Blue Gingham with monogrammed white gussets.
Recent Images In This Thread
- categoryBeach Pantstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- brandBespoke Englandtagged by SYSTEM, 8/19/12
- categoryCoats Jacketstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- itemDolce & Gabbana - MOLESKINE JACKETtagged by bbob2013, 11/10/13
- categoryDress Pantstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- categoryFull Length Jacketstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- categoryJacketstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- categoryMid Length Jacketstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- categoryPants Shortstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- categoryShirtstagged by SYSTEM, 8/19/12
Related Forum Threads
- Your workhorse Spring/Summer cotton/linen sport jacket Last post on 3/28/13 at 12:02pm in Classic Menswear
- Most common style mistakes Last post on 6/18/11 at 4:27pm in Classic Menswear
- ISAIA NAPOLI - SUPER HUGE MEGATHREAD - Suits, Sport Coats, Jackets, Pants, Ties, Hangers &... Last post on 11/13/13 at 7:07am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- Andrea Pompilio Mens Lemon Yellow Cotton Blend Blazer Size EU 46 (BRAND NEW WITH TAGS!!!!!) Last post on 4/10/13 at 7:55am in Marketplace
What Should I Ask My Groomsmen to Wear?
Last edited: 9/2/13
- How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?Last edited: 5/16/13
- Andrew Lock
- The Armoury
- Bespoke England
- Blacksmith Labs
- Blue Owl
- Carson Street Clothiers
- Conrad Wu
- Crane's Country Store
- David Reeves Bespoke
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Elite Suits
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- Foster & Son
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- Gordon Yao, Hong Kong
- Gramercy York
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Carter Neckwear
- Howard Yount
- Kent Wang
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- Moda Republic
- Modern Tailor
- Need Supply Co.
- Neo Nouveau
- Nice Laundry
- No Man Walks Alone
- Oak Street Bootmakers
- Passaggio Cravatte
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Roden Gray
- Saddleback Leather
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Taylor Stitch
- Temple of jawnz
- Uncle Otis
- United Stock Dry Goods
- Vastrm Fashion
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Wrong Weather
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 270
I have always wondered what they were good for and after a bit of research I was confirmed by Mr. Kabbaz that gussets were of no practical use.
"Gussets. This cute little "styling attribute" is used, literally, to cover up a lack of sewing skill. Notice in the rendering of the Individual Pattern how sharp the three curves are which comprise the transition from the bottom of the front hem to the bottom of the rear hem on each side of the shirt. The sewing 'foot' used to make the hem is called a "scroll foot". Its action is to roll under a small portion of fabric into a finished edge while placing a stitch designed to hold the rolled fabric in place. It is a very difficult foot to use and requires years of practice to master. Because the hem is hidden in the trousers, it is usually not considered one of the more important seams in the shirt. Therefore, in the mass-production prevalent in the majority of shirtmaking operations these days, this step is usually assigned to the lowest person on the totem pole. To eliminate this difficult curve, a different method of manufacture was designed. In the traditional method, the side seams of the shirt are sewn (closed) and then the hem is sewn. In the easier method, the hem is made and then the side seams are closed. Where they join together (side seam, front hem, and rear hem) there is something I can describe only as in incompatible, weak ... mess. Hence, the cute little "Gusset" which, when wrapped around this mess and stitched, not only does hide the mess, but also does really add strength. It is a strength which would not have been needed as it is inherent in the properly made (continuous hem thread) closure. It is a 'mess' which wouldn't need covering if it didn't exist. But, as the PR truthfully says, the Gusset really adds strength. Draw your own conclusion."
That one is mine with the monogrammed F. Luckily I got a couple orders in before they started charging for the monogram. I can't justify the extra charge unless it is a shirt I plan on wearing untucked, which is few and far between.
Have said this before, will repeat:
Modern shirts are hemmed in a single operation, starting at the button placket through to the button-hole placket. The stitch runs through the side seams, eliminating the need for gussets.
Traditional shirts, and shirts we make, are constructed in parts. Each panel is hemmed separately. They are then stitched together. That has a lot of distinct advantages in terms of comfort and fit. But, it leaves the side seam vulnerable to being pulled away if stress is added.They thus should be reinforced. We reinforce them using a hand-made tack, a traditional method. Gussets are another option to add strength to the traditionally made side seam.
Yes, will be 100% wool. Will try to keep them in the $100-$125 price range.
Production has not yet started. Still trying to fine-tune quality as will be woven with Luxire in the selvage.
Should take about 2 more months, but will be available, you can plan around it.
This is fantastic news - at that price range I'll be in for a few pairs at least (winter lasts a long damn time where I live, so flannels are much needed).
Please do make sure to have light and mid grey, as well as tan.
Luxire, any sense of how they'll compare to the Minnis Flannels currently offered in terms of fabric weight, feel and other characteristics? Also, will the flannels be worsted or woolen?
Excellent news, thank you. Looking forward to a few pair.
A lot of these answers are not known to us either, but, will be comparable in a lot of ways. There will be worsted and woolen options, hopefully.
Heavyweight 'winter white' cream flannel would be lovely. Just saying.
- Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread
Styles mentioned in this thread:
- › + + + DRIES VAN NOTEN + + + 19 seconds ago
- › The Watch Appreciation Thread 45 seconds ago
- › Viberg SERVICE BOOT COLOUR 8 CHROMEXCEL - sz 10 1 minute ago
- › Fake or Real (Authentic, Genuine, etc.) -- Official Thread 3 minutes ago
- › The Official Beer Thread 4 minutes ago
- › Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 4 minutes ago
- › Viberg Boots 4 minutes ago
- › The New Official Wolf vs. Goat Thread 5 minutes ago
- › Official Sales Alert thread 7 minutes ago
- › what are the disadvantages of cheap pocket squares? 7 minutes ago
- › Quoddy True Penny Loafer by ppith
- › Timberland Men's Authentics 3-Eye Classic Lug Boat Shoe by Basil Ecurie
- › Aero Leather Cafe' Racer by CafeRacer99
- › Alden Ravello Shell Long Wing Blucher by ppith
- › Sterlingwear Navigator Peacoat by ppith
- › Campbell Cooper Waxed Cotton Motorcycle Jacket by njhunt
- › J. Crew Rugged Classic Boots by Red Wing by _cameosis_
- › Loake Strand by wurger
- › Adidas x The Soloist Rod Laver Vin by BenMusch
- › Loake 1880 Aldwych by wurger
- › The Tyre-Kicker's Diary: Watch Boutiques... by mimo
- › Choosing Men's Designer Suits by LA Guy
- › San Francisco Shopping Map by j
- › Styleforum Product Reviewer Questionnaire and... by alyssaw
- › Styleforum Product Reviewer Terms of... by alyssaw
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Start your... by alyssaw
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Extras) by alyssaw
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Jeans &... by alyssaw
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Cardigans) by alyssaw
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Pullovers) by alyssaw