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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 68

post #1006 of 13333
What's the quality like on the RTW shirts on the site? For $25, it appears to be too good to be true.
post #1007 of 13333
It would be great if you could link to a photo of the fabric on an actual shirt made. It helps a lot in choosing a fabric.
post #1008 of 13333
And come on, guys.

Do you really expect super high-end Monti at such an amazing pricepoint? I've seen the current fabric prices for such mills at my shirtmaker's workshop, watched them being delivered and seen firsthand the invoices... These cloths are expensive!!!

If Luxire provides a good service and product - I trust EmptM's judgment on this - at a nice price, then just take it for what it is.
post #1009 of 13333
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdEyedPugilist View Post

And come on, guys.

Do you really expect super high-end Monti at such an amazing pricepoint? I've seen the current fabric prices for such mills at my shirtmaker's workshop, watched them being delivered and seen firsthand the invoices... These cloths are expensive!!!

If Luxire provides a good service and product - I trust EmptM's judgment on this - at a nice price, then just take it for what it is.


I agree. My point was also that Monti is a large mill. They make fabrics ranging from the excellent to the average. At the price luxire is charging it is conceivable that they are the lowest range Monti makes (which isn't a negative).

 

Edit: On that note would actually be very interested if luxire purchased some staple fabrics from Alumo. For a white shirt the price jumps from $70 to $100 to $200 which I'm a little hesitant to spent on a fabric without reviews.

post #1010 of 13333
Quote:
Originally Posted by MSchapiro View Post


I agree. My point was also that Monti is a large mill. They make fabrics ranging from the excellent to the average. At the price luxire is charging it is conceivable that they are the lowest range Monti makes (which isn't a negative).

Edit: On that note would actually be very interested if luxire purchased some staple fabrics from Alumo. For a white shirt the price jumps from $70 to $100 to $200 which I'm a little hesitant to spent on a fabric without reviews.

1) Very likely that the fabric is on the lower end; I concur.

I also agree that it's not that big a deal.

2) Alumo is gorgeous.

I have 2 bespoke white shirts in Alumo cloth; one in two-fold 80 'Renda' poplin and the other, in two-fold 120 'superlux' poplin. Both hold their shape very well for poplin and the hand is decidedly smooth and luxurious. I also saw the sky blue 120 superlux poplin cloth and it is equally sublime.
post #1011 of 13333

Just out of curiosity for a total shirt n00b (and for the benefit of others who have posted in this thread also claiming to be new to shirts), does anybody have a good link or mind explaining some of the different types of fabrics (chambray, twill, linen etc.) and their pros and cons?  Also, I've never understood the nomenclature regarding the numbering (120 vs 140/2)...I assume the higher the number the softer the fabric is?  

 

Anywho, I've never put much thought in a shirt other than does it fit me and how much am I going to have to get tailored post-purchase so experimenting with different fabrics is essentially a "first step into a much larger world" for me (and I think others perusing this thread).  

 

If anyone can clear some of that up or point me in the right direction (links) I'd appreciate it.

 

Danke schon!

 

~Johnny

post #1012 of 13333
If you decide for a white fabric to have a dress shirt made from Luxire, please let me know.
As I have never owned a white shirt except an OCBD, I am uncertain which one to pick from the swatches I received.

EDIT:
Johnny, an folgender Stelle kannst du viel über Hemden lernen, auch über Stoffe
http://www.customshirt1.com/ArchiveOne.htm
post #1013 of 13333
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

If you decide for a white fabric to have a dress shirt made from Luxire, please let me know.
As I have never owned a white shirt except an OCBD, I am uncertain which one to pick from the swatches I received.

EDIT:
Johnny, an folgender Stelle kannst du viel über Hemden lernen, auch über Stoffe
http://www.customshirt1.com/ArchiveOne.htm

 

Sweet, thanks for the quick reply...also loving the model they use on that site lol

post #1014 of 13333

I have a shirt in Lustrous White (http://custom.luxire.com/collections/whites/products/lusterous-fine-white). Was very nice for the price (looks good, wearable, crisp ect).

 

I actually prefer it to some of more expensive shirts I have because it is cheaper. A perfect example is when I go to work and then out with co-workers after. For a $200 shirt I'm constantly worried about getting it dirty or something spilled on. For the $70 shirt (that looks as good as the $200, even if a tad less comfortable) I can actually enjoy my night.

post #1015 of 13333
MSchapiro, would you mind taking a picture while wearing the shirt?

I have a swatch of the Lustorous Fine White and it feels very soft.
On the other hand, looking at it being very plain, I was afraid it might be a tad too boring.
Would you say the plain weave makes it THE white dress shirt fabric because essentially a white dress shirt should be as conservative as possible?
post #1016 of 13333
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

MSchapiro, would you mind taking a picture while wearing the shirt?

I have a swatch of the Lustorous Fine White and it feels very soft.
On the other hand, looking at it being very plain, I was afraid it might be a tad too boring.
Would you say the plain weave makes it THE white dress shirt fabric because essentially a white dress shirt should be as conservative as possible?


If you'd really like I could, but wouldn't be very informative as it is just a plain white weave. 

