Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 69

Sure. Hand-attached inside of the collar, shoulder lining, and hem:


Other side of collar attached by hand:


Edge of patch pockets attached by hand:


Underside of patch pocket and closer view of hem:


I would show pics of the buttonholes, but this was ordered back when all those Indian holidays were causing delays. Ashish wanted to wait till the better tailors returned from holiday, but I suggested they just do machine ones and they did even though they didn't have the right machines for fabric thicker than shirting. I was more concerned about the fit than anything else. This is a cheap twill I bought in the Philippines and I bought enough yardage that a second jacket could be made. For future jackets, I believe the buttonholes will be handmade.

Fabric requirements vary by fabric width and size of the person. But assuming usual fabric width (~60" I think) I usually buy 1.5 yards for pants and 2.5 for a jacket. I think 1.75 for a shirt. I'm 6' 172 pounds or so, 39 chest, 32 waist.
Thanks. I disagree on the sleeves. The shirt sleeves may even be a smidge long. The traditional standard is that the shirt sleeve shouldn't cover your wrist at all, and these, even the left one, cover my hand a bit. The shirt sleeves are actually a perfect length; the cuffs are just loose. Unbottoned, the sleeves would come down another couple inches. Ideally the sleeve length should be around that, and the cuff should be snug enough to hug the wrist loosely. When I raise my arms, the shirt cuff stays put and the jacket sleeve raises. That's how it should be.

The body of the coat could be a .25-.5" longer, but this isn't really a fashionably short jacket, as it covers my rear completely.
I would love one. Or a linen one. I've been looking for a good source of washable summer sport coats for years. Very happy about finding Luxire, perhaps most of all because of their willingness to make such jackets. So I'm sending some more cotton twill, but also a thick, nubby, vintage wool flannel that I washed in hot water to soften it while tightening up the weave.

Here's a pic of the twill and flannel with the rest of my "underfunded liabilities":

I'm sending the top two seersucker shirt fabrics, the khaki cotton twill for a suit, and the nubby flannel on the bottom for a deconstructed but lined sport coat. The others will have to wait for more funds...

Thanks for the confidence. As I've mentioned before, Luxire is the only unknown company that came to the forum to advertise that I thought I'd try myself. Most (2-3 per day?) are so bad they get spaminated.

There are better shirtmakers out in the world (like $1,000+ Alex K, $700+ Charvet, $400+ Anna M, and others), but of the many I know of and the dozen or so I've tried, Luxire easily has the best value. Moreover, they aspire to be the world's best period, so they're constantly learning. There are of course concerns w/ any online mtm, the main ones include not getting your measurements right, forgetting to specify a detail or two that you assumed would be as you've normally had it from rtw or other sources (button size is one example), or liking a fabric more in pictures than in person. But none of these can be blamed on the maker. And all of them are still concerns with true bespoke at really high prices. No one's perfect. I've had much more expensive makers in HK, the US, England, and Italy make mistakes. Sometimes the fabric company sends fabric very different from a swatch. Sometimes a detail is forgotten by the maker. Sometimes I forget a detail.

So why the price difference between the two prince rose fabrics?

+1

Just got my shirt jacket!

Great work, Arnaud and team... it looks and fits great!

Hurrah we can be shirt jacket brothers! Even better since ur Aussie too :P

Thanks for the reply. That is actually really interesting. Had no idea some patterns would cost more to make then others.

Here are some fit pics of my last shirt, which I think has the following problems:

1. The collar is too high and the shirt collars are far too large.
2. Everything could be slimmed down just a bit throughout (lost some weight recently)
3. Sleeves are too long.

What else?

 

I think your pants are too high 

I would wait the day or two it takes to have someone else take the photos of you, then repost with them in the standard poses you see people post here when asking for fit advice. Your observations aren't necessarily off, but it is just too difficult to give better/specific feedback with the arm extended for self-photo shots and with no shots of the back. 

There's no physical location I can go to to get myself measured, is there? I see on the website that the parent company is located in Jersey City, NJ, and there's an office in Edison.  Both are manageable trips for me to make if that's an option.  I don't trust myself at all to measure myself accurately...

did you request a 2 button collar?
if yes? then it is not too tall.. If you did not, then someone made a mistake.

yes, it is too large and the collar is way too spread to be worn with out a tie.

the shirt fits you very well.
I would not make it much smaller.
i would guess you spend some time in the gym lifting?
has the shirt been washed?
if you make the sleeve too short, then they will get caught on your forearms when you reach for something.

Posted some newer pics for a bit more critique. I think it could be slightly slimmer at mid-waist, and the back is off. I do lift quite a bit.

I did request a two button collar, because I do like my collars a bit higher than standard, but this is probably too much, so may request an offset 2 button collar where the buttons are diagonal and the collar is just slightly oversized from their English collar.