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ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc. - Page 81

post #1201 of 1214
Quote:
Originally Posted by DpprDr View Post

That's the difficulty sometimes with the collaborations. I wonder if it's from the buyer's perspective ("doesn't matter if it's narrower, just use the 'D' so buyers think it's normal witdh; an 'E' or 'F' would be confusing for them").

For the Hannovers, here they today, for my snowy day:
Alfred Sargent Hannover
From AFPoS

 

 

Brilliant trousers.

post #1202 of 1214

My first pair of Alfred Sargents, and first pair of black shoes in a long time.  Wilson cap toe from No Man Walks Alone.  A special makeup without the broguing.  Soft chisel toe 104 last.  Nice entry into CBD oxford/balmoral style.  Quality is very good, solid, maybe a bit stiffer than Crockett and Jones, and true to my 10UK size.  C&J perhaps have a bit nicer leather, but we'll see after a few wears and brushing. 

 

post #1203 of 1214
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by letsi View Post

Do you guys mean all your shoes turned out like this after wears? Leather gets wrinkled from normal wear but not warped unevenly like what were shown in the pictures...
These shoes would have been marked and sold as seconds if they're caught by Allen Edmond's QC and AE is 1 or 2 tiers lower on the SF shoe makers' hierarchy. Pretty sure that the guys in the Appreciating AE threads would be sending these back if they bought it as firsts, or even as seconds...
Early on I owned numerous AE and I would not consider anywhere close to AE seconds. I think the "warped" looks more pronounced because of the angular 724 last. Even compared to other AS lasts, I think the 724 is very different in lines. Others can decide what they would do with purchases and the shoes look like they might not sit long enough in the last (but I'm no cordwainer so I could be miles wrong) for that effect, but these are some consequences of buying online.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickCarraway View Post

Brilliant trousers.
Thanks Nick!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeKelver View Post

My first pair of Alfred Sargents, and first pair of black shoes in a long time.  Wilson cap toe from No Man Walks Alone.  A special makeup without the broguing.  Soft chisel toe 104 last.  Nice entry into CBD oxford/balmoral style.  Quality is very good, solid, maybe a bit stiffer than Crockett and Jones, and true to my 10UK size.  C&J perhaps have a bit nicer leather, but we'll see after a few wears and brushing. 

Do you have other AS shoes? From the measurements I've received in the last, the 104 seemed slightly smaller (akin to the old 99). I agree AS' leather is "stiffer" but I personally like that sturdiness. In regards to the C&J comparison, are you referring to C&J's HG or BG? My thoughts ASE runs between C&J HG and BG when it comes to quality. Just my personal thoughts. Enjoy your shoes!
post #1204 of 1214
Quote:
Originally Posted by DpprDr View Post


Do you have other AS shoes? From the measurements I've received in the last, the 104 seemed slightly smaller (akin to the old 99). I agree AS' leather is "stiffer" but I personally like that sturdiness. In regards to the C&J comparison, are you referring to C&J's HG or BG? My thoughts ASE runs between C&J HG and BG when it comes to quality. Just my personal thoughts. Enjoy your shoes!

Dr,

 

I have no other AS shoes.  I would say that as a 10UK, this are certainly a smaller fit.  The toebox is not elongated, but more of a chiseled round toe.  And the instep is very snug, notice the space in the vamp.  For comparison, I consider myself having a lower instep, and in Carmina Simpson last (a snug narrow last)  I can close the vamp for a very snug fit.  

 

Funny thing is, I find the heel a bit loose in the AS104 last.  But let me break them in and this may change.  C&J 348 in 10UK offers me a bit more room up front, and a narrower heel which fits snug.  Maybe I should have looked at the 109 last which is more elongated.

 

My C&J experience is limited to Lowndes in the 348 last, Bench Grade.  I find the leather quite high quality, and the 348 last is a bit sleeker than the AS 104.   The AS is very sexy through the waist and heel.  The most interesting thing about them is the part that you walk on... 

 

I have a lot of AE shoes, and #5 last in 11E or 11.5D are hit and miss, but never really great.  I have entered into Northampton manufacturers, and this is probably where the best shoes for me are located.

post #1205 of 1214

Maiden voyage of my Moore from AFPOS. Waited for a dry day in NYC to break these out. Can't wait to use some black polish to add a touch stronger burnished look. 

 

post #1206 of 1214
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeKelver View Post

Dr,

I have no other AS shoes.  I would say that as a 10UK, this are certainly a smaller fit.  The toebox is not elongated, but more of a chiseled round toe.  And the instep is very snug, notice the space in the vamp.  For comparison, I consider myself having a lower instep, and in Carmina Simpson last (a snug narrow last)  I can close the vamp for a very snug fit.   Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Funny thing is, I find the heel a bit loose in the AS104 last. But let me break them in and this may change. C&J 348 in 10UK offers me a bit more room up front, and a narrower heel which fits snug. Maybe I should have looked at the 109 last which is more elongated.

My C&J experience is limited to Lowndes in the 348 last, Bench Grade. I find the leather quite high quality, and the 348 last is a bit sleeker than the AS 104. The AS is very sexy through the waist and heel. The most interesting thing about them is the part that you walk on...

I have a lot of AE shoes, and #5 last in 11E or 11.5D are hit and miss, but never really great. I have entered into Northampton manufacturers, and this is probably where the best shoes for me are located.
Thanks for the input. I think I've worn every AS last (87, 89, 99, 106, 109, & 724) but the 104 is one that I've never tried.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NWTeal View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Maiden voyage of my Moore from AFPOS. Waited for a dry day in NYC to break these out. Can't wait to use some black polish to add a touch stronger burnished look.


