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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 1389

post #20821 of 24617
Quote:
 

I'm not sure what alterations to ask for, but I'm considering one of the following two routes:

 

I think that both routes would improve fit, it just depends how gradually you want to move to a better fit.  If there are a lot of potential alterations, I would suggest getting a part of trial pants as a way of improving the fit without having to spend for a nicer fabric and then not be completely satisfied with the results.

 

In regards to your comments.  I don't think that decreasing the hip measurement would affect the issue with the "wedgie" since that measurement is taken higher than the  seat.  It may make the pants a little tighter across the rear, though (different that the wedgie issue).

 

Increasing the back rise at the seam will go a long way to fix the "wedgie", but you should probably also reduce the inseam by 0.25.  This will make the very bottom of the crotch seam (where front and back rise meet) sit a little lower (it won't affect the overall length of the pants as long as the outseam remains the same).  Scooping out the seat help mainly with getting rid of any loose fabric behind the thighs (just below the buttocks).  That doesn't seem to be that big of a problem in your case so 0.25" might be enough.

post #20822 of 24617
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyTre View Post
 

I think that both routes would improve fit, it just depends how gradually you want to move to a better fit.  If there are a lot of potential alterations, I would suggest getting a part of trial pants as a way of improving the fit without having to spend for a nicer fabric and then not be completely satisfied with the results.

 

In regards to your comments.  I don't think that decreasing the hip measurement (1) would affect the issue with the "wedgie" since that measurement is taken higher than the  seat.  It may make the pants a little tighter across the rear, though (different that the wedgie issue).

 

Increasing the back rise at the seam will go a long way to fix the "wedgie" (2), but you should probably also reduce the inseam by 0.25 (3).  This will make the very bottom of the crotch seam (where front and back rise meet) sit a little lower (it won't affect the overall length of the pants as long as the outseam remains the same).  Scooping out the seat help mainly with getting rid of any loose fabric behind the thighs (4) (just below the buttocks).  That doesn't seem to be that big of a problem in your case so 0.25" might be enough.

 

Thank you very much, this is extremely helpful. A couple of questions regarding your suggestions above, if you don't mind.

 

1) If you take a look at the front picture, you can see a vertical line to the left of the crotch. I believe this is excess fabric, so I intend to decrease the front hip measurement at least. I'm thinking either 0,25" or 0,5".

 

2) That's exactly what I want to achieve. I think by fixing the "wedgie", the trousers should fall unrestricted/straighter from the hips down instead of "cupping" the butt cheeks? In that case, do you think an increase by 0,25" would be sufficient? I've never done this alteration, so I'm not sure how much effect an incremental change (0,25") will have.

 

3) Not sure I understand this part correctly. The inseam is 30,25" as of now. I intend to ask for a slanted/military hem instead (30" front and 30,75" back). I'm suspecting this isn't the same thing as what you're suggesting?

 

4) Thank you for clearing that out.

 

Thank you once again for your input.

post #20823 of 24617
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post
 

1) If you take a look at the front picture, you can see a vertical line to the left of the crotch. I believe this is excess fabric, so I intend to decrease the front hip measurement at least. I'm thinking either 0,25" or 0,5".

 

2) That's exactly what I want to achieve. I think by fixing the "wedgie", the trousers should fall unrestricted/straighter from the hips down instead of "cupping" the butt cheeks? In that case, do you think an increase by 0,25" would be sufficient? I've never done this alteration, so I'm not sure how much effect an incremental change (0,25") will have.

 

3) Not sure I understand this part correctly. The inseam is 30,25" as of now. I intend to ask for a slanted/military hem instead (30" front and 30,75" back). I'm suspecting this isn't the same thing as what you're suggesting?

 

4) Thank you for clearing that out.

 

Thank you once again for your input.

1. I saw that sagging, but I'm not sure if altering the hip measurement would be the solution since the fit in the rear looks OK.  If you reduce the hip measurement you would be reducing the same amount of circumference both across the back and the front so, while it may make the sagging go away in the front, it may make the back too tight.  I would send a picture to Luxire and ask them specifically how to fix this.  It is a more "advanced" alteration and I don't really have the language to explain it. 

