I'm a new member of this forum but have silently listened for some time to the sage advice offered here. Here's the advice I now need myself:
I'm about to commission W. W. Chan to make up a dinner suit for me during Patrick's next trip to the States. I've had six suits, four odd jackets and a handful of spare trousers from Chan and am very happy with the results.
I've settled on single-breasted, single-button, midnight blue barathea, black grosgrain facings, peaked lapels, side vents (I'm verging on portly -- flattish stomach but very chesty). When I spoke to Patrick about this on his last trip, he mentioned the option of making a cummerbund and bow tie in the same grosgrain. Here are my questions:
1. What is folks' favorite midnight blue barathea? I've seen the Scabal Festival 852054 online (it's 280 g), and read about the H. Lesser 12 oz. The Scabal seems more practical because of its weight. On the other hand, the H. Lesser will probably drape better. On the third hand, I will wear this indoors in places with central heating (and air conditioning). On the fourth hand, I will do a bit of dancing, I'm sure. On the fifth hand, only a bit, not too much..... Help!
2. What about a waistcoat? Can Chan make one, in people's experience? If so, I assume I should have it made of the same cloth as the suit, and with the same facings. I'm not clear on the shape of the lapels, though -- waistcoat images I've seen online seem to have a U-shaped shawl lapel. Is this proper to wear with a peaked-lapel jacket? I assume I should get it made up backless for comfort, right?
3. What about the grosgrain itself? I've read here and elsewhere the merits of Weldon grosgrain. Can Chan get it, do you think? Any advice as to what particular gauge of grosgrain?
4. Buttons -- plain black or covered? Pockets -- besom in self-fabric or trimmed with facing? Trousers -- plain grosgrain stripe or full braid?
Thanks to everyone who replies for the help, and thanks to everyone for the education thus far....