So - my love for finer shoes started with Alden and many of us who have flatter feet, lower arches, narrower heels tend to find it difficult to shop for these gorgeous shoes. Through much trial and error I have narrowed down my sizes and provided my thoughts on various lasts below. I have started only with the Aldens I am the most familiar with but I will continue to update this with other brands (Edward Green, Crockett and Jones/RL, Meermin, Carmina, etc). Hopefully this will become a very helpful resource for those blessed with more problematic feet! Please keep in mind that different styles and materials on the same last may feel different - for example, a captoe/wingtip generally feels snugger than its plain toe counterpart due to the additional material. Also, an Indy boot made from Chromexcel is far more likely to stretch than its Shell Cordovan counterpart. These factors, combined with the fact that your foot WILL sink into the leather/cork footbed are all things to consider.
Before we begin: I’d like to start by saying that an easy fix for those of us with low instep/arch is to add a felt tongue pad under the tongue. This takes up some of that room and pushes your foot back towards the heel, keeping it in place. Do take care to “try” it on by taping it to the tongue before you afix it permanently. I’d recommend trimming it if necessary to achieve maximum comfort. If you have narrow heels, you can opt for a heel grip/pad. They come in different materials, my preference being suede, they can be used to take up some space on a narrow heel, or even negate the difference of slightly different sized feet!
My feet measure as a 9D on the Brannock device. I have a narrower heel, wider forefoot, and low arch (as a result, low instep/volume). Flat feet collapse when under weight, which is why it is hard to find shoes - they may feel comfortable when first tried on but can prove to be totally unwearable later on - this is especially true for materials that don’t stretch as much, like Shell Cordovan.
Alden Aberdeen - 9D
Although they look narrow and somewhat “pointy”, the last seems to run a little bit long. The instep height is pretty neutral, if not lower and I think that is the reason why many loafers are shaped over the Aberdeen. (Think shell tassel loafers).
Alden Barrie - 8.5D
One of the most popular lasts, many of the special makeups and the ever-popular LWBs (long wing bluchers) are shaped over this. It is definitely my least favorite last, as it looks vague and lacks character - however, it does look fine when used on PTBs and such. You’ll want to size down by a half size from your Brannock Measurement, though I would suggest considering the 8.5E (due to reasons highlighted below), see if that works!
The instep does not work well for us flat-footed folk as it is very high. This problem is exaggerated when wearing Barrie lasted boots and one has a narrow ankle as well - you’ll be lacing the sides very closely together, which can cause discomfort.
As many have voiced, the heel is very wide and the forefoot area is wide as well. However, in my experience, the width seems to taper off quickly from the ball to the toe area, leaving my toes a bit crowded.
My least favorite fit; so vague and not much character. The instep is relatively high (if not very), which works terribly for my low instep and arch. The heel is very wide as many have said and the forefoot area is wide but seems to taper and crowds my pinky toes.
Alden Grant - 9D
The Grant last is not often seen but it seems to make for a great boot last, which is why we’re starting to see more and more makeups for boots on this last. This last is rather roomy, but not to the point where your feet are swimming inside. This extra room means that thicker socks (vs my typical thinner dress sock) would work very well.
I found this last to have plenty of toe space and length (seems to run a touch wide and long) and is exceptionally comfortable when your foot starts to swell at the end of the day. The heel is pretty “normal”, narrower than the Barrie but wider than the Plaza (see below). Instep on this boot is pretty neutral, it can work for lower insteps like myself.
Alden Plaza - 9D
My favorite last by a pretty long shot. Fans of this last love it because it arguably has the most character out of all the Alden lasts - the slightly squared off toe gives it a handsome, chiseled look. For me, these fit like a glove right out of the box. The heel is a little narrower and works very well in securing it without any type of discomfort (you won’t feel your heel sliding around as it would in the Barrie and Trubalance).
Although some have said the Plaza runs long, I don’t think I’ve found it to be true for me, the length works well as does the width. I prefer my shoes to fit closely, and these do the trick. The instep is on the lower side and looks perfect for lower instep folk who want to wear a pair of balmorals. From experience, the Aberdeen and the Grant are ever so slightly longer of usable room.
Alden Trubalance - 8.5D
The well-known Trubalance last is what the legendary Indy boot was shaped around. Like the Barrie, the Trubalance runs a half size large vs your Brannock measurement (rule of thumb). Originally intended for Orthopedic use, it works very well for those with pronation (pretty much all of you flat-footed kids, like myself), splayed feet, and even the normal foot. It’s not a beautiful (sleek) looking last, but it looks pretty great when used on boots!
While the heel is still somewhat wide, the last manages to keep your foot from sliding around as it might in the Barrie. The instep is pretty neutral and certainly not as high as the Barrie. There is plenty of space for the toes. Like the Grant, I think the Trubalance works better with thicker socks, as the last is higher volume.
