Aitor Throup is most impressive to me because of that construction process he's developed. Sounds pretty incredible, like issey-miyake-level incredible. I find the whole thing frustrating and fascinating at the same time. In spite of any annoyance I feel with all the teasing I still can't wait to see some actual clothes.
The van essche stuff looks good. Liked a bunch of Christophe Lemaire too.
What were thoughts on Damir? A lot less (melo)dramatic than usual, in my opinion, which isn't a bad thing. I was a bit unimpressed on first look, but it's already growing on me. He said in that interview shah posted in the high-fashion/runway thread that Armani's shapes have been a big influence, and I can definitely see that. I like it. I think he does really beautiful fabrics too and I would love to see some high-res detail shots of the clothes.
Just a general thought: I've developed a sense of fatigue with slim silhouettes. Because fashion is so saturated with that shape, it almost feels like it's not a real choice, just a given that designers accept as their starting point. I know that's not necessarily true in all cases, but it seems that way in many of them. I think that's why Yohji feels so new at the moment, even though he's been doing his thing forever (doesn't hurt that he's been putting out exceptional collections lately).