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ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc. - Page 8
Styleforum Top Pickspost #107 of 16663/1/13 at 6:56amThread Starterpost #108 of 16663/1/13 at 8:32am
How does AS exclusive measure up quality wise against vass? I know Vass are hand welted and AS are gemmed I assume. Also understand it's a bit subjective but i've got a pair of Vass that I really like but I am eying a pair or AS Exclusive Moore and would like some more info about quality.post #109 of 16663/1/13 at 11:19amQuote:I am yet to have my first Vass delivered, expected around 20 March, but I own four pairs of AS Exclusives. Direct comparison not possible then but I am very satiesfied with the AS. A very good shoe at an attractive price. Just pull the trigger, you won't be disappointed.Originally Posted by dlind
How does AS exclusive measure up quality wise against vass? I know Vass are hand welted and AS are gemmed I assume. Also understand it's a bit subjective but i've got a pair of Vass that I really like but I am eying a pair or AS Exclusive Moore and would like some more info about quality.post #110 of 16663/1/13 at 11:20amThread StarterI figure you will get a number of responses on the Vass thread so I will comment here. Construction will be the first thing with Vass being hand-welted and AS Goodyear but this issue has been discussed in numerous threads so assuming you are willing to control for these factors and look at other variables, I think they are pretty close.
Vass makes a sturdier shoe with preferences for H/A/F soles and a substantial foundation. In contrast, AS makes a thinner, finer sole. Honestly for me, after this point, the rest seems a wash. Both leather calf uppers are good but I would give AS an edge with the finishing/burnishing. Stitching and construction of uppers are both good. Vass has a wider variety of styles and flexibility of design (which can be a double-edged sword) whereas AS makes very nice stock styles.
Since my preference is for lighter (but not Blake-light) constructed shoes but still recraftable, in addition to availability, style, costs, ease of obtaining, and last shape (most important for me), my preference have been a couple of UK makers (Goodyear) for smart shoes and Alden (also Goodyear) for casual footwear. I think Vass is excellent but their Italian lasts just do not fit me as well as some UK/US makers. I accept the construction of the latter is not as substantial as handwelted shoes like Vass, but after taking all this into account, I still primarily choose other makers for my personal reasons which I stated eralier.
You cannot go wrong with either brand and hopefully you will own a pair and decide which one fits your disires better.post #111 of 16663/1/13 at 11:55amQuote:Originally Posted by TC11201
Gents - PSA on sale on AS Exclusives from Bodiley's (www.shoesnorthampton.co.uk):
Thanx for the heads up! Charlton is a truely beutiful split toe derby. I am afraid that I have to pull on those...Even though I have two shoes (Vass) in the delivery pipeline at the moment.
Anyone owning Charlton? Opinions, "in the flesh photos"?
Edited by Swede66 - 3/1/13 at 1:02pmpost #112 of 16663/1/13 at 12:05pmpost #113 of 16663/1/13 at 12:50pmpost #114 of 16663/1/13 at 4:39pmQuote:Originally Posted by Swede66Quote:
I have the Charlton in Pinner suede with a dainite sole. I'm very fond. No photos yet, I'll try to take some if I wear them next week. They're part of the country collection, so AFPOS can ship them to the US. They have them in country calf and Pinner suede.post #115 of 16663/1/13 at 7:29pmpost #116 of 16663/2/13 at 5:32ampost #117 of 16663/2/13 at 1:16pmThread Starter
Thanks, hopes to provide some tempered answer.
VR, wow! . Also, excellent piece re DWFII; best wishes with the expansion.
Oh, anyone own the Wilson? I'm curious to see in vivo pics. Anyone can comment on the 104 last? From measurements I received from sellers, they seem to run a little on the longer side compared to, say the 99.
Edited by SuitedDx - 3/2/13 at 7:22pmpost #118 of 16663/7/13 at 7:52pmpost #119 of 16663/11/13 at 2:24am
I'm new to UK footwear, and am interested in purchasing AS Moore. As I understand, the Moore is available in Black, Cherry and Chestnut. I am mainly after a dark brown shoe, so was wondering if you would describe Moore Cherry being close to dark brown, burgendy or red. There are so many pictures on the internet, all taken under different lighting, so it is difficult to tell.
I really like the colour of AS Hunt Antique Mahogony (dark brown to my eye), but not really after a wingtip design. I prefer the simplicity of the Moore, but afraid to pull the trigger as I am unsure of colour.
Finally, in regards to sizing, I am Size 7 in Loake 1880 Strand (Capital Last). This shoe fits very well. Safe to say I'll be a size 7 in AS too?
Thanks in advance!post #120 of 16663/11/13 at 4:57amThread StarterQuote:Originally Posted by PhiloVance
Part Two of an interview with Chay Cooper, for those who might be interested:
Great article PV
dg626: The Moore cherry has a red tone. Unfortunately I cannot advise on a Loake - AS comparison. Good luck!
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