Those with low arches/flat feet will appreciate the Thomas Heel featured on the standard Indy boots, the extended portion of the heel on the inner sides of the shoe/boot provides additional support that needs to be experienced in order to be appreciated. I’ve even dedicated a pair to hiking/camping in.
To be continued (Coming up: EG, C&J)
Before we begin: I’d like to start by saying that an easy fix for those of us with low instep/arch is to add a felt tongue pad under the tongue. This takes up some of that room and pushes your foot back towards the heel, keeping it in place. Do take care to “try” it on by taping it to the tongue before you afix it permanently. I’d recommend trimming it if necessary to achieve maximum comfort. If you have narrow heels, you can opt for a heel grip/pad. They come in different materials, my preference being suede, they can be used to take up some space on a narrow heel, or even negate the difference of slightly different sized feet!
My feet measure as a 9D on the Brannock device. I have a narrower heel, wider forefoot, and low arch (as a result, low instep/volume). Flat feet collapse when under weight, which is why it is hard to find shoes - they may feel comfortable when first tried on but can prove to be totally unwearable later on - this is especially true for materials that don’t stretch as much, like Shell Cordovan.
Alden Aberdeen - 9D
Although they look narrow and somewhat “pointy”, the last seems to run a little bit long. The instep height is pretty neutral, if not lower and I think that is the reason why many loafers are shaped over the Aberdeen. (Think shell tassel loafers).
Alden Barrie - 8.5D
One of the most popular lasts, many of the special makeups and the ever-popular LWBs (long wing bluchers) are shaped over this. It is definitely my least favorite last, as it looks vague and lacks character - however, it does look fine when used on PTBs and such. You’ll want to size down by a half size from your Brannock Measurement, though I would suggest considering the 8.5E (due to reasons highlighted below), see if that works!
The instep does not work well for us flat-footed folk as it is very high. This problem is exaggerated when wearing Barrie lasted boots and one has a narrow ankle as well - you’ll be lacing the sides very closely together, which can cause discomfort.
As many have voiced, the heel is very wide and the forefoot area is wide as well. However, in my experience, the width seems to taper off quickly from the ball to the toe area, leaving my toes a bit crowded.
My least favorite fit; so vague and not much character. The instep is relatively high (if not very), which works terribly for my low instep and arch. The heel is very wide as many have said and the forefoot area is wide but seems to taper and crowds my pinky toes.
Alden Grant - 9D
The Grant last is not often seen but it seems to make for a great boot last, which is why we’re starting to see more and more makeups for boots on this last. This last is rather roomy, but not to the point where your feet are swimming inside. This extra room means that thicker socks (vs my typical thinner dress sock) would work very well.
I found this last to have plenty of toe space and length (seems to run a touch wide and long) and is exceptionally comfortable when your foot starts to swell at the end of the day. The heel is pretty “normal”, narrower than the Barrie but wider than the Plaza (see below). Instep on this boot is pretty neutral, it can work for lower insteps like myself.
Alden Plaza - 9D
My favorite last by a pretty long shot. Fans of this last love it because it arguably has the most character out of all the Alden lasts - the slightly squared off toe gives it a handsome, chiseled look. For me, these fit like a glove right out of the box. The heel is a little narrower and works very well in securing it without any type of discomfort (you won’t feel your heel sliding around as it would in the Barrie and Trubalance).
Although some have said the Plaza runs long, I don’t think I’ve found it to be true for me, the length works well as does the width. I prefer my shoes to fit closely, and these do the trick. The instep is on the lower side and looks perfect for lower instep folk who want to wear a pair of balmorals. From experience, the Aberdeen and the Grant are ever so slightly longer of usable room.
Alden Trubalance - 8.5D
The well-known Trubalance last is what the legendary Indy boot was shaped around. Like the Barrie, the Trubalance runs a half size large vs your Brannock measurement (rule of thumb). Originally intended for Orthopedic use, it works very well for those with pronation (pretty much all of you flat-footed kids, like myself), splayed feet, and even the normal foot. It’s not a beautiful (sleek) looking last, but it looks pretty great when used on boots!
While the heel is still somewhat wide, the last manages to keep your foot from sliding around as it might in the Barrie. The instep is pretty neutral and certainly not as high as the Barrie. There is plenty of space for the toes. Like the Grant, I think the Trubalance works better with thicker socks, as the last is higher volume.
Those with low arches/flat feet will appreciate the Thomas Heel featured on the standard Indy boots, the extended portion of the heel on the inner sides of the shoe/boot provides additional support that needs to be experienced in order to be appreciated. I’ve even dedicated a pair to hiking/camping in.
To be continued (Coming up: EG, C&J)
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