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Another Korean Bespoke Suit Fitting

post #1 of 51
Thread Starter 
For the first time, I commissioned cumtom-made suit from another tailor shop, not Sartoria Vanni which I used to order a suit.

The name of the store is 'Spolverino' I think a few of you guys living in Korea have heard of this shop.

(BTW, as you know, Spolverino is an italian word meaning 'a jacket or a coat which is made without lining or canvas'. However, the store 'Spolverino' does not produce 'Spolverino-ed' suits only. and my one is lined and canvassed. Spolverino-ed one's price is much higher than normal ones. Because it costs more fabric and they stitches much of that part(inside) by hand)

The store opened in Feb. this year and IMO, successfully positioned in the Korean high-price bespoke suit market. The representative director maps out the store's style, and the tailor(who is prominent figure in korean tailoring field) make it into a real piece. You can see their products at www.hanrhan.com if you also want to 'read', you better browse it with google translator.

Come back to the original subject,

Though this is the first order, as you see in the pictures, Fitting is very fine. There might be different preferences on their style, at least this is fairly nice in tailoring respect I think. Interesting feature about this suit is that the tailor used extended front dart style but not make side body and fore part into one-piece. I knew that they used to use extended front dart and one-piece front, but they use other technique on my suit. Full chested effect is observed and also fine handwork on padding stitch is also captured(I will post the completed suit when they finish. You will see the enormous handwork of theirs) The suit will be completed in this week, I'm so look for it.




* I forgot to take a picture of the back, it was clean. I will post the back picture when I received the completed suit.




Basted Fitting





232

528

446












Forward Fitting





469

232

232

510

469

528

528

528
Edited by ho1joon - 6/12/12 at 9:08am
post #2 of 51
Looks very good. There is some very good work done in Korea. Have always heard that shops have different ratings regarding the style and quality of work they do. Do you know anything about this?
post #3 of 51
Looks great. What fabric did you choose?
post #4 of 51
Thanks for sharing. Looks great.
post #5 of 51
great work
post #6 of 51
Isn't that's the poshest tailor shop in Koera? look very nice
post #7 of 51
Looks good already, it will be interesting to see the finished suit and compare it. You have good taste, have selected your tailors well and get them to do a good job for you.
post #8 of 51
If anyone is interested this is a good visual of a unique way try-ons are prepared by Korean Tailors.

The first try-on has no pockets or darts cut. Nothing permanent is done on the cloth. Equivalent of a muslin try-on.Tailors in other countries do the same but the way they baste the cloth and canvass together is unique here. The cloth is laid face down to the canvass and basted along the front edge, then flipped over so the face of the cloth is on the canvass. This gives a finished edge when trying the jacket. This step is unique to Korean methods. Long, easy basting to hold the canvass in place and you have a first fitting. The long seams on the jacket and sleeves are overlapped and top basted to hold them together. Saves time by not basting the seam,opening seams with an iron and then top basting, and no creases from pressing to remove. Taking the time for a fitting like this shows the integrity of the tailor to the process of making a suit and doing his best for a client.

Second fitting has the cloth basted to the canvass in the conventional manner. The darts are cut and sewn, breast pocket and lower pockets are sewn in. The edges are turned and basted. That's why you see the cloth turned over on the edges here and not on the first try-on. Nothing has changed with the sleeves.

Jacket looks like it is well balanced and will have some style. The front dart is extended to the hem and it looks like they are using a side body too. That's unusual.
This may be a more expensive shop but they are doing things well.
post #9 of 51
ho1joon's threads are some of my favorite ones around here.

nod[1].gifinlove.gifbigstar[1].gif
post #10 of 51
Thank you ho1joon for sharing this and best wishes on the suit progress. Thank you Despos for your input. This is very educational.
post #11 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Looks very good. There is some very good work done in Korea. Have always heard that shops have different ratings regarding the style and quality of work they do. Do you know anything about this?


a few of the shops(e.g. SEGI) used to have diffrent ratings which is seperated by labels(SEGI for example, They had 'Bespoke', 'Bespoke Classic', and 'Napoli Sarto') However as far as I know, these seperations are almost obsoleted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by quar View Post

Looks great. What fabric did you choose?

I picked it from Drago 130's bunch.
Edited by ho1joon - 6/13/12 at 3:24am
post #12 of 51
.
Edited by incontro - 7/14/12 at 4:11am
post #13 of 51
Excellent stuff.

Incontro, if you don't mind me asking - what in particular was so disappointing about your SR experience?
post #14 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post

Excellent stuff.
Incontro, if you don't mind me asking - what in particular was so disappointing about your SR experience?

In my opinion, it takes a great effort to ensure the big SR tailors to do their work with care, it is quiet hard for the non frequent customer
post #15 of 51
Fascinating.
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