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Gordon Yao - Page 5

post #61 of 249
Hey everyone, I'm planning on travelling to HK or SH in the winter and was looking to get a tailored suit from a reputatable tailor. The thing is, it would be my second suit - my first being a black (I'm 21). I hope I'm not too young for the whole tailored suit fad. I am looking to spend $1000-1500 on a suit and maybe an additional blazer, but I'm not at all familiar with the process. On Chan's website, he asks to bring your most fitted suit so you can tell him how it should fit (my first and only suit was an off the wall Nautica suit $300-400) which would be a large inconvience for me - is it necessary? The reason I want a tailored suit (and shirts later on) is because I've got fairly wide/broad shoulders and thick arms with a thin wrist. Suits that fit my chest and shoulders are generally too long for me so I have to get them adjusted anyway. (I'm 40 chest, 14 & 13.5 arms, 32 waist & 34 hips, 16 neck and 5 ft 5 ) Does anyone have any advice for me? I'm just wondering if I'm too young to be purchasing an expensive suit (I pay for my own expenses so if I save the money it would be for entertainment or other clothes). I'm most likely going to be working for an accounting firm next year (PwC) and want to dress appropriately which is why I'm set on a suit + blazer. I was thinking of going a nice deep blue but I've read it's for older people. also, Scabal sounds quite expensive. Is it more pricey than Zegna fabrics? & would the tailors give their opinion to what looks good and what doesn't? sometimes I don't really know until I've worn something for a while whether or not I like it
post #62 of 249
Viktri, for a first year analyst I wouldn't recommend trying to outdress your managers, etc. You would be better off getting two mid-range suits than one bespoke. That said, assuming you have the disposable income, there is no business investment quite like a bespoke suit. As to whether or not you should bring along a suit for the fitting, I would recommend rather to bring your best fitting shirt and a pair of 'nice' though not necessarily dress shoes. Generally (from my experience) HK tailors already have a pre-conceived notion in their head of how they will be cutting your suit, regardless of what you bring in.

Also, an update, I finished my first fitting at Yao. Pretty much went to expectations expect for some minor (major?) annoyances. Gordon never seems to excited when I ask about 'details', and it turns out it is because he doesn't really provide for them. He never really bothered asking about the pockets, (inner or outer), lining, buttons, etc. He didn't even ask if I wanted the lapel buttonhole until I brought it up. The most aggravating issue is with the buttons, as he only offers a dark blue "horn powdered" plastic button for a navy suit. Though I could easily find my own buttons later and have them replaced, it belies the custom(er) made aspect of bespoke tailoring. In contrast, Chan was very good about providing for details like colored linings and buttons and had a healthy selection of each.. Even my old MTM tailor in Tokyo had better choices.

Should be having my second fitting next week.. will see how it turns out.
post #63 of 249
You surprise me on his approach to detail - I have found him entirely accommodating. Just lay down what you want and he will do it accurately and without question.

I have many preferences especially pockets, number, size, precise style and position and he has not been surpassed in meeting my needs. Chan was on the other hand reluctant.
post #64 of 249
anyone got their order from the June tour yet?
When do you expect to receive the June order?
Getting a bit nervous, haven't heard anything from Gordon, and he hasn't answered any of my emails.
post #65 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuitingStyle View Post
anyone got their order from the June tour yet?
When do you expect to receive the June order?
Getting a bit nervous, haven't heard anything from Gordon, and he hasn't answered any of my emails.

I ordered in June. I haven't emailed, but also haven't heard anything. Would also like to hear an update if anyone has heard anything.
post #66 of 249
I have yet to receive anything from my June order. I wonder if he tends to overpromise on delivery times. It has been only two months and Chan's delivery times were closer to four months but Chan always delivered sooner than promised.
post #67 of 249
he told me 4 to 6 weeks upon receipt of material ....... but I think it is definitely too ambitious. Maybe it will be more like end of September.
post #68 of 249
I emailed him couple days ago, and he told me that he'll ship it out by end of the month.
post #69 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viktri View Post
I was thinking of going a nice deep blue but I've read it's for older people.

Hunh???? That's a new one on me. Admittedly, I am an "older person," but when I bought my 22-year-old stepson a deep blue pinstripe early this year, he didn't complain.

Quote:
Scabal sounds quite expensive. Is it more pricey than Zegna fabrics?
& would the tailors give their opinion to what looks good and what doesn't? sometimes I don't really know until I've worn something for a while whether or not I like it

Scabal has an extensive range of fabrics, as does Zegna. I suspect there is considerable overlap in pricing. To get a really good idea of which is better value, you would have to compare the pricing on very closely equivalent fabrics. A lightweight jacket made from a Scabal fresco that I got from Chan this spring cost a bit less ($71 less, to be exact) than a blazer I just got made from one of the Holland & Sherry "Snowy River" worsteds. Zegna is certainly not inexpensive--that much I can tell you!

