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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 833

post #12481 of 12681

I don't agree with the pleats comment or at least the reasoning behind them. The pants should sit flat whether or not there are pleats.

post #12482 of 12681
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkDestiny View Post
 

I don't agree with the pleats comment or at least the reasoning behind them. The pants should sit flat whether or not there are pleats.

 

You may not agree, but that doesn't mean you aren't wrong. With extreme proportions you'll need darts or pleats in order smooth out the fabric in the transition from a very small waist measurement to a wide seat and thigh measurement. This is often the case for muscular people.

 

"Tightness in the front of the thigh is often a cause of this and can be remedied by dismantling the waistband and working about 3/8" of fullness across the front of the trouser, taken from the outlet at center back, shifting everything forward. An extra dart above the back pocket (there is usually only one) is helpful for prominent seats (but difficult to add to a finished garment), and a dart in the front helps with very muscular thighs."

 

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/on-gaping-pockets.html

post #12483 of 12681

My understanding of the article is that it applies for a pair of pants that are too tight. If he were to take the pair he has now and apply the suggested alterations then cool that would be great; however, for getting a new pair, why not just increase the hip area to remove the tightness?

post #12484 of 12681
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkDestiny View Post
 

My understanding of the article is that it applies for a pair of pants that are too tight. If he were to take the pair he has now and apply the suggested alterations then cool that would be great; however, for getting a new pair, why not just increase the hip area to remove the tightness?

 

Because trousers are 3D, not 2D. Simply adding width will help a bit, but you'll need to take out excess fabric somewhere in order to accommodate for the difference in waist and hip/seat/thigh measurements. Darts are the right tool for that. Pleats will serve in a similar way, and they add lots of comfort when sitting down.

post #12485 of 12681
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Nope, I removed one inch from the back panel and added it to the front panel. It worked very well, except the lower back is still a big baggy. I've removed one inch from the lower back panel for my next shirt, so that should get rid of the excess fabric in that area

Do you have forward shoulders?
post #12486 of 12681

so that's why my pockets are always flared open, especially when i sit down

post #12487 of 12681
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post


Do you have forward shoulders?

 

I used to, but I've mostly corrected it. Couple more months of exercises and they should be ok.

post #12488 of 12681
I second MF here, go with pleats. Also, don't lower the rise, it sits perfectly at your natural waist atm, you can't get a more flattering positioning than that.
post #12489 of 12681
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post
 

 

I used to, but I've mostly corrected it. Couple more months of exercises and they should be ok.

 

Interesting OT but what exercises do you do to correct that?

post #12490 of 12681
Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris2012 View Post
 

 

Interesting OT but what exercises do you do to correct that?

This is impossible to answer without an in-person assessment of the dysfunction

post #12491 of 12681
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbob2013 View Post
 

Hey folks,

 

Getting close to dialing in my shirt measurements. I think I went a little too narrow on some part of the forearm. It get s pretty snug when bending at the elbow. I can't tell if this is due to sleeve length needing to be let out (adding approx .25'') to the forearm from elbow down.

 

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

Also, the sleeves are single pleat, someone a few pages back wanted a pic but can't remember who.

 

 

 

Thanks for the picture, but it's a bit hard to tell from the captured shot. 

post #12492 of 12681
I think I've pretty much nailed my luxire fit. The shoulder angle could, maybe, get some more work. I may also have made things a little too tight after washing, I'll see.

Collar on blue is Turner's 1 piece.
Collar on the pink is NOBD's, but with a higher band and longer collar points (slightly on both).


post #12493 of 12681
Quote:
Originally Posted by hookem12387 View Post

I think I've pretty much nailed my luxire fit. The shoulder angle could, maybe, get some more work. I may also have made things a little too tight after washing, I'll see.

Collar on blue is Turner's 1 piece.
Collar on the pink is NOBD's, but with a higher band and longer collar points (slightly on both).

Looks great man. Hate to bother, but any chance you can tie a tie on both shirts and repost photos?

I was deciding between these two collars a while back and there were not very many photos of them with a tie on to compare (I believe just one or two of each). The band height on that turner collar looks ridiculous! I ordered the same collar three weeks ago, so we will see how I like it when it finally comes (not shipped yet shog[1].gif).
post #12494 of 12681
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkDestiny View Post

I don't agree with the pleats comment or at least the reasoning behind them. The pants should sit flat whether or not there are pleats.

Seconded. The fit is very close and needs only minor adjustment; there's no reason to resort to the sartorial elephant's graveyard of pleats.

(Preparing to endure a bombardment of pocketwatches, spats with kilties, Rogaine cans and fedoras from the pro-pleat lobby. Come at me bros.)
post #12495 of 12681
Well actually, even if you're more fashion oriented, pleats are back in a big way. 9/10 guys I met at Pitti had pleated pants, big fashion houses are beginning to bring them back into their collections et c. You can dislike them sure, but not claim that they only exist in the sartorial elephant's graveyard.
2 great examples (Click to show)


@DarkDestiny is right about the point that the pants should still sit flat whether you've got pleats or not.
Edited by EFV - 9/3/14 at 8:24am
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