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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 247

post #3691 of 14474
Quote:
Originally Posted by aglose View Post

Last thing, for the contrasting button holes, you just put that in the comments?

Write it down, put the note in your safe, close safe.
post #3692 of 14474

I really don't think contrasting button holes look good

post #3693 of 14474
Quote:
Originally Posted by ammanati View Post

I really don't think contrasting button holes look good
The primary use of my shirts will be with a tie, thus covering the button holes most of the time. With contrasting holes I hope to add a more casual effect that I can wear out to a bar sans tie. I looked at a blue shirt with navy blue button holes and I liked it quite a bit.
post #3694 of 14474
Quote:
Originally Posted by PtrckHmphrys View Post

I have a question for anyone who wishes to respond: is there a standard depth/width for trouser pleats? I don't mean for Luxire trousers necessarily, but just for good tailoring in general. After surveying inspiration (internet pics) for my Luxire chino order, I feel as if I prefer the look of pleats that appear deeper and dislike those that appear shallower, but can't tell if that feeling is sheer nonsense and over-thinking, having had no experience with pleated trousers. However, entertaining this thought just a bit longer, it appears to me that the 'deeper' pleats I prefer are in the region of 0.5"+ whereas the 'shallower' pleats I dislike are approx. 0.25". The reason I prefer the deeper pleats is that they appear more substantial and continue the flow of the line through the centre crease, as pleats are supposed to, whereas the shallower pleats tend to lack this presence and just lay open and splayed.

 

To illustrate what I mean, I've pulled two examples, Kent Haste & Lachter on the left ('deep' pleats) and Luxire on the right ('shallow' pleats—no offense to original uploader or Luxire, it was the quickest example I could find):

 

 

The picture had to be small, unfortunately, but notice how the deeper pleats on the left (which look to be 0.5" if not 0.75") sit and flow much more proudly than the shallower ones (0.25" I'd say) on the right. Those on the left are also forward pleats, which some claim to sit nicer than reverse pleats, and are set into the waistband without the gap between as on the right picture, which may help things.

I don't have any answers, but as a photographer be very careful with these two comparisons. One is lit from the side (the one you like) while the other is flat lit from the front (with an on camera flash). The side-lit one heavily emphasizes the pleats. The front lit one does the opposite. I'm not saying your observations are incorrect, only pointing out the difference lighting makes.

post #3695 of 14474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post



Here's my standard BD from Luxire. You can click for a bigger picture. I felt it was good enough. I don't buy in to the crazy collar roll crap. I focus my thoughts elsewhere, as long as it's something good.

I love the NOBD collar. I'm sheepishly following NOBD on that collar for a few shirts.

BTW, with the above fabric is that standard weight or summer weight fabric? Doesn't seem to say on the Luxire website. I'm a sucker for gingham...

I assume this is the one: http://luxire.com/products/classic-twill-gingham-navy-green-ecru
post #3696 of 14474
Quote:
Originally Posted by PtrckHmphrys View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I have a question for anyone who wishes to respond: is there a standard depth/width for trouser pleats? I don't mean for Luxire trousers necessarily, but just for good tailoring in general. After surveying inspiration (internet pics) for my Luxire chino order, I feel as if I prefer the look of pleats that appear deeper and dislike those that appear shallower, but can't tell if that feeling is sheer nonsense and over-thinking, having had no experience with pleated trousers. However, entertaining this thought just a bit longer, it appears to me that the 'deeper' pleats I prefer are in the region of 0.5"+ whereas the 'shallower' pleats I dislike are approx. 0.25". The reason I prefer the deeper pleats is that they appear more substantial and continue the flow of the line through the centre crease, as pleats are supposed to, whereas the shallower pleats tend to lack this presence and just lay open and splayed.

