New suit: Cad & dandy, Z Zenga, G&H, RLBL or RLPL

I would try Cad&Dandy since that is also a well known budget London tailor. You can search my thread on Graham Browne for a good idea of what they also offer.

If you like the soft style, nothing beats buying a purple label or Kiton. Afterwards you could bring it to the tailor and let him known how your preference of construction

Forget Z Zenga for their poor construction

I think Purple suit is around GBP3500 for their standard three piece.

Why not try to communicate with Russell, Dan or Richard about the improvement you would like to have on your next suit? For a rule of thumb ask them to use less canvass, perhaps just two to one layer, depends which they go for, to give you a softer feel if you like that...

I am a bespoke only guy now. Even I tried the purple suit I find their suit length is badly proportioned. Waistcoat simply too long, trouser rise way too low, with the slightly long jacket. Armholes will never be cut as precise as GB

I strongly advice on your behalf, that try to ask them about things that you would like to change on the paper pattern, perhaps the structure, design and cloth you would like to improve to be more personalized.

I am not sure how effective your communication is, but you aren't, try to bring some pictures.

Your first bespoke suit will bound to be not exactually you want, given time you will never think of purchasing OTR with the premium price and bad proportion.

There are two directions should consider, in my opinion: i. try someone different (e.g. Cad & the Dandy) or ii. try a higher level of bespoke. Personally, I would continue with the same tailor for at least one more suit/jacket.

I still wear RTW suits but since going the custom route (mtm and bespoke), cannot imgine going for RTW again.

I'd try Cad & the Dandy.

....I'd learn to spell Zegna, and then not buy it but choose RLBL, assuming one is fit enough to pull it off

Do you feel better about yourself now?

Isn't Cad Dandy the guy who went around shilling on SF awhile back?

This strikes me as an odd comment. RLPL is not "soft" style. Far from it, actually. It's structured English military style. (Kilgour, etc)

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6285

 +1

Regarding to your inquiry, Purple label had different range of fit although they never say it.

The old and rare Savile Row fit has a strong shoulder but soft chest, armholes a bit lower than their custom fit, jacket length shorter to give the English look

The common custom fit is Italian style, low rise trousers, longer waistcoat and jacket.

Frankly they are overpriced.

Do you?....by suggesting that I don't and playing an amateur psychologist

With that size, there is barely chance to get something fit nicely in London OTR except suitsupply.