 

It depends what you are looking for in a shirt. It makes a nice white staple shirt. Would I wear it in place of an oxford?  Probably not. But absolutely under a suit or around my office.

post #1017 of 13333
I am a student and will wear OCBDs most days.
For dress shirts I prefer the looks of a light blue or striped shirt and agree they can be worn with greater ease, because you are just not as afraid to stain them as a crisp white one.
Still I think a white shirt should be a staple in every man's wardrobe.
I only want to buy one or two and they should be very versatile.
Thus I want them to be conservative and at the same time don't want them to look like too cautious a choice.
Think mum dressing her son for his prom night - no thanks.
post #1018 of 13333

Lol the last line made me laugh. I would certainly add the lus white to your wardrobe. Make it look a little less conservative with your collar choice rather then the fabric.

 

Like a button down or spread collar.

post #1019 of 13333
Thread Starter 

The high end vs. low end Monti discussion is interesting.

 

The Navy Sky Tattersall is Monti Prince Rose Collection priced @129.99 vs. Light Sky Tattersall  Monti Prince Rose Collection priced @79.99

 

The White with Navy Grid is even premium collection priced @99.99

 

White With Blue Stripes: Another premium collection priced @99.99
 

But Lavender White Stripes and Green White Stripes - Both Prince Rose are 59.99

 

These are all "high-end Monti" - Still the prices are varied and different.

post #1020 of 13333
Quote:
Originally Posted by YourArsenal View Post

Wow that jacket looks great. Some fit issues, as is to be expected, but still. Any chances for some close-up pics of the handwork?
How much fabric is needed for a jacket if one does CMT?
Sure. Hand-attached inside of the collar, shoulder lining, and hem:
AppleMark

Other side of collar attached by hand:
AppleMark

Edge of patch pockets attached by hand:
AppleMark

Underside of patch pocket and closer view of hem:
AppleMark

I would show pics of the buttonholes, but this was ordered back when all those Indian holidays were causing delays. Ashish wanted to wait till the better tailors returned from holiday, but I suggested they just do machine ones and they did even though they didn't have the right machines for fabric thicker than shirting. I was more concerned about the fit than anything else. This is a cheap twill I bought in the Philippines and I bought enough yardage that a second jacket could be made. For future jackets, I believe the buttonholes will be handmade.

Fabric requirements vary by fabric width and size of the person. But assuming usual fabric width (~60" I think) I usually buy 1.5 yards for pants and 2.5 for a jacket. I think 1.75 for a shirt. I'm 6' 172 pounds or so, 39 chest, 32 waist.
Quote:
Originally Posted by razl View Post

It looks like Luxire did a great job on the jacket, but my take is that both your shirt sleeves and your jacket sleeves are too short (though the shirt cuff to jacket cuff ratio looks spot on) .

The position they end at in your pic with arms hanging is where you'd want them to be when your arm is extended, I'd worry that they are both going to be another 1"-2" up your arm when you're doing anything else. Yes, yes, the length seems to indicate you're going to that "shorter jacket" look - if so, ok fine; it is a casual jacket after all, but short sleeves regardless of jacket style would bug me.

Thanks. I disagree on the sleeves. The shirt sleeves may even be a smidge long. The traditional standard is that the shirt sleeve shouldn't cover your wrist at all, and these, even the left one, cover my hand a bit. The shirt sleeves are actually a perfect length; the cuffs are just loose. Unbottoned, the sleeves would come down another couple inches. Ideally the sleeve length should be around that, and the cuff should be snug enough to hug the wrist loosely. When I raise my arms, the shirt cuff stays put and the jacket sleeve raises. That's how it should be.

The body of the coat could be a .25-.5" longer, but this isn't really a fashionably short jacket, as it covers my rear completely.
Quote:
Originally Posted by prozach1576 View Post

Is anyone else seeing themselves in a Luxire seersucker suit?
I would love one. Or a linen one. I've been looking for a good source of washable summer sport coats for years. Very happy about finding Luxire, perhaps most of all because of their willingness to make such jackets. So I'm sending some more cotton twill, but also a thick, nubby, vintage wool flannel that I washed in hot water to soften it while tightening up the weave.

Here's a pic of the twill and flannel with the rest of my "underfunded liabilities":
AppleMark
I'm sending the top two seersucker shirt fabrics, the khaki cotton twill for a suit, and the nubby flannel on the bottom for a deconstructed but lined sport coat. The others will have to wait for more funds...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdEyedPugilist View Post

...If Luxire provides a good service and product - I trust EmptM's judgment on this - at a nice price, then just take it for what it is.
Thanks for the confidence. As I've mentioned before, Luxire is the only unknown company that came to the forum to advertise that I thought I'd try myself. Most (2-3 per day?) are so bad they get spaminated.

There are better shirtmakers out in the world (like $1,000+ Alex K, $700+ Charvet, $400+ Anna M, and others), but of the many I know of and the dozen or so I've tried, Luxire easily has the best value. Moreover, they aspire to be the world's best period, so they're constantly learning. There are of course concerns w/ any online mtm, the main ones include not getting your measurements right, forgetting to specify a detail or two that you assumed would be as you've normally had it from rtw or other sources (button size is one example), or liking a fabric more in pictures than in person. But none of these can be blamed on the maker. And all of them are still concerns with true bespoke at really high prices. No one's perfect. I've had much more expensive makers in HK, the US, England, and Italy make mistakes. Sometimes the fabric company sends fabric very different from a swatch. Sometimes a detail is forgotten by the maker. Sometimes I forget a detail.
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