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Gordon Yao - Page 7

post #91 of 249
Please post some pics of the suit on you.
post #92 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuitingStyle View Post
Had my fitting today with Gordon, very nice experience. Very reasonablly priced for CMT suits. Inspected couple his jackets , seemed very well made, looking forward to see how it turns out. Anyone else went this week? Would like to hear other people's experience.

Do you any pictures of the finished article?
post #93 of 249
prob. this weekend. But I would agree with prevous poster, a solid B for the first suit. On a scale of 1 to 10, I would say mabe a 5.5 to 6. Maybe I am being harsh, but I was very irrated that the shoulders are more padded than I would like.

The only thing I specifically emphasied was to have very little shoulder padding, especially giving my bulky upper body, I don't need the linebacker look. He also put too much ropping on the shoulders than I had anticipated. To be fair , I gave him a nicely fiited model in Brioni suit I found in Men's Vouge to inmitate.

There was also too much waist suppresion, combined with the slightly bulking shoulders, I look a bit unpropotional.

However, the construction of the suit is very good. Hand attached collar and sleeves, full canvass. But at least point, I would say I more prefer my RTW Isaia than a custom suit I got.

Anyone else care to share their reaction to their first Yao suit...........
post #94 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuitingStyle View Post
prob. this weekend. But I would agree with prevous poster, a solid B for the first suit. On a scale of 1 to 10, I would say mabe a 5.5 to 6. Maybe I am being harsh, but I was very irrated that the shoulders are more padded than I would like.

The only thing I specifically emphasied was to have very little shoulder padding, especially giving my bulky upper body, I don't need the linebacker look. He also put too much ropping on the shoulders than I had anticipated. To be fair , I gave him a nicely fiited model in Brioni suit I found in Men's Vouge to inmitate.

There was also too much waist suppresion, combined with the slightly bulking shoulders, I look a bit unpropotional.

However, the construction of the suit is very good. Hand attached collar and sleeves, full canvass. But at least point, I would say I more prefer my RTW Isaia than a custom suit I got.

Anyone else care to share their reaction to their first Yao suit...........

Does anyone feel that with multiple fittings these issues could be solved?
post #95 of 249
A little perspective is probably in order. Your very first order from any tailor, especially a traveling one, is not going to be spot-on from a silhouette perspective. A few more opinions would also be helpful. Olemungu's description sounds pretty objective, but comparing a RTW Isaia to a suit modeled after a picture of a Brioni is probably not the best standard. With other travelling tailors, I've gotten very good results by about the 3rd jacket. That said, my (first) Yao jacket is supposed to be here next week and I'll try to put up some pictures of it.
post #96 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by dah328 View Post
A little perspective is probably in order. Your very first order from any tailor, especially a traveling one, is not going to be spot-on from a silhouette perspective. A few more opinions would also be helpful. Olemungu's description sounds pretty objective, but comparing a RTW Isaia to a suit modeled after a picture of a Brioni is probably not the best standard.

With other travelling tailors, I've gotten very good results by about the 3rd jacket. That said, my (first) Yao jacket is supposed to be here next week and I'll try to put up some pictures of it.

I agree, I do feel with couple of more oders, the issue with padding and wasit suppresion could be corrected to a high satatisfaction.

Maybe this is just an over reaction, but I was somewhat dissatisfied with the fit.
Also, I feel had he been a local tailor and I had a chance to go throught multiple fittings (IE Mr. Ned), I would have caught the fit problem before the suit was finished.

I am not tring to knock Yao, his work is solid, good construction, you just really have to be on top of him and communicate every details you want to him, don't assume anything.
post #97 of 249
He may be able to make some adjustments to your jacket, too. I've had both shoulder padding and waist suppression alterations done on bespoke jackets after the fact with favorable results.
post #98 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by dah328 View Post
With other travelling tailors, I've gotten very good results by about the 3rd jacket.

I have done better than that with Chan. The first suit I got was pretty darn good, better than any department store RTW I've owned in the fit department. I have found the fit on all subsequent jackets from Chan close to perfection.
post #99 of 249
That travelling tailor I mentioned with whom I've had very good results on the third jacket was in fact Chan even though my first jacket was done with multiple fittings in HK. As I've said in the past, the only reason I no longer use them is that they no longer offer a CMT option. My larger point is that an anonymous poster's assessment of the fit of his jacket should not be taken by itself as the rating for a tailor. Even for the top tailors in NYC or London, experienced bespoke buyers have differing opinions, so I think we should remain optimistic on Mr. Yao's prospects until we have a reasonable sample of responses by which we can evaluate his work.
post #100 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuitingStyle View Post
prob. this weekend. But I would agree with prevous poster, a solid B for the first suit. On a scale of 1 to 10, I would say mabe a 5.5 to 6. Maybe I am being harsh, but I was very irrated that the shoulders are more padded than I would like.