To illustrate what I mean, I've pulled two examples, Kent Haste & Lachter on the left ('deep' pleats) and Luxire on the right ('shallow' pleats—no offense to original uploader or Luxire, it was the quickest example I could find):




The picture had to be small, unfortunately, but notice how the deeper pleats on the left (which look to be 0.5" if not 0.75") sit and flow much more proudly than the shallower ones (0.25" I'd say) on the right. Those on the left are also forward pleats, which some claim to sit nicer than reverse pleats, and are set into the waistband without the gap between as on the right picture, which may help things.
All my pleated pants (single forward) from Luxire are 3/4" deep. They're also all stitched down about 1.25" with a bar tack at the end, as I requested. My guess is that that causes the difference you point to, more than the depth or the direction of the pleats. I have pants done both ways, and I prefer the pleat to be stitched down as it looks and feels more trim. I may be wrong about this last part, but I also think it directs the fullness to where it's most needed: where the hip is widest and things lie in the pockets.
post #3697 of 14474

I'm hoping to receive answers fron the Luxire guys to place my second order this week. 

 

I will be trying with trousers for the first time. Some chinos. So if you guys have any recommendations for them, I'll be glad to hear (read) them. biggrin.gif

post #3698 of 14474
Quote:
Originally Posted by PtrckHmphrys View Post

I have a question for anyone who wishes to respond: is there a standard depth/width for trouser pleats? I don't mean for Luxire trousers necessarily, but just for good tailoring in general. After surveying inspiration (internet pics) for my Luxire chino order, I feel as if I prefer the look of pleats that appear deeper and dislike those that appear shallower, but can't tell if that feeling is sheer nonsense and over-thinking, having had no experience with pleated trousers. However, entertaining this thought just a bit longer, it appears to me that the 'deeper' pleats I prefer are in the region of 0.5"+ whereas the 'shallower' pleats I dislike are approx. 0.25". The reason I prefer the deeper pleats is that they appear more substantial and continue the flow of the line through the centre crease, as pleats are supposed to, whereas the shallower pleats tend to lack this presence and just lay open and splayed.

 

To illustrate what I mean, I've pulled two examples, Kent Haste & Lachter on the left ('deep' pleats) and Luxire on the right ('shallow' pleats—no offense to original uploader or Luxire, it was the quickest example I could find):

 

 

The picture had to be small, unfortunately, but notice how the deeper pleats on the left (which look to be 0.5" if not 0.75") sit and flow much more proudly than the shallower ones (0.25" I'd say) on the right. Those on the left are also forward pleats, which some claim to sit nicer than reverse pleats, and are set into the waistband without the gap between as on the right picture, which may help things.

Those are my pants and I like your idea on pleats.

post #3699 of 14474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

Any chance at some pink linen shades?

Also, I would love an extreme closeup on a hand-sewn buttonhole. foo.gif

FYI, something like this. 

 

 

The fabric is great but not a fan of the collar or fit, so I'd love if Luxire had something like this. And maybe some striped linen pink patterns and lighter shades.

post #3700 of 14474
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

I'm hoping to receive answers fron the Luxire guys to place my second order this week. 

I will be trying with trousers for the first time. Some chinos. So if you guys have any recommendations for them, I'll be glad to hear (read) them. biggrin.gif

Same here, will be placing my first order. Probably Blue Summer Chambray (not Sky Blue) shirt and some Navy Summer Chinos. Though the current discussion on pleated pants look great, I've never had great success with pleated pants due 1) my thick thighs and 2) being on the shorter side...
post #3701 of 14474
BTW, anybody have pictures with pants/trouser/chinos with Luxire house style frog pockets? I love frog pockets on suit pants/trousers. Wondering if I should order them for my chinos as well.
post #3702 of 14474
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fridayfrenzy View Post

 

Just wondering if you were able to find out if the swim trunks were a possibility.  I am very interested in the style pictured above.


Yes, just awaiting delivery of the mesh and then we can start taking test orders.

post #3703 of 14474

Just got two of my NOBD collar Luxires. You're the king.. calling you "King Nobody."

 

 

 

 

It's quite difficult to show the great collar and shirts with my tablet camera. Soon, a real camera. I know I keep saying it.

post #3704 of 14474

 

The Luxire shirt family. With five more on the way being altered. Two new ones unironed.

post #3705 of 14474
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

FYI, something like this. 

 

 

The fabric is great but not a fan of the collar or fit, so I'd love if Luxire had something like this. And maybe some striped linen pink patterns and lighter shades.

 

Pink Linen Cotton, very similar to this is on its way, should arrive this week. Baby pink hopefully next week.

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