Blue Gingham with monogrammed white gussets.
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Styleforum Top Pickspost #4037 of 159297/25/13 at 10:29ampost #4038 of 159297/25/13 at 10:39amFor what do you like gussets?
I have always wondered what they were good for and after a bit of research I was confirmed by Mr. Kabbaz that gussets were of no practical use.
"Gussets. This cute little "styling attribute" is used, literally, to cover up a lack of sewing skill. Notice in the rendering of the Individual Pattern how sharp the three curves are which comprise the transition from the bottom of the front hem to the bottom of the rear hem on each side of the shirt. The sewing 'foot' used to make the hem is called a "scroll foot". Its action is to roll under a small portion of fabric into a finished edge while placing a stitch designed to hold the rolled fabric in place. It is a very difficult foot to use and requires years of practice to master. Because the hem is hidden in the trousers, it is usually not considered one of the more important seams in the shirt. Therefore, in the mass-production prevalent in the majority of shirtmaking operations these days, this step is usually assigned to the lowest person on the totem pole. To eliminate this difficult curve, a different method of manufacture was designed. In the traditional method, the side seams of the shirt are sewn (closed) and then the hem is sewn. In the easier method, the hem is made and then the side seams are closed. Where they join together (side seam, front hem, and rear hem) there is something I can describe only as in incompatible, weak ... mess. Hence, the cute little "Gusset" which, when wrapped around this mess and stitched, not only does hide the mess, but also does really add strength. It is a strength which would not have been needed as it is inherent in the properly made (continuous hem thread) closure. It is a 'mess' which wouldn't need covering if it didn't exist. But, as the PR truthfully says, the Gusset really adds strength. Draw your own conclusion."post #4039 of 159297/25/13 at 10:41ampost #4040 of 159297/25/13 at 10:43am
That one is mine with the monogrammed F. Luckily I got a couple orders in before they started charging for the monogram. I can't justify the extra charge unless it is a shirt I plan on wearing untucked, which is few and far between.post #4041 of 159297/25/13 at 10:49ampost #4042 of 159297/25/13 at 10:52amThread Starter
Have said this before, will repeat:
Modern shirts are hemmed in a single operation, starting at the button placket through to the button-hole placket. The stitch runs through the side seams, eliminating the need for gussets.
Traditional shirts, and shirts we make, are constructed in parts. Each panel is hemmed separately. They are then stitched together. That has a lot of distinct advantages in terms of comfort and fit. But, it leaves the side seam vulnerable to being pulled away if stress is added.They thus should be reinforced. We reinforce them using a hand-made tack, a traditional method. Gussets are another option to add strength to the traditionally made side seam.
post #4043 of 159297/25/13 at 10:55ampost #4044 of 159297/25/13 at 11:04amThread StarterQuote:
Yes, will be 100% wool. Will try to keep them in the $100-$125 price range.
Production has not yet started. Still trying to fine-tune quality as will be woven with Luxire in the selvage.
Should take about 2 more months, but will be available, you can plan around it.post #4045 of 159297/25/13 at 11:11amQuote:
This is fantastic news - at that price range I'll be in for a few pairs at least (winter lasts a long damn time where I live, so flannels are much needed).
Please do make sure to have light and mid grey, as well as tan.post #4046 of 159297/25/13 at 11:47amQuote:
Luxire, any sense of how they'll compare to the Minnis Flannels currently offered in terms of fabric weight, feel and other characteristics? Also, will the flannels be worsted or woolen?post #4047 of 159297/25/13 at 12:14pmQuote:
Excellent news, thank you. Looking forward to a few pair.post #4048 of 159297/25/13 at 12:17pmThread StarterQuote:
A lot of these answers are not known to us either, but, will be comparable in a lot of ways. There will be worsted and woolen options, hopefully.post #4049 of 159297/25/13 at 12:29pmQuote:
Heavyweight 'winter white' cream flannel would be lovely. Just saying.post #4050 of 159297/25/13 at 12:30pm
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