Looks good! My AS soles wore well in NYC streets. Get som patina out of them!
post #1207 of 1214
Quote:
Originally Posted by DpprDr View Post


Thanks for the input. I think I've worn every AS last (87, 89, 99, 106, 109, & 724) but the 104 is one that I've never tried.
 

Dr., What do you think about the 99 last?  A bit old fashioned? I am looking at this Milton. I'd like a sleek wholecut with a bit of detail like this.  Otherwise, I might look to C&J last (or hell, get on the G&G MTO)

 

http://www.bodileys.com/shoes/alfred-sargent-milton-oxford-shoe.html

post #1208 of 1214
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeKelver View Post

Dr., What do you think about the 99 last?  A bit old fashioned? I am looking at this Milton. I'd like a sleek wholecut with a bit of detail like this.  Otherwise, I might look to C&J last (or hell, get on the G&G MTO)

http://www.bodileys.com/shoes/alfred-sargent-milton-oxford-shoe.html
I personally think the 99 in a nice last with a REALLY soft chisel. To me, the 109 is the most "traditional" round toe with the 104 and 724 sharpening things up. G&G will definitely have nicer lines, but then you're paying more than twice as much. Compared to C&J, you'll get the ASE in between C&J's HG and BG. If you're thinking about a BG shoe, then I'd seriously look into ASE. The soles will wear longer and I like the feel of the uppers (although others have not noticed significant differences with the quality of the uppers).

Can't go wrong with your options!
post #1209 of 1214
Quote:
Originally Posted by DpprDr View Post


I personally think the 99 in a nice last with a REALLY soft chisel. To me, the 109 is the most "traditional" round toe with the 104 and 724 sharpening things up. G&G will definitely have nicer lines, but then you're paying more than twice as much. Compared to C&J, you'll get the ASE in between C&J's HG and BG. If you're thinking about a BG shoe, then I'd seriously look into ASE. The soles will wear longer and I like the feel of the uppers (although others have not noticed significant differences with the quality of the uppers).

Can't go wrong with your options!

Thanks very much. You are right, 99 is still a bit sleeker than a traditional round toe.  Looking at the AS lasts (http://alfredsargent.co.uk/test-pages/) would you say that the 99 is narrower in the toe than 109?  I wouldn't want to go narrower/shorter in the toe than the 104. I am not sure if the graphics of the lasts are scaled relatively to each other on that site, but it looks like the 99 would have a less roomy toe box than the 104. Edit: I can very snugly fit into Carmina's Simpson last in UK10.


Edited by MDeKelver - 12/6/14 at 9:55am
post #1210 of 1214
Hey, I have a question. I have a pair of the Ramsey's in a US 12 that fit pretty good, and I was looking at the Francis jodhpur that AS made for A Fine Pair of Shoes. Do you think the 11 UK would work size-wise? Thanks!
post #1211 of 1214
Quote:
Originally Posted by ascher07 View Post

Hey, I have a question. I have a pair of the Ramsey's in a US 12 that fit pretty good, and I was looking at the Francis jodhpur that AS made for A Fine Pair of Shoes. Do you think the 11 UK would work size-wise? Thanks!

Hi, If you send us your foot measurements in cm to info@afinepairofshoes.co.uk we can advise your accurately on the best size for you in our Francis boot.
post #1212 of 1214
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeKelver View Post

Thanks very much. You are right, 99 is still a bit sleeker than a traditional round toe.  Looking at the AS lasts (http://alfredsargent.co.uk/test-pages/) would you say that the 99 is narrower in the toe than 109?  I wouldn't want to go narrower/shorter in the toe than the 104. I am not sure if the graphics of the lasts are scaled relatively to each other on that site, but it looks like the 99 would have a less roomy toe box than the 104. Edit: I can very snugly fit into Carmina's Simpson last in UK10.
The 99 is shorter than the 109. From the measurements I've received, the 99 seems proportionate to the 104 (both are more fitted than the 109). Unfortunately, the graphics are not relative to scale. Since I don't own the 104, I can't comment if the difference of the toe also creates less/more volume.
post #1213 of 1214
Just placed an order for the Kelso in brown zug on commando with veldt. Ordered with Richard at Shoe Healer who seems like a cracking chap. They sound like they're going to be a monster of a boot - definitely looking forward to receiving them in March! Does anyone own this boot? Any pics?
post #1214 of 1214
Quote:
Originally Posted by DpprDr View Post


I personally think the 99 in a nice last with a REALLY soft chisel. To me, the 109 is the most "traditional" round toe with the 104 and 724 sharpening things up. G&G will definitely have nicer lines, but then you're paying more than twice as much. Compared to C&J, you'll get the ASE in between C&J's HG and BG. If you're thinking about a BG shoe, then I'd seriously look into ASE. The soles will wear longer and I like the feel of the uppers (although others have not noticed significant differences with the quality of the uppers).

Can't go wrong with your options!

The Milton's came in.  Very nice shoe.  99 last is shorter in the toebox, and yes, a very soft chisel.  Lower volume than the 104 last, but I am 10uk in both and also C&J 348 last.  The leather is excellent, whole grain, and very thick.  It took a lot of polishing and brushing to bring them up in the picture.  When they arrived, the leather was very grainy right from the factory.  I might have to get one toe stretched out on my large foot, other than that, beautiful shoe.  

 

I believe that this was the last pair from Bodiley's, and AS has advised me that this shoe is no longer in production.  But it will be done in a BG offering.

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