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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 1567

post #23491 of 24668
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonSolomon View Post

Hey there guys, I am an avid reader of this thread (and customer of Luxire) and I just wanted to share my experience with getting a suit made with Luxire so far.

 
I was hoping to get some feedback/constructive criticism from others on here before I progress on with my proper suit order (the below is a trial).

 
So I have been using Luxire for shirts and trousers for some time now and have found it fantastic. As such I wanted to have a crack at having a suit made. Like a few on here have mentioned I think my trouser size works great, but it is hard finding good jackets so I wanted to see how Luxire went about it (planning to get more suits in the future if it works well).

 
I sent in a jacket I have from Beams Plus which I believe fits be quite well and was the sort of thing I am looking for (3 roll 2 and patch pockets etc.). The main alteration was having the buttons in the right place (as I had the jacket sleeves let down). They managed to do this on the first trial jacket, but not the second for some reason, which is a shame.

 
I ordered a trial jacket and trousers in the military olive canvas. With hindsight this was not the best choice as it has a slight viscose-y feel to it. I am hoping this might reduce after having it dry-cleaned.

 
Luxire said that they were not happy with the jacket and so produced me another in a chino fabric - which was very kind of them! So in the end I ended up with two jackets, not bad!

 
All in all the process took a couple of months, which is longer than my usual orders, but to be expected considering the more complicated nature of creating a jacket.

 
Disclaimer - all pictures below are straight out of the box.

 
First pictures are off the Beams jacket I sent in for replication (including older shirt and trousers from Luxire). The second lot of pictures are of the trial jacket in the Chino material. The last pictures are of the trial suit in the Military Olive Canvas.

 
I have had some issues with the pleats on the trousers. This time round I asked them to extend them and make them more 'closed' because they always seem quite open and not neat - not sure how to resolve this issue?


I think they did a decent job on the jackets, although although the roll and the shoulders could use some work.

 
As I said above all comments are welcome. My final suit order was planned to be with the Brisbane Moss Canvas, but now I am thinking that a VBC fabric may come out better. I thought this post also might be of interest to some considering the upcoming suit offer Luxire are proposing.

 
Cheers,


Tomas 

Find pictures below - spoilered for ease of reading.

 


I won't comment on fit because obviously when you do something like this mail order (in particular "copying" jackets) it will take some back and forth to get it right.

But stylistically, I would drop the buttoning point at least an inch, I would drop the gorge least an inch. You have very sloped shoulders (many do) and I know that the popular thing is the soft shoulder/no padding look, but when your shoulders are the way yours are and you put on a jacket like the green one, it makes you look like you have a bobble head (regardless of size of your head) or like your shoulders are frowning frown.gif The high gorge accentuates the sloped shoulders even more and makes it look like the lapels start almost behind you head. Padding/wadding/canvassing can be used where you still have a "soft" jacket but a bit straighter shoulders. If your shirt collars are typically that tall, you will need a taller sportcoat collar. If you like the very slim sleeves of the jacket, you will need slimmer legs on your pants (and slightly longer, they will shrink/bunch up a bit). I would go for a longer jacket, especially since its cotton, but that's personal preference. The pleat issue/pant issue, just send the pics to Luxurie, I am sure they can take care of it. Also on the jacket, the left patch pocket looks ike it was set a bit lopsided (may be a picture artifact, but its in both pics). I know its a casual outfit, but just something to consider.
post #23492 of 24668
Quote:
Originally Posted by luxire View Post

The first Luxire bespoke jacket in the wild.

We are still working on refining some parameters but looks like a good start. Do share thoughts.


I'm not a tailor. I've also tried to not comment on anything that's a stylistic rather than technical matter.

To my eyes you have too much ease through the upper front of the coat, leading to it puffing out above the buttoning point. This is worst where the pocket square accentuates it, but can be seen on the wearer's right hand side too.

Conversely the skirts are cut quite trim, which exacerbates the effect of a jacket which looks too top heavy.

The shoulders and sleevehead look clean though (shoulder profile / slope assumed to be a stylistic preference) so with a bit of cleaning up and a press to get those wrinkles out of the (cotton or linen blend?) sleeves it will start to look sharp.
post #23493 of 24668
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonC View Post


I'm not a tailor. I've also tried to not comment on anything that's a stylistic rather than technical matter.

To my eyes you have too much ease through the upper front of the coat, leading to it puffing out above the buttoning point. This is worst where the pocket square accentuates it, but can be seen on the wearer's right hand side too.

Conversely the skirts are cut quite trim, which exacerbates the effect of a jacket which looks too top heavy.

The shoulders and sleevehead look clean though (shoulder profile / slope assumed to be a stylistic preference) so with a bit of cleaning up and a press to get those wrinkles out of the (cotton or linen blend?) sleeves it will start to look sharp.

