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Gordon Yao - Page 14

post #196 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post
... I never had a suit from Chan but from pics I've seen here (the infamous Shanghai thread) and what I've heard, Yao might do a better, cleaner look than they do, but I can't confirm. Chan's shirt however is very nice... I like rigid collars and cuffs, and they did a good job of making it the style I was looking for. ...
Fwiw, here's a pic of my Chan suit, from the HK team (I'm on the right). I think they did a spectacular job. I've showed it to some guys irl who "use" the much more expensive Italian and English tailors and the one criticism they could come up with in terms of fit was that the shoulders could be more extended by about 1/8" in the front (not the back): This jacket is also made with shirt sleeves and completely unpadded/unroped shoulders, which I believe you wrote elsewhere that you're seeking. The sleeve has some ripples, but that's due entirely to my pose (shoulders pulled back a bit). If I stood in the robot pose, the sleeves would be perfectly clean. They really are gorgeous. I need to get my camera fixed so I can take my own shots. This was taken at a wedding. Btw, my brother on the left is in a Hugo Boss suit, which probably cost about the same as the Chan suit.
post #197 of 249
Looks great Svenn! I was in Hong Kong back in April and had both Chan and Gordon Yao make me a suit, giving both tailors the same brief. I wanted very natural shoulders and very light canvass on both. As it turnout the Chan suit came out much better then Gordon Yaos. Even after asking Gordon to soften the shoulders at the first fitting, it is still too rigid for my liking. Patrick Chu at Chan however was more approachable at my request. Willing to make the shoulders with very little padding and using the lightest canvass. For those that prefers a more structural suit, Yao is still very good value.
I will try to post some pics when I get a chance.
post #198 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post
^Thanks all. I had my initial misgivings with Yao because I didn't get the perfect armscye I wanted, and there was a fairly major problem in the hips/small of my back... but now that I've 'broken in' the suit more I'm actually fairly pleased with it. And at $700 it's a great deal... just don't expect a Savile Row level of bespoke. I never had a suit from Chan but from pics I've seen here (the infamous Shanghai thread) and what I've heard, Yao might do a better, cleaner look than they do, but I can't confirm. Chan's shirt however is very nice... I like rigid collars and cuffs, and they did a good job of making it the style I was looking for.

From these pics and the ones you posted in another thread, I think it's a pretty good result for your first commission with him. Just curious: why did you get your shirt from WWC instead of Yao?


Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post
I will try to post some pics when I get a chance.

Please do; that would make a great comparison thread.
post #199 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post
Patrick Chu at Chan however was more approachable at my request. Willing to make the shoulders with very little padding and using the lightest canvass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post
This jacket is also made with shirt sleeves and completely unpadded/unroped shoulders, which I believe you wrote elsewhere that you're seeking.

Good to know... but can Chan do a very high, fitted armscye? That's the main thing I want, but I know it takes a lot of extra labor and time. Yao didn't seem like he'd done it before, and the armholes are still several cm below my natural armpit. Also, are the 'Neapolitan pleats' in the upper sleeve, as you described, actually ironed-in there such that's it's a very mobile sleevehead? or is it just decoration?

That's great about unpadded shoulders, I thought I read though that Chan couldn't do completely unpadded?
post #200 of 249
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post
Good to know... but can Chan do a very high, fitted armscye? That's the main thing I want, but I know it takes a lot of extra labor and time. Yao didn't seem like he'd done it before, and the armholes are still several cm below my natural armpit. Also, are the 'Neapolitan pleats' in the upper sleeve, as you described, actually ironed-in there such that's it's a very mobile sleevehead? or is it just decoration?

That's great about unpadded shoulders, I thought I read though that Chan couldn't do completely unpadded?

I think alot of tailors ae hesitant to do totally unpadded shoulders because some epople have sloped shoulders or what not and not correcting it would almost defeat the purpose of bespoke.
post #201 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon8 View Post
I think alot of tailors ae hesitant to do totally unpadded shoulders because some epople have sloped shoulders or what not and not correcting it would almost defeat the purpose of bespoke.

It's not just the slope. A shoulder line naturally is not smooth for most people - there are muscles and bones that protrude and will create bumps if the jacket is completely unpadded. As long as the customer knows that, it's fine. But tailors are concerned - and rightfully so IMO - that they will deliver a product that the customer will be unhappy about and deemed flawed when they actually delivered what they want rather than compensate natural shoulder shape with some light padding.

I know my shoulder line is not straight and smooth and I'm fine with my jackets' shoulders not looking line a smooth straight lie - I prefer it to the alternative. However, I would think I'm in a minority here and that most customers asking for no padding whatsoever are not fully aware of the implications of that choice.
post #202 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
I know my shoulder line is not straight and smooth and I'm fine with my jackets' shoulders not looking line a smooth straight lie - I prefer it to the alternative. However, I would think I'm in a minority here and that most customers asking for no padding whatsoever are not fully aware of the implications of that choice.

I fully support this message.


- B
post #203 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
I fully support this message. - B
So do I.
post #204 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon8 View Post
I think alot of tailors ae hesitant to do totally unpadded shoulders because some epople have sloped shoulders or what not and not correcting it would almost defeat the purpose of bespoke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
It's not just the slope. A shoulder line naturally is not smooth for most people - there are muscles and bones that protrude and will create bumps if the jacket is completely unpadded. As long as the customer knows that, it's fine. But tailors are concerned - and rightfully so IMO - that they will deliver a product that the customer will be unhappy about and deemed flawed when they actually delivered what they want rather than compensate natural shoulder shape with some light padding.