Have you settled on a tailor? I have no experience with Yao and can only note that forum comment on his work is generally positive, but I have been extremely satisfied with my relationship with Chan and hope to order five or six more garments (suits or jackets, mostly the latter) from them before retiring in a couple of years.
post #70 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by olemungu View Post
I emailed him couple days ago, and he told me that he'll ship it out by end of the month.

what's the email address you used? is it the Gmail one?
post #71 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuitingStyle View Post
what's the email address you used? is it the Gmail one?

yup.
post #72 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLibourel View Post
Hunh???? That's a new one on me. Admittedly, I am an "older person," but when I bought my 22-year-old stepson a deep blue pinstripe early this year, he didn't complain.
Regarding blue: After reading these forums for a few weeks, I think it's just my school that finds colours old. Almost everyone in my business school will be wearing a black suit (men and women). My mother actually suggested a charcoal suit but I didn't want to stand out. Looks like mom was right (?). I got a black suit, now I actually want a blue suit but I'm averse to gold or silver buttons, I'm not sure how they'd look on me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLibourel View Post
Scabal has an extensive range of fabrics, as does Zegna. I suspect there is considerable overlap in pricing. To get a really good idea of which is better value, you would have to compare the pricing on very closely equivalent fabrics. A lightweight jacket made from a Scabal fresco that I got from Chan this spring cost a bit less ($71 less, to be exact) than a blazer I just got made from one of the Holland & Sherry "Snowy River" worsteds. Zegna is certainly not inexpensive--that much I can tell you!
Is there any resource online that explains the difference in fabrics? I've been searching but I haven't found anything encompassing. I've read a little about worsted wools but I'm not no expert. As a beginner, are there any fabrics that I should have a suit made of before purchasing into the more expensive/exotic wools? I'm looking for a good fabric that won't be too hot but I'm not sure whether if a higher super wool is warmer/cooler and how they compare to brands like Zegna or Scabal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLibourel View Post
Have you settled on a tailor? I have no experience with Yao and can only note that forum comment on his work is generally positive, but I have been extremely satisfied with my relationship with Chan and hope to order five or six more garments (suits or jackets, mostly the latter) from them before retiring in a couple of years.
I'm still looking for a tailor. I was pretty much set on Chan until I got to this thread but I still think I'll stick with Chan. My Chinese isn't very fluent, although my friends could speak for me.. The thing is, when I asked if my friends knew where Chan's location was and gave them his address, my friends said Chan's going to be an old man (implying that he'd be out of touch and create "old men garments").
post #73 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viktri View Post
Regarding blue: After reading these forums for a few weeks, I think it's just my school that finds colours old. Almost everyone in my business school will be wearing a black suit (men and women). My mother actually suggested a charcoal suit but I didn't want to stand out. Looks like mom was right (?). I got a black suit, now I actually want a blue suit but I'm averse to gold or silver buttons, I'm not sure how they'd look on me.

You shouldn't get gold or silver buttons on a suit - you only get them on a blazer (a coat, which does not come with matching pants).

You should get regular buttons on your suit. I think the buttons on my solid navy blue suit are black or dark navy blue or dark brown or something like that. Really dark.
post #74 of 249
I'm interested to see how these suits turn out. I've seen Ascot Chang bespoke suits before and thought the quality of the tailoring was pretty good. If Yao can do a soft suit, then maybe I will try my first bespoke with him.
post #75 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viktri View Post
I'm still looking for a tailor. I was pretty much set on Chan until I got to this thread but I still think I'll stick with Chan. My Chinese isn't very fluent, although my friends could speak for me..

According to this thread, and my own experience, Gordon speaks excellent English so I would be surprised if language were the reason to pick Chan over Yao. Ironically, it was at Chan where I had more language difficulties, as whoever cut my suit did not speak English, and the salesman had to translate what I wanted into Cantonese. Again, that is just my experience on visiting Chan in HK and I am aware that those who ordered on roadshows, etc. have had different experiences. However, I am comforted to know that for my Yao suit, Gordon was the one measuring me and was the one who was cutting my suit -- the essential element of bespoke tailoring. Better reasons to pick Chan would be their established reputation, organization, selection of options, etc...

You will never get silver/gold buttons for a business suit. As mentioned below, this is typically for blazers or uniforms. Get buttons that match the tone of the fabric. As for fabric, it is fine that you are intent on getting a "˜brand name' fabric, as long as you are willing to pay the premium. What the people at Chan will likely suggest is VBC 130s or LP 120s. Both are good "˜starter fabrics' (though there are some serious LP haters on SF) and will wear well IMO. Everything else is up to you. Selecting fabrics is never easy even if you know exactly what you want (unless you have the fabric you want beforehand). Really just go with your gut feel and ask the tailor if they have anything currently being made using something of similar pattern/color/weight so you can compare. If you just search the forums, there are tons of posts that will explain everything in much better detail.

Will get around to posting Chan vs. Yao pictures sometime.. worth a new thread?
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