or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Bringing Steed Bespoke Tailors to San Francisco or Los Angeles
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Bringing Steed Bespoke Tailors to San Francisco or Los Angeles - Page 2

post #16 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Mahon still visits, but I feel like Steed offers something unique, even when compared to A&S and Mahon. I would have thought there'd be people interested in trying that out.

What is this unique attribute? Both Mahon and De Boise were trained side by side at A and S so it is difficult to see what is so significantly different.
post #17 of 85
They cut very differently, in my opinion.

In Edwin's case, I'm not sure that "trained" at A&S is exactly the right description. He adopted the A&S style, cut it at A&S for years, and continued to cut it when Steed was formed.

Rather than give you my impression, I'll quote an old Manton post from eight years ago:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I was generally happy with Steed. My first suit surprised me: it was dramatically different from anything I had ever owned. There is no mistaking it for anything but a bespoke suit. The silhouette is not exaclty subtle. Swelled chest and very pinched waist. Curved, "belly cut" lapels. Edwin also makes something like a true natural shoulder "drape" suit. One difference, however, is that he does not extend the shoulderline, but ends it right on the deltoid. There is almost no padding. The shoulder seam cants backward; the "backneck" or "pupilla" measurement is a perfect 3". The chest cloth truly "drapes" from the shoulder seam. Hard to do well. The coat is very, very comfortable. And it really "sticks": you can flail your arms in all directions and the collar of the jacket will never lift so much as a millimeter off the back of your neck.

Keep in mind that at the time that Edwin and Tom were at A&S, there were several senior cutters, each with their own take on the A&S style. It wasn't as monolithic as it is today.

Also, Edwin was at Nutters. It is my opinion that his days with Sexton also influence his cut.

There's overlap today between Tom and Edwin, but their centers of gravity are not the same. That's how it should be.
post #18 of 85
Thread Starter 
I would add that Mahon seems to cut a softer looking, more drape-ish jacket, whereas Steed seems to have a cleaner back, less drape in the front, and a more swollen chest. Those are just my observations, however, and I welcome any corrections.

Perhaps one could ask for something similar from Mahon, and perhaps he would do it for you, but I thought since Steed's cut already looks so great, it would be quite special if we could have them come out to California. They could make some very handsome, softly-tailored fall or winter jackets.

The alternative, by the way, is to visit Edwin and Matthew in London. They said it would take about two weeks to complete a jacket. That's a bit less convenient than if we could have them visit us.
post #19 of 85
I suppose none of this bodes well for Milwaukee.

Rob
post #20 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

The alternative, by the way, is to visit Edwin and Matthew in London. They said it would take about two weeks to complete a jacket. That's a bit less convenient than if we could have them visit us.

That, or meet with them during one of their current stops on a U.S. tour.
post #21 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

One reality that's facing you is that the vanishingly small (vanished?) contingent of coat and tie wearers in Cali who are also interested in the London Lounge look of A&S are already being serviced by A&S and also by Tom Mahon (does Tom still travel to San Francisco?)
I'm surprised that Mina trucks out there...I have my doubts there's enough continuing demand after the initial flurry. After the charm of seeing Alcatraz wears off, it could be too exhausting to dodge the hipsters and derelicts.
A traveling business is built on customers who order every trip or at least every year, year in, year out.

How to choose between Mina and steed?
post #22 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

How to choose between Mina and steed?

This is not a valid question for most. One either likes one or the other, and maybe neither. And that's that.

A couple of us like both, and wear it.

A few more wear both SR and Italian stuff, more generally speaking. I can think of five guys on SF, off hand, but no more.

Given that StyFo has, we're told, over 100K members, these examples are not significant.
post #23 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

This is not a valid question for most. One either likes one or the other, and maybe neither. And that's that.
A couple of us like both, and wear it.
A few more wear both SR and Italian stuff, more generally speaking. I can think of five guys on SF, off hand, but no more.
Given that StyFo has, we're told, over 100K members, these examples are not significant.



Which do you prefer
post #24 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

Which do you prefer

In the last eleven years, I've had nothing for the summer made by Steed.

So, this summer, everything that I'm wearing is NSM, MBT, or Borrelli RTW from their old departed Linosa/Sorrento line.

When fall comes, though, I'll wear Steed almost exclusively except for a few NSM and MBT numbers.
post #25 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

In the last eleven years, I've had nothing for the summer made by Steed.
So, this summer, everything that I'm wearing is NSM, MBT, or Borrelli RTW from their old departed Linosa/Sorrento line.
When fall comes, though, I'll wear Steed almost exclusively except for a few NSM and MBT numbers.
Isn't your mbt paul jheeta?
post #26 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

....
Given that StyFo has, we're told, over 100K members, ....

Really? Surprised to hear that; does that include people with multiple accounts?
post #27 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

Isn't your mbt paul jheeta?

Mario Zuccala.
post #28 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

Really? Surprised to hear that; does that include people with multiple accounts?

No.
post #29 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

No.

bigstar[1].gif
post #30 of 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Mahon still visits, but I feel like Steed offers something unique, even when compared to A&S and Mahon. I would have thought there'd be people interested in trying that out.

There are people on the West Coast that like tailored clothing. The problem you are facing here is that many of those people are probably not reading Style Forum, at least on any regular basis. You might find a decent number of men in the Bay area who may be interested in Steed, but I have no idea how you would go about getting word out to them. Then there is the issue of how many have heard of Steed? The Venn overlap between Style Forum (as a vehicle for frothing up interest), men who like tailored clothing on the West Coast, and men who have heard of and would spend money on Steed is probably not large.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Bringing Steed Bespoke Tailors to San Francisco or Los Angeles