I don't agree with the pleats comment or at least the reasoning behind them. The pants should sit flat whether or not there are pleats.
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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 833
Styleforum Top Pickspost #12482 of 195049/2/14 at 12:01pmQuote:
You may not agree, but that doesn't mean you aren't wrong. With extreme proportions you'll need darts or pleats in order smooth out the fabric in the transition from a very small waist measurement to a wide seat and thigh measurement. This is often the case for muscular people.
"Tightness in the front of the thigh is often a cause of this and can be remedied by dismantling the waistband and working about 3/8" of fullness across the front of the trouser, taken from the outlet at center back, shifting everything forward. An extra dart above the back pocket (there is usually only one) is helpful for prominent seats (but difficult to add to a finished garment), and a dart in the front helps with very muscular thighs."post #12483 of 195049/2/14 at 12:13pm
My understanding of the article is that it applies for a pair of pants that are too tight. If he were to take the pair he has now and apply the suggested alterations then cool that would be great; however, for getting a new pair, why not just increase the hip area to remove the tightness?post #12484 of 195049/2/14 at 12:18pmQuote:Originally Posted by DarkDestiny
My understanding of the article is that it applies for a pair of pants that are too tight. If he were to take the pair he has now and apply the suggested alterations then cool that would be great; however, for getting a new pair, why not just increase the hip area to remove the tightness?
Because trousers are 3D, not 2D. Simply adding width will help a bit, but you'll need to take out excess fabric somewhere in order to accommodate for the difference in waist and hip/seat/thigh measurements. Darts are the right tool for that. Pleats will serve in a similar way, and they add lots of comfort when sitting down.post #12485 of 195049/2/14 at 12:32pmQuote:
Do you have forward shoulders?post #12486 of 195049/2/14 at 12:33pmpost #12487 of 195049/2/14 at 12:35pmpost #12488 of 195049/2/14 at 1:06pmpost #12489 of 195049/2/14 at 2:30pmpost #12490 of 195049/2/14 at 2:35pmpost #12491 of 195049/2/14 at 3:52pmQuote:Originally Posted by bbob2013
Getting close to dialing in my shirt measurements. I think I went a little too narrow on some part of the forearm. It get s pretty snug when bending at the elbow. I can't tell if this is due to sleeve length needing to be let out (adding approx .25'') to the forearm from elbow down.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Also, the sleeves are single pleat, someone a few pages back wanted a pic but can't remember who.
Thanks for the picture, but it's a bit hard to tell from the captured shot.post #12492 of 195049/2/14 at 8:01pmI think I've pretty much nailed my luxire fit. The shoulder angle could, maybe, get some more work. I may also have made things a little too tight after washing, I'll see.
Collar on blue is Turner's 1 piece.
Collar on the pink is NOBD's, but with a higher band and longer collar points (slightly on both).post #12493 of 195049/2/14 at 8:20pmQuote:Originally Posted by hookem12387
I think I've pretty much nailed my luxire fit. The shoulder angle could, maybe, get some more work. I may also have made things a little too tight after washing, I'll see.
Collar on blue is Turner's 1 piece.
Collar on the pink is NOBD's, but with a higher band and longer collar points (slightly on both).
Looks great man. Hate to bother, but any chance you can tie a tie on both shirts and repost photos?
I was deciding between these two collars a while back and there were not very many photos of them with a tie on to compare (I believe just one or two of each). The band height on that turner collar looks ridiculous! I ordered the same collar three weeks ago, so we will see how I like it when it finally comes (not shipped yet ).post #12494 of 195049/3/14 at 7:10amQuote:
Seconded. The fit is very close and needs only minor adjustment; there's no reason to resort to the sartorial elephant's graveyard of pleats.
(Preparing to endure a bombardment of pocketwatches, spats with kilties, Rogaine cans and fedoras from the pro-pleat lobby. Come at me bros.)post #12495 of 195049/3/14 at 8:00amWell actually, even if you're more fashion oriented, pleats are back in a big way. 9/10 guys I met at Pitti had pleated pants, big fashion houses are beginning to bring them back into their collections et c. You can dislike them sure, but not claim that they only exist in the sartorial elephant's graveyard.
2 great examples (Click to show)
@DarkDestiny is right about the point that the pants should still sit flat whether you've got pleats or not.
Edited by EFV - 9/3/14 at 8:24am
- Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread
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