 

Thanks! The jacket is linen.

 

The person we are working on is a bit hard to fit. The puff on the chest is due to the shape of body. We chose to keep the padding to minimal.

 

The next iteration is being done in wool.  Will post images hopefully in a week.

post #23494 of 24668

It's tough to tell from one angled picture, but I agree with SimonC-- the body of/in the jacket looks unbalanced and top heavy. It looks like the body could have used some kind of structuring, be let out some at top botton, or perhaps a heavier fabric in order to smooth out the bulging going on, which is not complementary to the physique. Otherwise it looks ok.

post #23495 of 24668
Thread Starter 

Front view: The cuffs were kept slightly longer as linen tends to hold crease and creased sleeve may appear short. It seems we overdid it. Will have it corrected on this jacket too.

 

BTW, shirt, pants, shoes, tie, pocket square are all Luxire too.

 

post #23496 of 24668

Quick review, with poor photos, but: just received my latest order

 

Pale Blue Poplin 2/100

 

Nice cloth, and I think my favourite collar so far, the Barba style (having tried NOBD II, English spread and Broke&Bespoke). I'll need to wash it to be sure, but I think this could be my perfect shirt.


Black White Graph Checks

 

Looks good. They are, as noted previously, navy, not black checks.

 

Army Khaki Twill Chino

 

I had hoped for something a touch darker, this cloth has a bit of an identity crisis between beige and khaki, but very happy with the fit and the cloth itself. So much more comfortable than my low rise gap chinos, I'm just breaking them in today.

 

Wool Rich Grey Pants

 

This has been said to death but yes, fantastic. I went unlined for these and the chinos, and very glad I did. They will happily do 3.5 seasons here, with heavy flannel covering the other 6 weeks.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

post #23497 of 24668

I'm little bit curious how waistband (in relation to front and back rise of pants) is supposed to fit. As you can see in photo below there is an angle between front and back part of waistband.

 

And my question is - is waistband at angle proper fit? Or waistband should be horizontal to the ground (like red line in the photo)? Or is there any other variable/reason to consider?

 

post #23498 of 24668
That's down to both personal choice and the actual angle of your hips. Suspenders would help prevent the front from sliding down and crumpling if you had particularly angled hips.
post #23499 of 24668
Luxire's default seems to be a larger front to back angle than many makers, from the pictures I've seen. If you don't like it, it's a fairly easy fix, although it will affect the drape.
post #23500 of 24668
Nice trousers, what fabric you used?
post #23501 of 24668
Quote:
Originally Posted by hookem12387 View Post

Luxire's default seems to be a larger front to back angle than many makers, from the pictures I've seen. If you don't like it, it's a fairly easy fix, although it will affect the drape.

Surely this depends on the measurements you give them? For me, I use a pattern which does specifically have a higher back vs. front rise:

post #23502 of 24668
Couple of new shirts arrived
All 3 NOBDII Collars
1dc5ff8baf56cdcb2a7e205ac5e552c2.jpg
Sic-Tess stripe is luxurious
Blue Dress Seersucker stripe
Vista Blue Dress Stripe is fantastic as many have said


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
post #23503 of 24668

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeroen Vriend View Post

Nice trousers, what fabric you used?
 
Cream chinos.
 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by hookem12387 View Post

Luxire's default seems to be a larger front to back angle than many makers, from the pictures I've seen. If you don't like it, it's a fairly easy fix, although it will affect the drape.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonC View Post


Surely this depends on the measurements you give them? For me, I use a pattern which does specifically have a higher back vs. front rise:
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadAngle View Post

That's down to both personal choice and the actual angle of your hips. Suspenders would help prevent the front from sliding down and crumpling if you had particularly angled hips.

 

Thanks for answers! I understand I can easily change this by increasing the front rise, but as I said I'm just curious about how it should be. Are there any benefits when the waistband is horizontal? Or it's just a purely aesthetic choice?

 

@hookem12387 why exactly it will affect the drape?

post #23504 of 24668
@Quesjac

Very nice! Is the Barba collar the same as the Spandexter collar? How do you find it compares to NOBD II? I'm readying for another order, and I haven't quite homed in on my ideal collar yet. Thanks.
post #23505 of 24668
Quote:
Originally Posted by Psmith View Post

@Quesjac

Very nice! Is the Barba collar the same as the Spandexter collar? How do you find it compares to NOBD II? I'm readying for another order, and I haven't quite homed in on my ideal collar yet. Thanks.

I think it is, yes. In my order I mentioned the Spandexter entry in the spreadsheet, although that sheet is not 100% clear to me. I like the curve from the top button towards the collar points. But I've not worn it yet; if you ask in about a week I can let you know. I think there are also some photos of it being worn earlier in the thread.

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