Originally Posted by SuitingStyle
prob. this weekend. But I would agree with prevous poster, a solid B for the first suit. On a scale of 1 to 10, I would say mabe a 5.5 to 6. Maybe I am being harsh, but I was very irrated that the shoulders are more padded than I would like.
The only thing I specifically emphasied was to have very little shoulder padding, especially giving my bulky upper body, I don't need the linebacker look. He also put too much ropping on the shoulders than I had anticipated. To be fair , I gave him a nicely fiited model in Brioni suit I found in Men's Vouge to inmitate.
I as well hope to have pics up by the weekend.. the proportions of my flat make it impossible for me take self-portraits alone.
My rough breakdown would be:
*not really a judge of the tailor, but still counts IMO.
Positives: The one point which I hammered in was a heavy lapel roll, which I wanted as long as possible, even with a high button stance. He did this very well in my opinion. The suit feels solid but still has good drape, something which I believe he prides himself on, though this is probably aided by the Scabal fabric which I splurged on. Buttonholes, pick-stitching, hand canvassing, etc. are all there and done well. Also, Gordon's English is good, so I think communication with him was easier than my experience at Chan, where I needed a salesman to translate.
Negatives: The cut just didn't turn out how I envisioned. Things I really wanted were: narrower, natural shoulders, high button stance, heavy waist supression and very high gouge. Starting from the shoulders, the shoulder padding was STILL a bit more than I wanted despite asking him at each fitting for less and less, but I've noticed that Chan does the same so it may be a trend amongst HK CMT tailors. Shoulders width is "standard" width and doesn't really strike a slimmer "modern" silhouette. Button stance is also what I consider "average" not high, waist suppression is decent. The gouge he actually recommended to move down, which I agreed to because I didn't want the suit turning out too "˜clownish', however the end result shows that my Chan suit actually has a higher gouge!
The lowest score I gave above was on detailing, I feel that Gordon didn't spend enough time discussion what details I wanted on the suit and was clearly reluctant to do anything "non-traditional", e.g., contrast color linings. Also, I remember asking for a "tear drop" lapel button hole with a loop, but I got neither! Lastly I wasn't particularly impressed with his selection of buttons, linings, etc. which he didn't really provide any options for.
Overall: B+ I think I rate Gordon a bit higher than others here because I had the luxury of multiple fittings in HK. The completed product IMO is better than my Chan suit, for 2 reasons: fabric and drape. Other areas I would rate Chan equal to or above. Gordon says he doesn't have a "house cut," but I do believe that implicitly he does go for a more structured British style. He is not comfortable doing anything too extreme, e.g., high gouge, narrow, soft shoulders, unique detailing, etc. That said, I feel that if I spent the time (and more importantly money) to develop a working relationship with Gordon, some great results could be had.