The only thing I specifically emphasied was to have very little shoulder padding, especially giving my bulky upper body, I don't need the linebacker look. He also put too much ropping on the shoulders than I had anticipated. To be fair , I gave him a nicely fiited model in Brioni suit I found in Men's Vouge to inmitate.

I as well hope to have pics up by the weekend.. the proportions of my flat make it impossible for me take self-portraits alone.

My rough breakdown would be:

Construction: A
Fit: B
Fabric*: A
Detailing: B-
Service: B+
*not really a judge of the tailor, but still counts IMO.

Positives: The one point which I hammered in was a heavy lapel roll, which I wanted as long as possible, even with a high button stance. He did this very well in my opinion. The suit feels solid but still has good drape, something which I believe he prides himself on, though this is probably aided by the Scabal fabric which I splurged on. Buttonholes, pick-stitching, hand canvassing, etc. are all there and done well. Also, Gordon's English is good, so I think communication with him was easier than my experience at Chan, where I needed a salesman to translate.

Negatives: The cut just didn't turn out how I envisioned. Things I really wanted were: narrower, natural shoulders, high button stance, heavy waist supression and very high gouge. Starting from the shoulders, the shoulder padding was STILL a bit more than I wanted despite asking him at each fitting for less and less, but I've noticed that Chan does the same so it may be a trend amongst HK CMT tailors. Shoulders width is "standard" width and doesn't really strike a slimmer "modern" silhouette. Button stance is also what I consider "average" not high, waist suppression is decent. The gouge he actually recommended to move down, which I agreed to because I didn't want the suit turning out too "˜clownish', however the end result shows that my Chan suit actually has a higher gouge!

The lowest score I gave above was on detailing, I feel that Gordon didn't spend enough time discussion what details I wanted on the suit and was clearly reluctant to do anything "non-traditional", e.g., contrast color linings. Also, I remember asking for a "tear drop" lapel button hole with a loop, but I got neither! Lastly I wasn't particularly impressed with his selection of buttons, linings, etc. which he didn't really provide any options for.

Overall: B+ I think I rate Gordon a bit higher than others here because I had the luxury of multiple fittings in HK. The completed product IMO is better than my Chan suit, for 2 reasons: fabric and drape. Other areas I would rate Chan equal to or above. Gordon says he doesn't have a "house cut," but I do believe that implicitly he does go for a more structured British style. He is not comfortable doing anything too extreme, e.g., high gouge, narrow, soft shoulders, unique detailing, etc. That said, I feel that if I spent the time (and more importantly money) to develop a working relationship with Gordon, some great results could be had.
post #101 of 249
It sound just like my Ascort Chang suit. I keep asking fewer padding on shoulders, but it still turn out full shoulder padding.
Also the buttonhole problem.

I think their cut is more traditional british.
post #102 of 249
I have not seen any tailor in HK who can really cut a soft suit. They are all structured and boxy. The only exception being Tux&Collars whose tailor have received training in Naples. Unfortunately the store front is no longer in business and I have never gotten the tailor's personal contact.
post #103 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by maomao1980 View Post
I have not seen any tailor in HK who can really cut a soft suit. They are all structured and boxy. The only exception being Tux&Collars whose tailor have received training in Naples. Unfortunately the store front is no longer in business and I have never gotten the tailor's personal contact.

oh, you must mao, you must!
post #104 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatsby View Post

The lowest score I gave above was on detailing, I feel that Gordon didn't spend enough time discussion what details I wanted on the suit and was clearly reluctant to do anything "non-traditional", e.g., contrast color linings. Also, I remember asking for a "tear drop" lapel button hole with a loop, but I got neither! Lastly I wasn't particularly impressed with his selection of buttons, linings, etc. which he didn't really provide any options for.

.


You surprise me that detailing was an issue. He handles my requests very well right down to specific dimensions of the individual inside pockets. He has changed many things upon request.

Button hole with loop compris
post #105 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by maomao1980 View Post
I have not seen any tailor in HK who can really cut a soft suit. They are all structured and boxy. The only exception being Tux&Collars whose tailor have received training in Naples. Unfortunately the store front is no longer in business and I have never gotten the tailor's personal contact.

they moved to pacific bldg 6th floor! opp harvy nicks
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