I don't agree with the pleats comment or at least the reasoning behind them. The pants should sit flat whether or not there are pleats.
Recent Images In This Thread
- categoryCoats Jacketstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- itemDolce & Gabbana - MOLESKINE JACKETtagged by bbob2013, 11/10/13
- categoryDress Pantstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- categoryFull Length Jacketstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- categoryJacketstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- categoryMid Length Jacketstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- categoryPants Shortstagged by luxire, 7/7/13
- categoryShirtstagged by SYSTEM, 8/19/12
Related Forum Threads
- HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) Last post on Today at 6:16 pm in Classic Menswear
- Your workhorse Spring/Summer cotton/linen sport jacket Last post on 5/23/15 at 10:38am in Classic Menswear
- Rick Owens black shorts, t-shirt Last post on 5/21/14 at 3:47pm in Streetwear & Denim Classifieds
- The Best of B&S - Someone should buy this! Last post on Yesterday at 7:06 pm in Classic Menswear
Styleforum visits De Bonne Facture at Paris Men's Week 2016
Last edited: 1/29/16
- The 2015 Buyer's Guide: OuterwearLast edited: 11/11/15
- Where should the points on my shirt collar lie in relation to my...Last edited: 3/24/16
- The 2015 Buyer's Guide: Denim and TrousersLast edited: 11/11/15
- Deals of the Week: October 5th, 2015Last edited: 10/6/15
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Buttons 'n' Threads
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- Grant Stone
- The Hanger Project
- H.N. White
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- M Classic 101
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 833post #12482 of 224999/2/14 at 12:01pmQuote:
You may not agree, but that doesn't mean you aren't wrong. With extreme proportions you'll need darts or pleats in order smooth out the fabric in the transition from a very small waist measurement to a wide seat and thigh measurement. This is often the case for muscular people.
"Tightness in the front of the thigh is often a cause of this and can be remedied by dismantling the waistband and working about 3/8" of fullness across the front of the trouser, taken from the outlet at center back, shifting everything forward. An extra dart above the back pocket (there is usually only one) is helpful for prominent seats (but difficult to add to a finished garment), and a dart in the front helps with very muscular thighs."post #12483 of 224999/2/14 at 12:13pm
My understanding of the article is that it applies for a pair of pants that are too tight. If he were to take the pair he has now and apply the suggested alterations then cool that would be great; however, for getting a new pair, why not just increase the hip area to remove the tightness?post #12484 of 224999/2/14 at 12:18pmQuote:Originally Posted by DarkDestiny
My understanding of the article is that it applies for a pair of pants that are too tight. If he were to take the pair he has now and apply the suggested alterations then cool that would be great; however, for getting a new pair, why not just increase the hip area to remove the tightness?
Because trousers are 3D, not 2D. Simply adding width will help a bit, but you'll need to take out excess fabric somewhere in order to accommodate for the difference in waist and hip/seat/thigh measurements. Darts are the right tool for that. Pleats will serve in a similar way, and they add lots of comfort when sitting down.post #12485 of 224999/2/14 at 12:32pmQuote:
Do you have forward shoulders?post #12486 of 224999/2/14 at 12:33pmpost #12487 of 224999/2/14 at 12:35pmpost #12488 of 224999/2/14 at 1:06pmpost #12489 of 224999/2/14 at 2:30pmpost #12490 of 224999/2/14 at 2:35pmpost #12491 of 224999/2/14 at 3:52pmQuote:Originally Posted by bbob2013
Getting close to dialing in my shirt measurements. I think I went a little too narrow on some part of the forearm. It get s pretty snug when bending at the elbow. I can't tell if this is due to sleeve length needing to be let out (adding approx .25'') to the forearm from elbow down.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Also, the sleeves are single pleat, someone a few pages back wanted a pic but can't remember who.
Thanks for the picture, but it's a bit hard to tell from the captured shot.post #12492 of 224999/2/14 at 8:01pmI think I've pretty much nailed my luxire fit. The shoulder angle could, maybe, get some more work. I may also have made things a little too tight after washing, I'll see.
Collar on blue is Turner's 1 piece.
Collar on the pink is NOBD's, but with a higher band and longer collar points (slightly on both).post #12494 of 224999/3/14 at 7:10amQuote:
Seconded. The fit is very close and needs only minor adjustment; there's no reason to resort to the sartorial elephant's graveyard of pleats.
(Preparing to endure a bombardment of pocketwatches, spats with kilties, Rogaine cans and fedoras from the pro-pleat lobby. Come at me bros.)post #12495 of 224999/3/14 at 8:00amWell actually, even if you're more fashion oriented, pleats are back in a big way. 9/10 guys I met at Pitti had pleated pants, big fashion houses are beginning to bring them back into their collections et c. You can dislike them sure, but not claim that they only exist in the sartorial elephant's graveyard.
2 great examples (Click to show)
@DarkDestiny is right about the point that the pants should still sit flat whether you've got pleats or not.
Edited by EFV - 9/3/14 at 8:24am
- The 2015 Buyer's Guide: Outerwear
- › Things That Are Bothering You, Got You All Hibbeldy-Jibbeldy, or... 1 minute ago
- › Official: Superhero, Comic Book, Sci-Fi, Fantasy, Horror, etc...... 4 minutes ago
- › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) 9 minutes ago
- › Tom Ford Tuscan Leather & Creed Aventus 10mL Splits 13 minutes ago
- › Crockett & Jones for Ralph Lauren Cordovan (Marlow, Darlton,... 22 minutes ago
- › Meermin Mallorca Shoes 23 minutes ago
- › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II... 31 minutes ago
- › HOF: Labels, heels and nail patterns - Secrets to ID the maker 50 minutes ago
- › semi-upscale casual for an older professional 50 minutes ago
- › Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope) 1 hour, 7 minutes ago
- › Sage de Cret Green Jacquard Wool Linen Blazer by robxznyc
- › Gerani Corduroy Slim Straight Pants Yellow by robxznyc
- › Luigi Bianchi Rough Heavy Cotton Twill Blazer Yellow by robxznyc
- › Sage de Cret Patchwork Wool Bomber Jacket by robxznyc
- › WLG by Giorgio Brato Brown Nubuck Bomber Leather Jacket by robxznyc
- › Alden Snuff Suede Flex-Welt Chukka Boot by mediahound
- › Alden Indy Boot 405 by Beancounter Tom
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Chukka by mediahound
- › Berlin & Son - Heritage Oxford by Mike87
- › Carmina for Epaulet Grey Suede Steinbeck Boot by Patek
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway
- › Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for...
- › What to Wear: The Black Tie Wedding
- › What to Wear: The Casual Summer Wedding
- › What to Wear to (Almost) Any Wedding
- › Ron Rider's comprehensive Shoe Care Guide
- › AE fit & sizing help
- › 5 of the best Groomsmen’s gifts