 

2. and 3.  Adding to the back rise at bottom and scooping out the seat will not fix the problem entirely.  Decreasing the inseam (at the top of the pants, not at the hem) will also help because it will lower the crotch.  If you think of the crotch as a "U" shape, adding to the rear rise makes that "U" wider, but it won't necessarily make it sit lower.  That is what the inseam adjustment is for.

post #20824 of 24617
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyTre View Post
 

1. I saw that sagging, but I'm not sure if altering the hip measurement would be the solution since the fit in the rear looks OK.  If you reduce the hip measurement you would be reducing the same amount of circumference both across the back and the front so, while it may make the sagging go away in the front, it may make the back too tight.  I would send a picture to Luxire and ask them specifically how to fix this.  It is a more "advanced" alteration and I don't really have the language to explain it. 

 

2. and 3.  Adding to the back rise at bottom and scooping out the seat will not fix the problem entirely.  Decreasing the inseam (at the top of the pants, not at the hem) will also help because it will lower the crotch.  If you think of the crotch as a "U" shape, adding to the rear rise makes that "U" wider, but it won't necessarily make it sit lower.  That is what the inseam adjustment is for.


Once again, thank you for your response.

 

1) I'm aware of that. Even though the circumference will be affected, I don't think the rear will become tighter if I decrease the front hip width by 0,25" since it will only remove some of the sagging at the front. But I'll make sure to discuss this with Luxire.

 

2/3) I get you. I just took a look at the order of this particular pair in the pictures, and I can see that I asked for a lower inseam at crotch by 0,25" + increased back rise at crotch by 0,25" + scooping out the back seat by 0,50". I think the same alterations will be a good place to start. Just not sure by how much each.

 

Thank you for your help.

post #20825 of 24617
Can any of yall recommend a good khaki twill for workwear/military-style chinos?
post #20826 of 24617

I ordered my first shirt and a pair of pants a 3-4 weeks ago and expect to go through a few iterations to nail down the measurements/fit.

 

How long does it usually take from ordering before a shirt and a pair of pants ship? I guess Christmas period might increase the wait.

post #20827 of 24617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melchiades View Post
 

I ordered my first shirt and a pair of pants a 3-4 weeks ago and expect to go through a few iterations to nail down the measurements/fit.

 

How long does it usually take from ordering before a shirt and a pair of pants ship? I guess Christmas period might increase the wait.

 

Under normal conditions, I'd say probably 4-5 weeks maybe. But...

 

-It's high peak season and they recently had a promo.

-First time orders usually require extra time since they have to make your exact pattern from scratch.

-Pants typically take 4 weeks while shirts have been around 2-3 weeks.

 

However once your nail down your measurements it becomes a faster.

post #20828 of 24617
Quote:
I think the same alterations will be a good place to start. Just not sure by how much each.

That is usually the tricky part.  Luxire has been very good at giving me the right kind of feedback in terms of alterations, but they tend to be a bit conservative so usually it takes 2 or 3 tries to get things right.  I think in general this is a good policy since the pants might be less wearable if you go too far with a particular alteration so they prefer going by smaller increments.  It is also probably difficult to determine the exact amount without seeing the garment in person.

 

In any case, if you want to be a little more aggressive with the changes and you don't want to risk doing it with an expensive fabric, I think the way to go would be to get one or two of the trial pants.

post #20829 of 24617
Just got this Luxire leather, and I have to say I am really quite pleased with it. Great work by Luxire


post #20830 of 24617

^^^ Impressive!  How do you judge the quality of the leather used? 

post #20831 of 24617
Sweet jacket. Extra props for being an Arsenal fan too.
post #20832 of 24617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cityplace View Post

^^^ Impressive!  How do you judge the quality of the leather used? 

Would say it's very similar in quality to TOJ leather, maybe a bit thicker than TOJ.
post #20833 of 24617
Thread Starter 

More Albini fabrics added, some with stretch for added comfort and for people who like to wear really slim shirts

 

post #20834 of 24617
My most recent order came in today...



Left to right: Blue denim slubby chambray, classic blue oxford, Albini: end on end sky blue

I had hoped the blue denim and blue oxford were a bit more saturated/blue. The real star was the Albini end on end. It's a brilliant fabric and I would consider getting two or three more. My pictures don't capture it well enough.




post #20835 of 24617

Hi,

 

I have had two ordering iterations for formal shirts and am already quite happy with the fit.

 

Fabric wise, however, I find the Lustrous Fine White to be too prone to wrinkling (e.g. sleeves). And from what I saw searching the forum, I am not alone. After trying it on for about 15 minutes it was as wrinkled as some of my other shirts after a day at the office.

 

What fabrics have you used for formal shirts in the past (blue, white), what are your experiences and recommendations? 

 

Thanks!

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