or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 125

post #1861 of 12259
11 to 13.5 oz are very good weights for jeans imo, not a fan of the super stiff heavier ones.
For colors - besides deep indigo, I'd love to see white and light grey, the second probably stonewashed.
I had a pair of light grey Carhartt jeans which I loved and wore till it fell apart. Great summery color for people who don't dare to wear white.
For the hardwear, I very much like the buttons and rivets of APC. Much prefered silver in color over copper.
You can have a look over here.
http://www.contextclothing.com/item.php?id=6
post #1862 of 12259
I don't think you guys should do denim. The key to making good denim (in the sense that we talk about on this forum) is having access to a. really good denim, and b. proper vintage sewing machines.

If you are going to, you need to have weights up to 17 oz. You need to have selvedge. It should be 100% cotton, preferably from Japanese mills or Cone Mill in North Carolina.

Standard high end denim has features like hidden rivets (the pocket bags are constructed so the rivets are covered in), anchored belt loops within the waist band, selvedge interlining on the coin pocket, fly or under belt loops, etc.

APC has shitty hardware. It's cheap and flimsy. You want sturdy, heavyweight nickel and copper hardware. For zippers, the best are deadstock.

For options, you could do back pocket shape and placement (where as compared to the back yoke), you could do custom coin pocket sizing (iPhone sized), placement, you could do a coin pocket lined in a soft fleece fabric so it doesn't damage cellphone screens, you could do pen pockets, you could do buckebacks (that should be functional, not ornamental), zip fly vs. button fly, you could do different waistband fastenings (hook and bar closure vs. button through).

Seriously though, unless you have experienced sewers and cutters, dress pant construction isn't entirely transferable to denim construction. I've also always had reservations about MTM denim because of how denim patterning works - there's issues of silhouette and proportion that can be thrown out of whack.
post #1863 of 12259
Teger, I have had two APC NS and thought their hardware was fine.
What do you dislike about it?
To me they are solid pieces of metal with nicely rounded edges, no idea how what might be flimsy about them?
I recently bought a pair of Unbranded denim and both disliked the cut, the sharp edged copper hardware and the huge belt loops.
I will sell it and would therefore be very much interested in the offering of Luxire, especially because there are very little details I would change over the design of a NS and because I would be willing to send in a pair of mine as a sample for construction.
You might ask why I don't simply stay with an APC? I am not willing to pay almost $200 for a pair of jeans which won't even last whole a year for me.
Quote:
Standard high end denim has features like hidden rivets (the pocket bags are constructed so the rivets are covered in), anchored belt loops within the waist band, selvedge interlining on the coin pocket, fly or under belt loops, etc.

Also, things like that are not of importance for myself.
I am simply looking for a reasonable priced pair of jeans without branding and a quality on par or better than that of APC.
If I am able to drop a detail like a money pocket, perfect, but what should selvedge interlinings be good for and why shouldn't Luxire be able to make them for those interested in it?
post #1864 of 12259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

Teger, I have had two APC NS and thought their hardware was fine.
What do you dislike about it?
To me they are solid pieces of metal with nicely rounded edges, no idea how what might be flimsy about them?
I recently bought a pair of Unbranded denim and both disliked the cut, the sharp edged copper hardware and the huge belt loops.
I will sell it and would therefore be very much interested in the offering of Luxire, especially because there are very little details I would change over the design of a NS and because I would be willing to send in a pair of mine as a sample for construction.
You might ask why I don't simply stay with an APC? I am not willing to pay almost $200 for a pair of jeans which won't even last whole a year for me.

It's cheap. It doesn't hold up well, especially for the price.

The reason you disliked Unbranded denim is because it's denim that's made to sell at $80. Of course the quality is going to be horrible.

Compare APC to real denim (Sugarcane, Flat Head, Skull, Roy's) and you'll see what I'm talking about.
post #1865 of 12259
Quote:
Originally Posted by luxire View Post

Got some denim today, 4 types of 100% cotton in 11 to 13.5 oz. Another 2 types in 3.5 & 5 oz for shirts. Spring is almost here and its time to unlock some street-wear fun. Japanese selvedge coming soon too.

 

For the denim, we would like to know your preferences. We know that selvedge is loved and cherished. Apart from that, what would your wishlist be - for finishing options, garment options, denim color options, denim type options and denim weight options ?


Would love a super light weight denim for summer.

post #1866 of 12259
Please link me to some posts where the hardware on a pair of APCs has not outlived the cotton fabric of the pair it was attached to.
"It's cheap" is no arguement I care about as long as the piece is still fully functional.

I am honestly interested, please tell me what is better in a pair of jeans of those makers you mentioned compared to a pair of APC, Unbranded or Gustin.
Gustin for example uses a lot of fabrics from Japanese mills, so they have to cut down on something, what?
Fabrics, hardware, seams, or merely details and marketing, which I don't care about?
Once again, super heavy and stiff denim fabric is not for everyone.
I do understand it might stack and fade better than lighter fabrics, but there are a lot of (MC) people who simply like raw denim for it's deep indigo color and don't want to wear a pair of 17 oz fabric in the summer for it's fades.
post #1867 of 12259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

Please link me to some posts where the hardware on a pair of APCs has not outlived the cotton fabric of the pair it was attached to.
"It's cheap" is no arguement I care about as long as the piece is still fully functional.

