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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 314

post #4696 of 11652

Right. But from which order date? :-D

 

I believe Therese said work on mine is starting next week. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

 

I sent her a change list of all the items as to keep better track. 

post #4697 of 11652
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

Right. But from which order date? :-D

 

I believe Therese said work on mine is starting next week. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

 

I sent her a change list of all the items as to keep better track. 

Sadly but probably from the last one.. ;)

post #4698 of 11652
Quote:
Originally Posted by fridayfrenzy View Post

What fabric is this? 

 

NOBD - can you look up a handful of messages and let me know what fabric that was.

 

Thanks.

post #4699 of 11652
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

Does anyone know how to tack like the above picture? I'm redoing the hem on my pants and wanted to try to hand-shank the buttons and tack the pants, so I can keep the button.
I'm not a tailor, but I believe you basically sew through the fabric a couple times to create the tack, then 'embroider' it much in the same way you would a buttonhole, to reinforce. Like this: http://www.knitheaven.com/vintagepatterns/LWTB/LwTb/images/illus-031-full.png – basically around the thread, through the loop, pull tight. It's much like how a bartack on a tie is made.
post #4700 of 11652
Originally Posted by ammanati View Post

I ordered mine on July 15 and got them on Friday.

 

Good to know, thanks; I ordered mine a week later so I guess I haven't much longer to wait. smile.gif

post #4701 of 11652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spurious View Post

Thank you. I might have been misunderstood, but I was not going to decrease the waist any further on the shirt. I was talking about the pants.
I wasnt going to change the measurements on the shirt, but now that you two adviced me to, I think I will reconsider.

Any recommendations on how much to increase the hip measurements? Is half an inch enough?
I will check once I get the shirt back from dry cleaning and see if the issue is still there.

Thanks you two for the input.

No worries. It's a hard one to say without seeing the shirt in person, but you may have to play around with adding a bit more over the next few shirts to get it right. Don't do too much all at once, that being said half an inch won't make much difference, probably a full inch would be my recommendation and probably half an inch to the waist to balance it.

Looking at your image again on a large monitor, I can also see you have quite a curved lower back, so consider adding darts to help with cleaning it up. The darts should be purely used for shape, not for slimming. Some love them and some loathe them, but they do help shape the lower back when used effectively.
post #4702 of 11652
I agree with HC and meant to post earlier re. that shirt picture. It's too tight around the hips & waist.

EIther try darts, or do what I have been doing recently since I don't like darts which is to have a slightly smaller back waist/hip/chest measurement than front (basic principle is that you need a bit more fabric in the front than the back, while keeping the side seam centered, but only a little. For instance I think my shirts were at about 10.5" back waist, 11.25" front waist.
post #4703 of 11652
I highly recommend that everyone trying sitting & slouching in your shirts before deciding whether they fit.

If they pucker too much vertically (a little bit is to be expected), or split horizontally at all, along the placket, then this means they are too tight.

I imagine that the shirt posted earlier must have those problems.

I've learnt from a great deal of trial and error that it's impossible to achieve a perfectly slim fitting Ralph Lauren model-esque look while standing up/in profile (ie no bunched fabric at all), and still be at all comfortable while sitting down. There's always going to be some bunching at the hips/back, particularly if you wear low rise pants. High rise pants can alleviate the problem somewhat.

*edit referring to the pics in this post http://www.styleforum.net/t/304965/luxire-custom-clothing-official-affiliate-thread/4600_100#post_6539367
post #4704 of 11652
Quote:
Originally Posted by lachyzee View Post

I highly recommend that everyone trying sitting & slouching in your shirts before deciding whether they fit.

If they pucker too much vertically (a little bit is to be expected), or split horizontally at all, along the placket, then this means they are too tight.

I imagine that the shirt posted earlier must have those problems.

I've learnt from a great deal of trial and error that it's impossible to achieve a perfectly slim fitting Ralph Lauren model-esque look while standing up/in profile (ie no bunched fabric at all), and still be at all comfortable while sitting down. There's always going to be some bunching at the hips/back, particularly if you wear low rise pants. High rise pants can alleviate the problem somewhat.

