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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 270

post #4036 of 12725
Really like this feature. Ordered gussets on my last 3 shirts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by luxire View Post







Blue Gingham with monogrammed white gussets.
post #4037 of 12725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai View Post

Really like this feature. Ordered gussets on my last 3 shirts.

Ditto. Ordered gussets for my first shirt.
post #4038 of 12725
For what do you like gussets?
I have always wondered what they were good for and after a bit of research I was confirmed by Mr. Kabbaz that gussets were of no practical use.

"Gussets. This cute little "styling attribute" is used, literally, to cover up a lack of sewing skill. Notice in the rendering of the Individual Pattern how sharp the three curves are which comprise the transition from the bottom of the front hem to the bottom of the rear hem on each side of the shirt. The sewing 'foot' used to make the hem is called a "scroll foot". Its action is to roll under a small portion of fabric into a finished edge while placing a stitch designed to hold the rolled fabric in place. It is a very difficult foot to use and requires years of practice to master. Because the hem is hidden in the trousers, it is usually not considered one of the more important seams in the shirt. Therefore, in the mass-production prevalent in the majority of shirtmaking operations these days, this step is usually assigned to the lowest person on the totem pole. To eliminate this difficult curve, a different method of manufacture was designed. In the traditional method, the side seams of the shirt are sewn (closed) and then the hem is sewn. In the easier method, the hem is made and then the side seams are closed. Where they join together (side seam, front hem, and rear hem) there is something I can describe only as in incompatible, weak ... mess. Hence, the cute little "Gusset" which, when wrapped around this mess and stitched, not only does hide the mess, but also does really add strength. It is a strength which would not have been needed as it is inherent in the properly made (continuous hem thread) closure. It is a 'mess' which wouldn't need covering if it didn't exist. But, as the PR truthfully says, the Gusset really adds strength. Draw your own conclusion."
post #4039 of 12725

They can be cool. Thomas Pink has pink gussets as their trademark. You can get a monogram on them which I think may be the coolest place for one. 

post #4040 of 12725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai View Post

Really like this feature. Ordered gussets on my last 3 shirts.

 

That one is mine with the monogrammed F.  Luckily I got a couple orders in before they started charging for the monogram.  I can't justify the extra charge unless it is a shirt I plan on wearing untucked, which is few and far between.  

post #4041 of 12725

Order for trousers, placed! Can't wait for them. I don't have huge expectatives for this pair of trousers since I don't have one that fit me well, so it was kind of an experiment. But from there, the adjustements can be done. nod[1].gif

post #4042 of 12725
Thread Starter 

Have said this before, will repeat:

 

Modern shirts are hemmed in a single operation, starting at the button placket through to the button-hole placket. The stitch runs through the side seams, eliminating the need for gussets.

 

Traditional shirts, and shirts we make, are constructed in parts. Each panel is hemmed separately. They are then stitched together. That has a lot of distinct advantages in terms of comfort and fit. But, it leaves the side seam vulnerable to being pulled away if stress is added.They thus should be reinforced. We reinforce them using a hand-made tack, a traditional method. Gussets are another option to add strength to the traditionally made side seam.
 

post #4043 of 12725
Luxire, a month or so ago you were talking about expanded flannel choices for fall/winter. Any idea when those will be available? Will they be 100% wool? And do you know yet what the price range will be? Trying to plan out purchases for the rest of the year smile.gif
post #4044 of 12725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

Luxire, a month or so ago you were talking about expanded flannel choices for fall/winter. Any idea when those will be available? Will they be 100% wool? And do you know yet what the price range will be? Trying to plan out purchases for the rest of the year smile.gif

 

Yes, will be 100% wool. Will try to keep them in the $100-$125 price range.

Production has not yet started. Still trying to fine-tune quality as will be woven with Luxire in the selvage.

Should take about 2 more months, but will be available, you can plan around it.

post #4045 of 12725
Quote:
Originally Posted by luxire View Post

 

Yes, will be 100% wool. Will try to keep them in the $100-$125 price range.

Production has not yet started. Still trying to fine-tune quality as will be woven with Luxire in the selvage.

Should take about 2 more months, but will be available, you can plan around it.

 

This is fantastic news - at that price range I'll be in for a few pairs at least (winter lasts a long damn time where I live, so flannels are much needed).

Please do make sure to have light and mid grey, as well as tan.

post #4046 of 12725
Quote:
Originally Posted by luxire View Post

Yes, will be 100% wool. Will try to keep them in the $100-$125 price range.
Production has not yet started. Still trying to fine-tune quality as will be woven with Luxire in the selvage.
Should take about 2 more months, but will be available, you can plan around it.

Luxire, any sense of how they'll compare to the Minnis Flannels currently offered in terms of fabric weight, feel and other characteristics? Also, will the flannels be worsted or woolen?
post #4047 of 12725
Quote:
Originally Posted by luxire View Post

Yes, will be 100% wool. Will try to keep them in the $100-$125 price range.
Production has not yet started. Still trying to fine-tune quality as will be woven with Luxire in the selvage.
Should take about 2 more months, but will be available, you can plan around it.

Excellent news, thank you. Looking forward to a few pair.
post #4048 of 12725
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post


Luxire, any sense of how they'll compare to the Minnis Flannels currently offered in terms of fabric weight, feel and other characteristics? Also, will the flannels be worsted or woolen?


A lot of these answers are not known to us either, but, will be comparable in a lot of ways. There will be worsted and woolen options, hopefully.

post #4049 of 12725
Quote:
Originally Posted by luxire View Post

 

Yes, will be 100% wool. Will try to keep them in the $100-$125 price range.

Production has not yet started. Still trying to fine-tune quality as will be woven with Luxire in the selvage.

Should take about 2 more months, but will be available, you can plan around it.

 

Heavyweight 'winter white' cream flannel would be lovely. Just saying.

post #4050 of 12725
Quote:
Originally Posted by PtrckHmphrys View Post

Heavyweight 'winter white' cream flannel would be lovely. Just saying.

+1. For a 100% wool flannel in the $125 range, I'd definitely order a pair.
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