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ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc. - Page 65

post #961 of 1123
Ah man, you guys got me so excited about AS now. Really surprised at the value proposition given the activity of this thread pales in comparison to Vass, Carmina, C&J, and Meermin. In the next sale I think I'm going to buy 4 or 5 models. Now I wonder how AS Handgrade compares... One would think it is Vass / GG / EG / JL level since there is nowhere left to go. If only they offered it in size 6 UK!
post #962 of 1123
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironist View Post

Ah man, you guys got me so excited about AS now. Really surprised at the value proposition given the activity of this thread pales in comparison to Vass, Carmina, C&J, and Meermin. In the next sale I think I'm going to buy 4 or 5 models. Now I wonder how AS Handgrade compares... One would think it is Vass / GG / EG / JL level since there is nowhere left to go. If only they offered it in size 6 UK!

I find the fit similar to rain last from Carmina (I wear same size in both.)
post #963 of 1123
Quote:
Originally Posted by agedashidofu View Post

I find the fit similar to rain last from Carmina (I wear same size in both.)
The 724 is similar to rain? Or which last?
post #964 of 1123
Quote:
Originally Posted by rc121 View Post

The 724 is similar to rain? Or which last?
724 yes
post #965 of 1123
Thread Starter 
Personally, as one who wears UK 6F in AS, I find it to have good room a the ball with a tight waist and good heel cup fit. For the price, it is a good value. They are just gaining steam since they had some organizational changes many years ago but for the past few years they have established a good business model (at least from my perspective as a customer). Their leather is not as nice as G&G and their burnishing is not as creative as EG, but again, those are hundreds more in comparison.

I definitely prefer AS over Carmina (I've never owned Meermin so I cannot comment) but it's just my preference towards "sturdier" feel of shoes. Vass is an interesting comparison since they cater to a different look I think. My issue with Vass sometimes is that they are not as consistent with their final product (which is to a point expected with their manufacturing model).

Although I have a number of JL, I do find them overpriced for stock shoes.
post #966 of 1123
Are you referring to AS exclusive?
post #967 of 1123
Thread Starter 
Yes, AS Exclusive. I also think AS Country range is very good; I do not have any HG at this point so I cannot comment yet.
post #968 of 1123
AS is very underrated. I have the Alex Jodphur boot on the 724 and I love it. The sole finishing is awesome and the upper leather quality is just a good as a CJ handgrade. I also own 2 pairs of CJ handgrade, I just lean more towards my AS.
post #969 of 1123
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironist View Post

Ah man, you guys got me so excited about AS now. Really surprised at the value proposition given the activity of this thread pales in comparison to Vass, Carmina, C&J, and Meermin. In the next sale I think I'm going to buy 4 or 5 models. Now I wonder how AS Handgrade compares... One would think it is Vass / GG / EG / JL level since there is nowhere left to go. If only they offered it in size 6 UK!

I have four Exclusives and two Country. Very happy with all of them and especially the Exclusives.
I'd rate them just below C&J Handgrade; on par in attention to details and finish, superior in sole/waist treatment and a bit sub-par on upper leather. In comparison to Vass, of which I own three pairs, AS E is superior in finishing, consistency and attention to detail but obviously below in construction with Vass being handlasted and handwelted.

I do not own any AS Handgrade but from what I've seen I'd say they are more or less on G&G level.

So both are good value for the price, and at 25% off! free lasted trees and free shipping an amazing deal!
post #970 of 1123
I would also stick to Exclusive range, the value proposition for the HG isn't as good.
post #971 of 1123

Anyone else who was told the AS 'F' last is equivalent to other makers 'E' last, and found out it is really a F, and the shoe fits horribly? Also, the piece of leather under the tongue at the bottom digs into the upper of your foot...

 

The leather looks great out of the box, but its downhill from there. It`s not on par with C&J, thats gets better with age.

 

Just my frank opinion

post #972 of 1123
Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post

Anyone else who was told the AS 'F' last is equivalent to other makers 'E' last, and found out it is really a F, and the shoe fits horribly? Also, the piece of leather under the tongue at the bottom digs into the upper of your foot...

The leather looks great out of the box, but its downhill from there. It`s not on par with C&J, thats gets better with age.

Just my frank opinion

hm, may be just the last doesn't fit your feet, AS F fitting is pretty standard width compare to C&J E fitting.

May you share which AS shoe you got, and which C&J you got too?
post #973 of 1123

Sure, that is a possibility - I have the Moore if I recall. I have 6-7 C&J Handgrades - two lasts 337 is it, and 357? The numbers may be off, but I think there are only 2-3 lasts. I was told by the online retailer they were similar (AS and C&J), and thats why perhaps I`m not happy about this. But really anyone finds the C&J Clifford last 337 the same as an AS?

post #974 of 1123
I actually find the 337 last rather generous, even more so compare to 109 and 724, but I do take the same size for those.
post #975 of 1123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post

Sure, that is a possibility - I have the Moore if I recall. I have 6-7 C&J Handgrades - two lasts 337 is it, and 357? The numbers may be off, but I think there are only 2-3 lasts. I was told by the online retailer they were similar (AS and C&J), and thats why perhaps I`m not happy about this. But really anyone finds the C&J Clifford last 337 the same as an AS?

I would agree with Wurger that the standard for AS is F whereas the standard for C&J is E. This is also communicated by the manufacturers themselves. In regards to the comparison, I would agree that both AS and C&J are similar in sizing. Lasts will never be identical since there would be no point to have multiple lasts if the fit is the same (okay, maybe for varying toe styles). If C&J HG lasts fit you well then maybe that's the brand that works for you. I like the 724 better than C&J lasts since the heel cup is higher on AS shoes. The uppers of C&J HG is softer than AS Ex which makes it comfortable. Subjectively, I prefer my uppers to feel "hardier" so C&J HG are a minority of my shoes.

Find brands that work. EG, G&G, and AS (Alden shell for other reasons) works best. I have a number of shoes from other brands they just don't fit as well as the brands I mentioned. Maybe AS 724 isn't for you; the other lasts might work well though and since you can probably get 2 AS shoes on sale for the price of 1 C&J HG shoes (since they rarely go on sale), the choice would be up to you if the trade-off is worth exploration of AS.
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