*** Official S/S 2013 Runway Thread *** - Page 5

The jil collection look like Raf's Jil 4-5 years ago. Which is just boring and ugly shoes.

If this is true, what are the traditional Jil shoppers are expecting?

Nice fabrics, quality fit and construction, Jil Sander tag

Jil Sander: In terms of expectations, they were certainly high. After all, this is Jil Sander's return to her eponymous label after the departure of a rather high profile designer from that position. Furthermore, the show, for all intents and purposes, kicked off the SS13 season. I'm not sure this was the best move because her aesthetic (especially in a spring-summer menswear collection) does not lend itself to making a big splash. I almost wish that Jil had just done a presentation or even had this be a team effort (like what was done after she left and before Raf was appointed). This would have allowed her to focus on / debut with the womenswear collection and then launch a fall-winter menswear collection that would better showcase her vision. While there are nice pieces I don't really get a sense of where she is taking her label / aesthetic.

Also...the shoes (spoiler-ed to protect your eyes): Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
And:

Margaret Howell

 

Simple and solid everyday wear. Lots of pieces I could see myself wearing.

silent ss13 sandals and sneakers

Agree 100% with this. Although, having said that, it looks like the fashion press so wanted her comeback to be amazing that they have made it a reality for themselves, so in the end I guess it doesn't matter.

http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/06/23/at-sanders-show-watching-a-masters-work/
http://nowfashion.com/2012-06-23-jil-sander-menswear-spring-summer-2013-milan-review-357.html

Oh god those shoes hurt me.  It wasn't as apparent to me during the actual show just how bad they were.

 

Really was disappointed in Porsum even though I don't wear it the last two collections were really awesome I thought and this one was...it was not good.

Edited by Sean9 - 6/24/12 at 8:32am

Jil looked to me like a continuation of what's been going on there. No opinion on whether that's good or bad.

Bottega Veneta looks pretty dope (typically a favorite of mine). Check out that opening look.

Good grief, I hadn't checked out the detail shots of the shoes.

Those are painful to look at. But people will buy them, protesting, "But . . . they're . . . . Jil! . . . ?" in the same tone Johnny Weir says "I'll buy anything with an LV on it."

I read a lot of published criticism, and I've written some myself (though relating to films, not runway shows); the reason I mention this is because I am always struck by how afraid fashion 'critics' (do we even call them that?) are of ever criticizing anything. I don't remember ever seeing a negative word anywhere in GQ or on Style.com or in any of the magazines I flip through (which is not many), no matter how revolting the collection.

Everything can be construed as a reference, and in this silly fashion universe they've created for themselves, any reference is legitimate and above reproach, even if it's to the homeless people two blocks away whose life earnings couldn't buy a single runway shoe. Why doesn't anybody ever say as much when a designer creates a bunch of complete shit?

No movie director, no playwright, no journalist or novelist gets this kind of carte blanche except from their own fanbase. Critics aren't supposed to be die-hard fans afraid to nitpick. So how did the fashion industry contrive for itself this perfect, incestuous echo chamber where they can do whatever they want and never hear anything but praise?
Edited by GoldenTribe - 6/24/12 at 9:15am

I think it has to do with the nature of the industry itself.

If you give negative feedback (and are not yourself a sacred cow like Anna Wintour or something) then you will probably not be invited to the right parties or given any exclusives to cover etc. And the industry runs on novelty and access to these people and their clothing. Would be difficult for the various publications to attract readers if they were to alienate the people who would provide them with the - free - content they require to remain relevant. If the magazines were willing to actually purchase clothing for editorials and so on, would probably make their lives a little bit easier and encourage a little bit more objectivity.

At least it seems that this is part of the problem a lot of the time. There's also the emperor's new clothes syndrome. Let's not even discuss all the corporate shilling that goes on on some fashion blogs.

That look you posted from the Bottega show looks really nice pppp, not sure about the bag though . Will go have a look at the full collection.

does giuliano fujiwara do a presentation in milan?
they did that the last seasons, but they appointed a new creative director in april

Missed this question. Petar Petrov is not doing a runway presentation this season. Showroom only.

if you look at the detail shots on gq, like 1/3 of the pics are of the bags (or at least it seems that way). money money money... not all of the show is great, but I liked it overall