Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

[SlimDave]

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[daDudeson]

Hello everybody,

I had a friend's Ralph Lauren popover shirt (size M) replicated by Luxire and am exceptionally happy with the result

As a fabric I chose 'Navy University Stripes Oxford' and I made absolutely no changes to the measurements, just sent in the original.

Ordinarily I wear my shirts a lot slimmer. But since the popover is very casual and I mainly intend to wear it on warm summer days, or at the beach etc. I left it this way.
Also keep in mind, if the fit is too slim, you won't be able to put it on anymore.

If I were to order another one, I'd change the following:
- reduce cuff width. I forgot about that and now have the same width as on the RL shirt. (doesn't really matter since I'll probably always have them rolled up)
- order a split yoke. (The RL shirt did not have one either, but it would be nice for the pattern mainly)

Since Luxire did not have the same thick herringbone like fabric for the front placket, I told them to use the same (rather thick) twill they used for the collar and am very pleased. I actually think it is nicer and might tell them not to use that tape of whatever around the collar band next time.
Also, the collar is sort of a one piece design.
Collar and cuffs are unfused and lightly lined.

Order Nr. 7714 (specify the popover, as I ordered several items)

 

[moopband]

Does anyone have a picture of the Navy Twill Chinos made?

These: http://custom.luxire.com/products/navy-twill-chino

 

[vogs]

I think this shirt fits better in the chest than your Luxire shirts. Not sure from the photo whether I'd make the chest much smaller than that. Agree that the waist should be slimmed down. The armholes and sleeves can be slimmed as well. I'd consider narrowing the yoke slightly but not much. Would you be able to share your chest and waist (body) size and the chest/waist measurements from the shirts you've posted?

Darts can really help shape the lower back by adding curvature, which is not the same thing as decreasing the waist or back waist measurement.

Ordered:
Neck: 15.25
Sleeve: 34.75
Chest: Front 20.5"; Back 19,5"
Waist: Front 18.5", Back 15.25"
Chest: 20.00
Waist: 16.50
Bottom: 18.50
Biceps: 7.25
Length: 30.50

Body Measurements:
Chest under the armpits: 37
Middle Chest: 35
Lower Chest: 32.5
Waist: 30

Yeah, I'll try to order a bit wider shirt and let it slim down by my tailor.

What did you mean with increase the back hem (sorry but as I'm not from the US, I'm not common with this definition, thanks!)?

 

[tuluba]

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[breakaway01]

Ordered:
Neck: 15.25
Sleeve: 34.75
Chest: Front 20.5"; Back 19,5"
Waist: Front 18.5", Back 15.25"
Chest: 20.00
Waist: 16.50
Bottom: 18.50
Biceps: 7.25
Length: 30.50

Body Measurements:
Chest under the armpits: 37
Middle Chest: 35
Lower Chest: 32.5
Waist: 30

Yeah, I'll try to order a bit wider shirt and let it slim down by my tailor.

Your shirt is only 3" larger in the chest and waist than your body measurement--this is very snug.

 

[zengy]

I'm a silent reader for a while now and just received my first shirt from Luxire. Overall I'm quite happy with the result. Nonetheless, I'd like to improve the measurements going forward. Personally, I think the shirt is too tight at the chest and bottom.

1. How can I get rid of the shoulder crease (that you can see in the red box) (without making the chest measurement smaller)?
2. How can I get the back cleaner (I don't like darts)?

General fit advice is also very much appreciated.

Many Thanks in advance!

1. The shoulder width is rather big. If you take an inch, I'm sure you would decrease the excess fabric.
2. I would probably take an inch or so from the back chest and waist and transfer it to the front, and then see how that turns out. Don't just take an inch from the back, though, as the chest will become to tight. Edit: By this you would also give yourself a little more space in the chest, which is a little tight as it is now.

 

[zengy]

Your shirt is only 3" larger in the chest and waist than your body measurement--this is very snug.

You can't generalize like that when talking body measurements.

Edit: My shirts have app. a 22" chest and a 19.5" waist. No problem.

 

[breakaway01]

You can't generalize like that when talking body measurements.

Edit: My shirts have app. a 22" chest and a 19.5" waist. No problem.

I think you might be misunderstanding me. I don't mean the difference between your chest and waist body measurements. Of course that varies enormously from person to person. I mean the difference between the shirt's chest circumference (in the OP's case, 40") and his actual chest body measurement (37") which is 3". Did you follow the link that I posted?

 

[daDudeson]

Does anyone have a picture of the Navy Twill Chinos made?

These: http://custom.luxire.com/products/navy-twill-chino

Hi,

I ordered the 'Navy Summer Light Chino' which ways 160g instead of 250g and for all intents and purposes is the same I guess.