Truth.
post #4705 of 11652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
No worries. It's a hard one to say without seeing the shirt in person, but you may have to play around with adding a bit more over the next few shirts to get it right. Don't do too much all at once, that being said half an inch won't make much difference, probably a full inch would be my recommendation and probably half an inch to the waist to balance it.

Looking at your image again on a large monitor, I can also see you have quite a curved lower back, so consider adding darts to help with cleaning it up. The darts should be purely used for shape, not for slimming. Some love them and some loathe them, but they do help shape the lower back when used effectively.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lachyzee View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I agree with HC and meant to post earlier re. that shirt picture. It's too tight around the hips & waist.

EIther try darts, or do what I have been doing recently since I don't like darts which is to have a slightly smaller back waist/hip/chest measurement than front (basic principle is that you need a bit more fabric in the front than the back, while keeping the side seam centered, but only a little. For instance I think my shirts were at about 10.5" back waist, 11.25" front waist.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lachyzee View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I highly recommend that everyone trying sitting & slouching in your shirts before deciding whether they fit.

If they pucker too much vertically (a little bit is to be expected), or split horizontally at all, along the placket, then this means they are too tight.

I imagine that the shirt posted earlier must have those problems.

I've learnt from a great deal of trial and error that it's impossible to achieve a perfectly slim fitting Ralph Lauren model-esque look while standing up/in profile (ie no bunched fabric at all), and still be at all comfortable while sitting down. There's always going to be some bunching at the hips/back, particularly if you wear low rise pants. High rise pants can alleviate the problem somewhat.

*edit referring to the pics in this post http://www.styleforum.net/t/304965/luxire-custom-clothing-official-affiliate-thread/4600_100#post_6539367

Thank you guys.
I will talk to Luxire to see what I need to do to implement the changes.
post #4706 of 11652
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7_rocket View Post

Since Luxire has stated that they can make peacoats, I wonder if they can make it the same weight and quality but not the same boxy shoulders as Sterlingwear. I really like my Sterlingwear but I sold it a while ago and now they prices have jumped to $300.

Just seeing this now, I'm sure Luxire can make it to whatever construction specs you'd like.  I believe Sterlingwear is currently using 24oz melton wool and synthetic blend whereas the historical standard was melton wool 32oz  and above (Buzz Rickson's reproduction uses 36oz melton wool).  I doubt given the nature of their business Luxire has established relationships with some of the heavyweight wool suppliers like HE Box, who I know offer navy cavalry twill in a 32oz weight, so CMT might be your best bet depending on how heavy you're looking to go.  I believe HE Box will sell directly to the customer.  If not (and if you actually want to go that heavy), perhaps you could solicit interest through the forum and ask Luxire to purchase the cloth for everyone to have made (by them of course) into pea coats.   

 

I doubt the all-in cost would be less than the $300 for a Sterlingwear coat but a better cloth and fit along with customization options make it worth it in my opinion.  My specs would be very similar to the navy TOJ coat below: horn buttons, reversible collar, slash handwarmer pockets, completely natural shoulder, and short side vents.

 

post #4707 of 11652
Of course, you'd be missing some of the beautiful ToJ leather in that repro...
post #4708 of 11652

I've never owned any ToJ but would like to.  I actually wanted to order this exact coat from them.  Sadly it was discontinued, and I didn't like the flap hip pockets on the new design.  The owner closed up shop to open a restaurant, right?  Also, I'm curious, other than the pockets, what else is made of leather in the ToJ version?  

post #4709 of 11652
Just ordered a pair of Dugdale light gray pants. First, I have to take off the pants I'm wearing and send them in. They are the cheapest pants I own, but fit great. If they can replicate them with a couple changes, I'll be thrilled.
post #4710 of 11652
For people who have sent in pants to be replicated, have they been satisfied?
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