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ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc. - Page 86

post #1276 of 1285
Quote:
Originally Posted by labravajazz View Post

Just fwiw the shoes in previous post are some years old and they are not even premium model but have worn very well, still look great. One thing I wonder is about the different levels of AS, I know there is exclusive etc, but how can you tell which is which? I know some have size and last in a little oval inlay like Edward Green.
I have one other pair of AS that has regular printed size on the inside wall and these in the previous photos above have hand written size and lst on the inside wall? Anyone know? Both my pairs have worn Every bit as well as CJ, JL, EG - btw premium models in general don't necessarily wear any better than standard models but just have finer details and possibly more refined fit IMO

AS Exclusive, IMHO, is above normal benchgrade C&J, but below EG.  

 

The AS uses great leathers, and the attention to the waist and sole (closed channel, narrow fiddleback waist) is incredible.  All of this is handwork.  

 

If they have open channel stitches in the sole (like C&J or Herrings by AS) then they are one grade lower.

post #1277 of 1285
I have some of the oldest exclusives (5-6 yrs old) and perhaps the very first pair of hand grades (an experimental pair) -- each worn maybe 130-150 times -- and they're all doing great. I'd agree w/ MDeK's comparisons above. Wish I'd ordered a couple more MTO's when they were still doing one-offs.
post #1278 of 1285
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeKelver View Post
 

AS Exclusive, IMHO, is above normal benchgrade C&J, but below EG.  

 

The AS uses great leathers, and the attention to the waist and sole (closed channel, narrow fiddleback waist) is incredible.  All of this is handwork.  

 

If they have open channel stitches in the sole (like C&J or Herrings by AS) then they are one grade lower.

Actually, the 1966 line made for Herring by AS has channeled soles. My shoes (Drake) definitely do. Those models are priced even higher than regular AS exclusives.

post #1279 of 1285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Topaze View Post
 

Actually, the 1966 line made for Herring by AS has channeled soles. My shoes (Drake) definitely do. Those models are priced even higher than regular AS exclusives.

There are two lines at Herrings, and that 1966 line is very very nice true.  How do you like the 1966 last? 

post #1280 of 1285

Well, at that time I was also considering Moore in Cherry, but chose Drake because of the color (to me, oxblood looks both richer and more conservative), design (Drake has less broguing) and the overall shape. They're very similar, but 1966 last looked decidedly softer to me, with smoother lines. Still, it's a rather sharp-looking last. It also seems to accommodate slightly wider feet nicely (only available in F fitting, though). In fact, if I was trying hard to find fault with the last, this is a point I'd use. I think Carmina, when making the Rain last, somehow did a better job at creating a last that nicely accommodates slightly wider feet and has a sleek chiseled toe. There is a bit more harmony in how Carmina's Rain looks, in other words. That's, of course highly subjective.

 

Still, Drake is a stunning shoe, and I really love it.

post #1281 of 1285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Topaze View Post

Well, at that time I was also considering Moore in Cherry, but chose Drake because of the color (to me, oxblood looks both richer and more conservative), design (Drake has less broguing) and the overall shape. They're very similar, but 1966 last looked decidedly softer to me, with smoother lines. Still, it's a rather sharp-looking last. It also seems to accommodate slightly wider feet nicely (only available in F fitting, though). In fact, if I was trying hard to find fault with the last, this is a point I'd use. I think Carmina, when making the Rain last, somehow did a better job at creating a last that nicely accommodates slightly wider feet and has a sleek chiseled toe. There is a bit more harmony in how Carmina's Rain looks, in other words. That's, of course highly subjective.

Still, Drake is a stunning shoe, and I really love it.

You wear Cherry Moores and they look so sharp that everyone comments favourably... but not everyone wants comments on their shoes. nod[1].gif
post #1282 of 1285

Oh, those shoes do get comments all right. Problem is, I firmly believe is that if a certain article of clothing (or the overall outfit) attracts attention, even in the form of compliments, then the person may not really be dressed well. Another problem is it's extremely hard not to attract attention while wearing anything better than glued shoes radiating their corrected grain glory in all directions (of, for that matter, even sneakers, indeed). If the baseline is very casual (in the worst sense) as it is, there is only so far one can go by trying to be dressed well without deviating too much from it, and good shoes tend to leave those boundaries pretty fast. Not as fast as ties and suits, of course, but still. Finding a balance is an undertaking in itself.

 

But I digress...

post #1283 of 1285
How is the quality of AS suede compared to Alden or Carmina? Photos are unclear if it's buttery soft and I've never end handled them directly.
post #1284 of 1285

Also, a shot of my two pairs of Alfred Sargent shoes. 

 

Cherry Moore on the 724 from AFPOS and Black Hatton on the 106 from NMWA

 

post #1285 of 1285

How does AS 109/724 last instep compared to Carmina Forest/Simpson last instep?

I have a low instep and I'm planning to get either Moore or Hunt in Cherry/Mahaogany. Thank you.

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