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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 1388

post #20806 of 24691
Yeah its one thing to, quite rightly, want to flaunt the results of some hard work in the gym. But that silhouette looks very feminine. And can't possibly be comfortable sitting down.

I'd add at least one inch to half waist and half an inch to half chest.

Your drop is such that you may well need darts I think.
post #20807 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyTre View Post
 

Welcome, Tom.

 

I don't have as pronounced as drop from chest to waist as you do, but I did have some similar problems with sloping shoulders, like you do. When I sent picture to Luxire, they recommended different adjustments for shoulder slow in the front and in the back.  It seems that your back would require a larger adjustment than the front.  Send the pictures to Luxire and they will certainly give you good suggestions.

 

I've also notices a couple of other things.  The first one is that the yoke of the shirt seems to sti too high across your back, probably also a consequence of the sloping shoulders.  I think it should be  brought down a bit, which may also end up requiring an adjustment in regards to the horizontal length.  Mention this to Luxire when you send the pictures to them and see what they suggest.

 

The second one is more an issue of taste/style.  Technically, the shirt is not overly tight, but the fabric is so close to the body that it does not give you any room to move without pulling.  I would recommend adding at least (depending your taste of how silm you like shirts) 0.25" so that the fabric can drape a little more easily, especially around the upper arms and at the chest. 

 

Thank you for your feedback.

 

I already send the pictures to Luxire and they didnt recommend different adjustments for front and back. Luxire only advised to increase the armhole. 

I will aks again mentioning your advice concerning the shoulder slope and the position of the yoke.

 

Shirt is definitely too tight and I will increase the chest, waist, armhole. Nevertheless I have the feeling that the restrictions are mainly causes by the armhole area, but iI am not an expert.

post #20808 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by lachyzee View Post

Yeah its one thing to, quite rightly, want to flaunt the results of some hard work in the gym. But that silhouette looks very feminine. And can't possibly be comfortable sitting down.

I'd add at least one inch to half waist and half an inch to half chest.

Your drop is such that you may well need darts I think.


Thank you.

 

Do you think it looks feminine becuase of the small waist?

Shirt is too tight at the back, armhole. I will add chest, waist and armhole.

 

Will the darts have an influence on the waist size of the shirt?

post #20809 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom1984 View Post
 


Thank you.

 

Do you think it looks feminine becuase of the small waist?

Shirt is too tight at the back, armhole. I will add chest, waist and armhole.

 

Will the darts have an influence on the waist size of the shirt?

Darts will take fabric out of the back of the shirt, so yes. What he's recommending is that you add fabric to the waist of the shirt, making it bigger and more comfortable and less feminine, and then dart the back to stll accentuate your hard-earned work in the gym, but not excessively so.

 

Alternatively, you can do what I do, which is to have a waist measurement and then remove fabric from the lower back. For example, I specify a waist measurement of 18.5 but also to remove 1" from the lower back. My drop isn't as pronounced as yours, but it's enough that I have to adjust for it.

post #20810 of 24691

Thanx! :-)
post #20811 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1up View Post





I'm ready for my second iteration of ordering! Here are the changes to the above pictures that Luxire and I have worked with:

Shirts:
1. Increase shoulder slope by 0.25".
2. Increase armhole by 0.25".
3. Decrease sleeve width by 0.25".
4. Decrease cuff circumference by by 0.25".
5. Decrease chest below armhole by 0.25"
6. Decrease waist at back by 0.5"/ add darts to the back.

Pants:
1. Increase back rise at the crotch by 3/8".
2. Decrease inseam at crotch by 0.25"
3. Scoop the back slightly.

I plan on now getting the Blue University Stripes Oxford and the Mid-Grey Wool Flannel pants!

Few Final questions:
- For my first shirt, I selected 'Slim' for the overall fit, it is pretty snug as you can see in the pics. Should I select 'Regular' for my oxford? Or will the changes I am making accommodate a better fit?
- Why doesn't it mention which shoulder to increase the slope for? My right one hangs lower..
- I hear a lot of positive feedback for the Royal Oxford, but I like the pattern of the Blue University one - any thoughts?
- I lined the trousers only half-way to the knee - that will make it less warm?
post #20812 of 24691
This is the jacket I had made up in the heavy sashiko cloth

post #20813 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post

This is the jacket I had made up in the heavy sashiko cloth

 

That looks boss FC.  Is that a Shawl collar?

post #20814 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don L View Post

That looks boss FC.  Is that a Shawl collar?

