and inseam as per Luxire's definition.
post #5377 of 12288
^^^ With other best practices, best practice for pants measurement is outlined on Luxire's webpage. http://luxire.com/pages/pant-measurements

Not sure why anybody should differ from that, even if some other tailors follow a different scheme. If different Luxire tailors follow a different scheme, that's a whole other issue...

Just glad I sent in my sample shirt and pants to measure. It adds a bit lto the wait and there was bit of a blackhole shipping from NJ to India, but overall, no need to fuss over these issues.
post #5378 of 12288
BTW, if the pants Luxire made for you differs in measurement significantly from your submitted measurements (as outline by their website), then I think you are justified to ask for a free remake.
post #5379 of 12288
Well, from what I have read at AAAC and SF it's not a "different scheme" those tailors use, but the standard amongst bespoke tailors.
The measurements my chinos came in did not differ significantly from what I requested, only the fit has also to do with how much the front and back rise as per Luxire's definition curves.
That's the reason I will include the outseam length as well, as it will be the needed measurement to exactly determine where the pants will sit on my torso.
Also it makes it easy for myself to compare my Luxire pants to other pants I possess.

Following a SF link to just a few more tailors who suggest to specify outseam and inseam to determine the correct height of the rise:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/281890/whats-the-proper-way-to-measure-a-pants-rise/0_100
post #5380 of 12288
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

Following a SF link to just a few more tailors who suggest to specify outseam and inseam to determine the correct height of the rise:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/281890/whats-the-proper-way-to-measure-a-pants-rise/0_100

But Luxire does ask for both outseam (Luxire calls it Pant length) and inseam meaasurements. So you didn't provide an outseam measurement in your previous order?
post #5381 of 12288
Indeed I didn't.
Seems I either have missed the measurement or it was not asked for back then.
So everything is fine and I can even put it into Luxire's form without it being a custom request.
Thanks for pointing out!
post #5382 of 12288
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clapeyron View Post

white cream twill chino.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




The fabric is more white than cream I'd say but they turned out exactly as I wanted. When in doubt order some cloth swatches.

Sadly though the pocket seams as well as the outer fly seam is not in a pick stitch but a regular machine stitch unlike on my first pair of these trousers.
Looks good overall. Can't tell from your pictures, but others have complained about this fabric being a bit transparent and being able to see your pocket linings through them?
 

 

Here are two additional pictures. The trousers are lined to the knee I believe that solved the transparency issue. However that makes them a little tricky to press. I may have to iron in the crease manually.

 

post #5383 of 12288
Are there even enough seat allowance for you to do squads?
post #5384 of 12288
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Are there even enough seat allowance for you to do squads?

"Do you even lift?"
post #5385 of 12288
Has there been any recent examples of jacket buttonholes? I believe the consensus on the early examples were that they needed improvement. I'm considering getting an unstructured wool navy blazer made up and the buttonholes are my only concern.
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