I know my shoulder line is not straight and smooth and I'm fine with my jackets' shoulders not looking line a smooth straight lie - I prefer it to the alternative. However, I would think I'm in a minority here and that most customers asking for no padding whatsoever are not fully aware of the implications of that choice.

+1, Most tailors will use padding to hide all the lumps and bumps on the shoulders. After my first fitting with Chan, Patrick suggested to using a very thin wadding to level out my shoulders.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post
Good to know... but can Chan do a very high, fitted armscye? That's the main thing I want, but I know it takes a lot of extra labor and time. Yao didn't seem like he'd done it before, and the armholes are still several cm below my natural armpit. Also, are the 'Neapolitan pleats' in the upper sleeve, as you described, actually ironed-in there such that's it's a very mobile sleevehead? or is it just decoration?

That's great about unpadded shoulders, I thought I read though that Chan couldn't do completely unpadded?

Yes, Chan can do a very fitted armscye, so can Gordon Yao. You just have to be persistent about it from the beginning.
post #205 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post
Good to know... but can Chan do a very high, fitted armscye? ...

Also, are the 'Neapolitan pleats' in the upper sleeve, as you described, actually ironed-in there such that's it's a very mobile sleevehead? or is it just decoration?

I think it's very high. Much higher than anything else I have. For example, I teach, and when I write on the chalk board, the lapels stay put. But you once said your standard for high was to be able to lift your arm straight up to hold a subway pole without your lapels lifting at all, or something like that. It's not that high, but I doubt any height would allow that.

I don't know enough about sleeve construction to answer your second question. But I assume it's not just decorative.
post #206 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
I know my shoulder line is not straight and smooth and I'm fine with my jackets' shoulders not looking line a smooth straight lie - I prefer it to the alternative. However, I would think I'm in a minority here and that most customers asking for no padding whatsoever are not fully aware of the implications of that choice.

You're not alone; same here.
post #207 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by gomanred View Post
I am giving him a try tomorrow or Monday and will get his US tour schedule while at the shop.

Based upon the reviews here, I am taking a leap of faith and using him on a suit.

Most likely Scabel Blue Label fabric (hope that is spelled right) in a pin stripe. I use A-Man (AMHC) usually, but trying to broaden my tailors.


did you ever happen to get that us tour schedule? I don't see anything on the Ascot Chang website about Yao coming to the US with them on tour.
post #208 of 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by cincinnatus2 View Post
Anyone know what his US Touring schedule is this year or next year?

He will be in the US between October 30th - November 27th. Don't have the schedule details though.
post #209 of 249
I received this schedule a couple days ago by e-mail.


CITY DATE HOTEL PHONE

NEW YORK CITY Nov. 1 thr. 6 PENINSULA HOTEL (212) 956-2888
NEW YORK 700 Fifth Ave. at 55th Street
New York, N.Y. 10019-4100

BOSTON Nov. 8 THE FAIRMONT COPLEY PLAZA (617) 267-5300
MASS 138 St. James Avenue
Boston, MA. 02116

HOUSTON Nov. 10 THE WESTIN OAKS (713 ) 960-8100
TEXAS 5011 Westheimer at Post Oak
Houston, TX. 77056

MIAMI Nov. 12 HYATT REGENCY CORAL GABLES (305) 441-1234
FLORIDA 50 Alhambra Plaza
Coral Gables, FL. 33134

W. PALM BEACH Nov. 14 WEST PALM BEACH MARRIOTT (561) 833-1234
FLORIDA 1001 Okeechobee Boulevard
West Palm Beach, FL. 33401

CHICAGO Nov. 16 thr. 17 FAIRMONT HOTEL (312) 565-8000
ILLINOIS 200 North Columbus Drive
Chicago, IL. 60601

LOS ANGELES Nov. 19 thr. 20 MONTAGE HOTEL BEVERLY HILLS (310) 860-7800
CALIFORNIA 225 North Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA. 90210

SAN FRANCISCO Nov. 22 thr. 23 FAIRMONT HOTEL (415) 772-5000
CALIFORNIA Atop Nob Hill, 950 Mason St.
San Francisco, CA. 94108

ITEMS TO BE OFFERED:- SUITS , SPORTCOAT, SLACKS AND TOPCOATS.
A complete new range of best English woollen material swatches will be available for your selection. I should be grateful if you would kindly contact me by phone for an appointment. It would also be most kind of you if you would recommend my service to your relatives, friends and neighbours. When ordering this time, it is advisable to wear the suit or jacket of your last order to show me for checking the measurements and style. Thank you for your continuous patronage and looking forward to the pleasure of serving you again.
post #210 of 249
I post these images on another thread http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...=201672&page=3
I thought it mat be useful here.

I had used Gordon Yao to make me a suit last time I was in Hong Kong, overall it was a pleasant experience. A few minor issues but for a first time it turn out not too bad. The fabric was a Fox Flannel which I supply. Normally I use WW Chan when I am in Hong Kong. Since Chan doesn't do CMT I decided to try out Yao on this trip. On the right is WW Chan in light weight VBC wool just for comparison. The Yao is on the left.


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