Thanks, and yes. I would even make the collar a bit bigger if I were to reuse the pattern. Which is possible. wink.gif
post #20815 of 24691

Could I have some feedback on the fit of these trousers? 'm trying to improve the fit for my next order with Luxire. Here're the problems I'm experiencing:

- Front not clean.

- Trousers not falling cleanly over the shoes.

- Trousers crawling up between the butt cheeks resulting in disrupted lines at the back.

- What looks to be like to much room around the pockets and front (to the left of the crotch in the first picture). Also, I feel like, at least when standing, there's to much room around the hip area. But I'm afraid of decreasing it because as you can see, the trousers are already riding up between the butt cheeks. On the other hand, not tightening the seat area makes the trousers look like they're "sagging".

 

I'm not sure what alterations to ask for, but I'm considering one of the following two routes:

 

1

- Increase back rise at the crotch by 0,25" to remedy the problem of the trousers riding up between the butt cheeks.

- Scoop out the seat by 0,25" for the same reason as above.

- Slanted/military hem. Decrease front length by 0,25" and increase back length by 0,5" resulting in a 0,75" slant.

 

2

- Increase back rise at the crotch by 0,25" to remedy the problem of the trousers riding up between the butt cheeks.

- Scoop out the seat by 0,5" for the same reason as above. Note, this is 0,25" MORE than alternative 1.

- Slanted/military hem. Decrease front length by 0,25" and increase back length by 0,5" resulting in a 0,75" slant.

- Decrease half hip measurement at front by 0,25" to tighten the front seat area. I'm imagining this will render a cleaner look around the pockets.

- Decrease half hip measurement at the back by 0,25" to tighten the back seat area. I'm imagining this will render a cleaner look around the pockets.

- Decrease front rise by 0,25". I'm imagining this will render a cleaner look as well.

- Increase back rise at waist by 0,25" in order to give my butt/back a little more room in addition to the first alteration under this alternative (2).

 

What do you guys suggest? I'd appreciate your feedback. Basically trying to get a fit like @Betelgeuse =)

 

post #20816 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post
 

...  crawling up between the butt cheeks... 

:uhoh:

post #20817 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedstate View Post
 

:uhoh:

Hahaha! :D Well, I didn't know how else to describe it. "Riding up between the butt cheeks"?

post #20818 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Hahaha! biggrin.gif Well, I didn't know how else to describe it. "Riding up between the butt cheeks"?

Lol just playing around
post #20819 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

 

Hahaha! :D Well, I didn't know how else to describe it. "Riding up between the butt cheeks"?


I've noticed a lot of this issue in this thread, and it's the reason I would strongly recommend the "replication with adjustments" route. I don't pretend to know anything about patterns, but I think there may be a fundamental flaw in Luxire's base one. I'll be interested to see how you get this resolved because I have an old order that would be pretty excellent if not for the bum thing.

post #20820 of 24691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsson View Post
 


I've noticed a lot of this issue in this thread, and it's the reason I would strongly recommend the "replication with adjustments" route. I don't pretend to know anything about patterns, but I think there may be a fundamental flaw in Luxire's base one. I'll be interested to see how you get this resolved because I have an old order that would be pretty excellent if not for the bum thing.


This is my second pair of trousers with Luxire. This particular pair was scooped out 0,5" compared to my first order, and I'm still having this trouble. Although, to be fair, I can feel the difference as the back seam isn't grinding inwards as much as the previous pair.

 

As for a solution, Luxire has suggested 1) increasing the back rise at the crotch by 0,25", which will ease the tightness at the bottom of the crotch and 2) scoop out the seat an additional 0,25" to give more curve to the seat. Now, I agree with Luxire on these two alterations, but I'm not sure 0,25" each will be sufficient and I don't comprehend the visual effect of each alteration. Ultimately I would like the trousers to fall in a straight line from my back/butt and down the legs. As of now, they're convex shaped along the butt cheeks, if you understand what I mean.

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