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The sad state of men Morning Formal Attire @ the Epsom Derby 2012 - Page 2

post #16 of 30
I empathize with your sentiments regarding the abominable state of the average morning dress wearer these days. I apologize for my callous criticisms above; it is very au fait here to hurl sartorial abuse just as monkeys hurl their shit, and I often get caught up in that intoxicating, bestial dance.
post #17 of 30
It sickens me to see these things, in a jubilee* year no less.


* That's for you, Nick Sullivan.
post #18 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

I was in the Queen's Stand at the Epsom Derby yesterday where the admission dresscode was "Morning Coat or Morning Suit" for men.
I have to report that the vast majority of men did not comply with the general rules of morning attires and looked poorly put together. This may be related to the fact that at Epsom you can get the tickets to the Queen's Stand simply by buying in whilst at Ascot you need to be invited to the royal Enclosure, and thus at Epsom you are more likely find people that have no clue about dressing well.
All mens aside of working staff, were in either formal Morning attire or national dress. the major problem was in my eye that most wear wearing bad fitting rental, and a lot of them, clearly wearing wedding rental attire (cravats, floral waistcoat, etc), but what I really noted as negative was that the vast majority had unproper shoes: some light brown modern stuff, lots of confy black leather of many designs, some slips on and dricing shoes, lots of cheap/squared toes etc. The ones with a bit better shoes wore different types of captoes brogues and i only noticed probably a dozen men wearing plain captoes Oxfords and some captoes derby (for comfort I wore punched captoe derby, that clearly looked more appropriate that 99.9% of what was there.
Just to give a better idea of the scale of the above, the place was sold out and there were several hundreds of men in attendance, and again, i have personally crossed only a dozen of men dressed properly, with one or two dandys clearly over doing it.
I think this may also be the reason why Royal Ascot this year has thighten the dress code even further, specifying "no cravats" and for the first time "only black shoes allowed".
Below a couple of pictures of me, The black herringbone morning coat and buff linen waistcoat are RTW, as is the Charvet tie. The contrasting collar shirt is the Vincenzo Prisco's I have previously posted about and the Houndstooth trousers in H lesser are bespoke by Gianni Volpe as recently posted (worn with Albert Thurston's grey boxcloth suspenders)
468 (please note that there was a bit of wind that pushed the light trousers against my legs and I also had plenty of coins in my pocket that makes the trouser look not fitting well)
a closer view for some details:
468

Italian Pleats , egad!
What is the world coming to?
post #19 of 30
lurker[1].gif
post #20 of 30
Rental morning attire is pretty atrocious. Last night I chanced to look at some pictures of myself in rented morning attire at my ill-fated second wedding. I look like a complete doofus-geek! The jacket is ill fitting, and the tails bisect my thighs. The whole thing looks bloody awful. The OP looks incomparably better in his morning attire.
post #21 of 30

While part of me wants to join in this anger about poor dressing, I find it superfluous to get ones knickers in a twist over shoes when all at least show up in proper morning dress. You ought to schlepp over to the State of Black Tie thread to see how "seriously" dress codes are taken here. If all I had to complain about people wearing wingtips or square-toed shoes at formal dinners, I'd be a happy man (even on that last bit, Prince William wore wingtips with black tie, so maybe that's no longer incorrect). Instead we have it so bad- people coming to black tie events without ties and with shirts unbuttoned- I can hardly bear to look at party pictures any more as I end up in fits of despair. Seriously.

post #22 of 30
post #23 of 30
The black waistcoats did seem a little off for summer. Nick Clegg looks as if he told his tailor he wanted to appear to be wearing a lounge suit even though he wasn't for political reasons.
post #24 of 30
Thread Starter 

Indeed, only noticed Cameron few others with grey or other colours waistcoat. I think the formality of the occasion must have called for one and also shows that black waistcoat are not for funerals only. Interesting in terms of earlier feedback on this thread, there were many reverse pleats (the young royals) and coat lenght to well above theback of the knee, roghly the same lenght as my own (also as Sator stated in one of his threads on the subject long time ago):
435

Prince Michael of kent with a notch lapels Morning Coat.

Neverthless I cannot say that any of the above was incorrect or not following classic rules (there are historic examples of all the above), contrary to what I have instead seen at the Derby
post #25 of 30
Well, quite simply: coat length is subjective (as always); and there has never been any rule that prohibits British people from having reverse pleats on their trousers.
post #26 of 30
Also, Blackhood's morning dress section of his Wedding Attire guide is awful. Thus: his advice = non-advice.
post #27 of 30
Thread Starter 
I was at Royal Ascot today and decided to follow up on this post. As per my original guess, the general appropriateness level was higher then at the Derby, however I have still seen to many bad shoes (just few examples):
479

467

449

443

Here is my combo as per the Rock Your socks thread:

474

My ful attire (this time the Trousers are proper morning stripe, bespoke by P Mola in H Lesser 8/9 Ozs):

592 (I know the knot is loose.. end of the day)

Some other details:

467
post #28 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

I was at Royal Ascot today and decided to follow up on this post. As per my original guess, the general appropriateness level was higher then at the Derby, however I have still seen to many bad shoes (just few examples):

592 (I know the knot is loose.. end of the day)
I believe your shirt sleeve is too short.
post #29 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scarphe View Post

I believe your shirt sleeve is too short.
In this picture it looks like but in others that I took (no legs in most), you can see the 1cm shirt sleeve... (the double cuff on this particular shirt is slightly more rigid and tend to get stuck inside the jacket cuff) I choose this picture anyway because is the only one in good lighting that show the whole outfit.
post #30 of 30
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