To be completely honest, I think I actually received the Navy Twill Chino instead of the summer light, but didn't bother confirming or complaining since it was
a) my first pair of Luxire trousers, so kind of an experiment and
b) winter is just around the corner

http://custom.luxire.com/collections/pants/products/navy-light-chino

Might as well make a short review of sorts:

Order Nr. 7758

Navy Summer Light Chino (possibly Navy Twill Chino) either way, I paid 89$
No pleats, zippered fly, standard waistband with metal side adjusters on the seam and not on the waistband itself.
2" cuffs, hand stitched with buttons to open them up (I did not ask for this, but received it in my second pair as well. Thank you Luxire

)

I took trouser measurements from 5 or 6 different similarly fitting trousers that I own and used the average out of them.
Turnaround time was insanely fast, something like 12 days. The fit was overall a little baggy and not spectacular if you're pursuing SF standards, but at the same time better than I had expected.
Quality wise I am very, very impressed with Luxires trousers, in fact my second pair arrived yesterday and is already quite an improvement. I am pretty certain that Luxire will be the only place I buy trousers from in future, because this usually presents quite a problem for me.


Here are the trousers in action - NOTE: trousers were slightly altered locally before these pictures were taken!








I only had the waist tightened and some excess fabric removed from the middle seam that runs down the buttocks in between the back pockets.
Doing more alterations was not really worth the money. But I pinned the trousers (prior to altering them) and sent Theresa the pictures via email, so she could adjust my trouser pattern for my second pair.
Though the adjustments were made and the second pair (Brown Duck Canvas, 99$) does fit better, they still aren't perfect. I need to get rid of the creases bellow the buttocks and perhaps some excess fabric along the side seams. Also I went with pleats for the first time and am not quite sure if something has to be done there. perhaps deeper pleats.

Here you can see the areas that had too much fabric and needed some trimming:
- Waistband and the seam down along the middle of the buttocks
- Sideseam (only the back trouser panel, not the front one)
- creases below the buttocks. Improved on second pair, but not fixed.

 

[daDudeson]

While I'm at it, I might as well throw in the second pair of trousers that I received on Monday (sorry, not Tuesday as stated above).

Order Nr. 7962 'Brown Duck Canvas' - Style copied by one of @EFV 's previous orders.

Apart from the fit alterations Luxire made to my trouser pattern, I had the following changed:

- increased rise by 1"
- shortened legs by 0.5"
- added 1 reverse pleat and suspender buttons

And of course some style changes.
In the pictures above it does not seem like shortening the legs was necessary, but it was. I believe the Navy Chinos shrunk a bit with the first wash, but cannot be sure.

It's a little tough to judge fit and drape with these trousers because the canvas fabric is so incredibly thick/ stiff/ heavy.
I hope I'll still be able to get it right on the third try.


My ideas are below, I'm glad to hear whatever suggestions you may have

- trim yet another centimetre of fabric along the side seams from the back trouser panel (note that I left the adjusters uncinched for the photos. If I tightened them the way I would for regular wear, the fabric here would become more noticeable)
- trim more fabric along the horizontal line below the buttocks where the creasing is most noticeable and unsightly
- perhaps make the pleats a little deeper? I'm not sure, how deep should pleats be? These are 18mm / 0.7"

Edit: Pardon me for commandeering page 808

 

[Monkeyface]

While I'm at it, I might as well throw in the second pair of trousers that I received on Monday (sorry, not Tuesday as stated above).

Order Nr. 7962 'Brown Duck Canvas' - Style copied by one of @EFV 's previous orders.

Apart from the fit alterations Luxire made to my trouser pattern, I had the following changed:

- increased rise by 1"
- shortened legs by 0.5"
- added 1 reverse pleat and suspender buttons

And of course some style changes.
In the pictures above it does not seem like shortening the legs was necessary, but it was. I believe the Navy Chinos shrunk a bit with the first wash, but cannot be sure.

It's a little tough to judge fit and drape with these trousers because the canvas fabric is so incredibly thick/ stiff/ heavy.
I hope I'll still be able to get it right on the third try.


My ideas are below, I'm glad to hear whatever suggestions you may have

- trim yet another centimetre of fabric along the side seams from the back trouser panel (note that I left the adjusters uncinched for the photos. If I tightened them the way I would for regular wear, the fabric here would become more noticeable)
- trim more fabric along the horizontal line below the buttocks where the creasing is most noticeable and unsightly
- perhaps make the pleats a little deeper? I'm not sure, how deep should pleats be? These are 18mm / 0.7"

Edit: Pardon me for commandeering page 808

I'd make your trousers slightly wider throughout the leg, but apart from that you should look into the curve of the seat. Adjusting the curve and the rear fork would probably solve those issues, along with taking away some of the excess fabric. You could try taking them to a local tailor, have him make the adjustments, and report those to Luxire. That's what worked for me, except I made my own adjustments by reshaping the seat, as I didn't have access to a tailor back then.

 

[SeaJen]

Looks like the trouser pattern problem that everyone had a while ago and had been fixed. Apparently not, which is a shame as I was planning to order some pants myself soon.

 

[Monkeyface]

Looks like the trouser pattern problem that everyone had a while ago and had been fixed. Apparently not, which is a shame as I was planning to order some pants myself soon.

No, I think this is an individual problem. It has been fixed for my trousers.

 

[scrolls]

+1. My most recent trousers were perfect. Have another pair on the way.