I am honestly interested, please tell me what is better in a pair of jeans of those makers you mentioned compared to a pair of APC, Unbranded or Gustin.
Gustin for example uses a lot of fabrics from Japanese mills, so they have to cut down on something, what?
Fabrics, hardware, seams, or merely details and marketing, which I don't care about?
Once again, super heavy and stiff denim fabric is not for everyone.
I do understand it might stack and fade better than lighter fabrics, but there are a lot of (MC) people who simply like raw denim for it's deep indigo color and don't want to wear a pair of 17 oz fabric in the summer for it's fades.

Check out the APC thread in SW&D.

I used to work at a store that sold lots of high end denim 5 or so years ago. APCs cost $110 then (a year before that they were $90 something). Now they're $200, and the quality is worse -- if you compare two pairs, the denim feels thinner and the hardware feels flimsier.

Gustav and Unbranded get denim for a "Japanese mill", but what does that mean? Not all Japanese mills are created equal, and the best mills either exclusively sell to one brand, or don't sell to foreigners. If you a chance to handle really high end denim (Sugarcane, Iron Heart, Flat Head, Real McCoy's, Made in Japan Evisu, Pure Blue Japan) you'll immediately notice the difference. The denim has a thicker feel, regardless of weight in OZs, and much more character in texture. Fabrics are not just details of marketing, they influence how the denim feels, how it wears, how it breaks in and how it looks. It's akin to the difference between fabric from Loro Piana and the fabric you see on a Jos a Banks suit -- they might both be grey wool of a similar weight, but the difference will be immediately apparent.

Right now I'm wearing a pair of Triple Works, made by Iron Heart. When I compare these to other denim I own (including APCs) the differences in craftmanship and attention to detail are obviously apparent. Luxire is a company that, so far, has produced top notch products -- I know based on the shirt and pants I have. I don't know if they'll be able to produce denim at that level, and if they can't, I don't see why they should bother.
post #1868 of 12259
Don't mistake me, I am not saying APC is a high quality product - like I said before, I don't want to buy them anymore because they don't last for me and thus are not worth the price they are asking for to me.
What I am confused about though, is, what makes one pair of denim cost $300-400 and the other $80.
From what you say, it seems the most important detail is the fabric.
By the way I totally agree there are huge differences between fabrics which go under the same technical specifications.
Maybe you would be willing to order swatches and give your opinion on the fabrics Luxire got?
post #1869 of 12259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

Don't mistake me, I am not saying APC is a high quality product - like I said before, I don't want to buy them anymore because they don't last for me and thus are not worth the price they are asking for to me.
What I am confused about though, is, what makes one pair of denim cost $300-400 and the other $80.
From what you say, it seems the most important detail is the fabric.
By the way I totally agree there are huge differences between fabrics which go under the same technical specifications.
Maybe you would be willing to order swatches and give your opinion on the fabrics Luxire got?

Cost is a function of a lot of things.

What quantity is the denim being produced in?
How labor intensive is the process? Heavier weight denim is harder to sew, and thus takes more time.
Where is it made? Where is it sold? Good denim is made either in Japan or the US, and Japanese denim costs more to sell because of high import costs.
How much 'handwork' (a single person on a single sewing machine) is required?
Where is the hardware from? Is it deadstock?
How large is the brand, and how much of the cost of the denim is going to fund marketing (hello APC)?
post #1870 of 12259
Quote:
Originally Posted by luxire View Post

Got some denim today, 4 types of 100% cotton in 11 to 13.5 oz. Another 2 types in 3.5 & 5 oz for shirts. Spring is almost here and its time to unlock some street-wear fun. Japanese selvedge coming soon too.

For the denim, we would like to know your preferences. We know that selvedge is loved and cherished. Apart from that, what would your wishlist be - for finishing options, garment options, denim color options, denim type options and denim weight options ?

Would it be possible to get a picture of this fabric?
post #1871 of 12259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post
 I don't know if they'll be able to produce denim at that level, and if they can't, I don't see why they should bother.

I'm pretty satisfied with 80% of the quality at 50% of the price. Especially if the fit is perfect.

 

I love my Momo's, but they are expensive. This makes me unwilling to wear them in certain situations where I worry they may be stained or damaged. Luxire's products would offer far better value than other jeans such as 7 For All Mankind at the price point.

post #1872 of 12259
^
That's exactly my standpoint.
Also other from shoes, sweaters, jackets and shirts, I don't want to keep my jeans for a lot of years.
I neither like excessive fades nor do I like washed out jeans, so after maybe 1 1/2 or 2 years at the latest, I just throw them away, which I would not want to do to a pair which cost me several hundred of dollars.
post #1873 of 12259

I recently received a few more shirts including one made from (Luxire Privilege Collection Blue White Pin Stripes) http://custom.luxire.com/products/luxire-priviledge-collection-blue-white-pin-stripes. I didn't order a swatch beforehand, and just rolled the dice. It is a little bit on the heavier side of medium weight.

 

If you've been on the fence about that particular cloth/pattern, I can recommend it. It dresses up and down quite easily depending on the rest of your outfit (I ordered mine with no interlining).

 

The odd part is that is was the shirt I was least excited about, but the one I ended up liking the most.

post #1874 of 12259
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfn View Post


Would it be possible to get a picture of this fabric?

 

+1, also interested.

 

And Luxire how are you doing with that feature on shirt collars?

post #1875 of 12259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

^
That's exactly my standpoint.
Also other from shoes, sweaters, jackets and shirts, I don't want to keep my jeans for a lot of years.
I neither like excessive fades nor do I like washed out jeans, so after maybe 1 1/2 or 2 years at the latest, I just throw them away, which I would not want to do to a pair which cost me several hundred of dollars.

PBJ has jeans that don't fade so you can look into that

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread