GIEVES & HAWKES SUIT HELP!

I just got a suit on eBay for a bargain price. I looked at the inner tag, but I don't know what line this suit is within the Gieves & Hawkes brand? Looks pretty recent, but I don't know if this is bespoke (I don't think), MTM, RTW, or a cheaper Chinese or American diffusion line or something? I'm wondering if anyone knows what this line is, quality, price, ect? As much detail would be appreciated. Thanks!

Im not really an expert when it comes to Gives & Hawkes but it looks like this one is from their RTW line. But check the inside pockets for a name and date of commision, That is usually a dead giveaway to identify it as bespoke.

Do you know the quality on their RTW? I haven't received the suit yet, but when I do I'll be sure to look for a size tag in the inner pockets, that would confirm it's RTW...

Unlike most of the other famous SR names, G&H have - and for many years have had - a massive RTW output, and more recently MTM, and by comparison a tiny little bespoke operation that gets mixed reviews. 95%+ of their suit sales are RTW. So by the law of probability that isn't bespoke and is almost certainly RTW. And I don't think G&H bespoke carrries labels beyond the inside pocket, like other good bespoke.

I am reliably informed that Wensum currently do their made to measure, so I'd hazard a guess they do their RTW as well. But you have a "made in England" label, whereas Wensum is in Mauritius. The whole "made in" thing has been done over here in numerous threads, but I think G&H used to use Chester Barrie (as was) for their RTW - which is/was made in England.

The advantages of buying RTW/MTM from a good bespoke tailor should be the assurance that they'll doubtless spec the product at the top end of what the factory will do, and that they'll do the alterations properly. Buying used, only the former applies. So guard against paying extra for a prestige label.

Quite a nice looking classic DB, btw.



AdrianS1 said:

Do you know the quality on their RTW? I haven't received the suit yet, but when I do I'll be sure to look for a size tag in the inner pockets, that would confirm it's RTW...

 

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Not really sure about the quality of their RTW, but as the above poster has said its probably of a respectable level of quality. I wouldn't expect Brioni/Oxxford/Attolini level of quality though. If i had to guess i would say its probably somewhere between brooks brothers and Zegna

Adrian you said it all... Bargain price and it looks ok, you must be happy with your purchase,be happy wear it well. I like a bargain now and then. Better still turn up to Gieves and Hawkes in it, tell them you are concerned about the fit and is it part of the service to give it tweak. If they say " I'm sorry sir this suit is 10 years old" then at least you know it's vintage
Brendon

I'd change the buttons out dark gray instead of black. Otherwise it looks good!

i think its a Gieves core line suit. Don't know if they still do them. Core line came in charcoal, navy, birdseye (like this), Navy rope stripe and charcoal rope stripe. They were sold as separates and you could buy flat fronted or pleated trousers, vests, DB coats or coats with 2 or 3 button fastenings.

Is it fairly heavy?

Yeah, I paid around $100 with shipping on eBay. So even if it's not bespoke it's still a good deal in my eyes. It comes from the UK and still had the tags on it, which led me to assume it was at least fairly new, if anything not used. When it gets here I'll check for size measurements, canvassing, ect. It seems like this is a good enough product even if it was RTW, say like Zegna or Ralph Lauren Corneliani quality, priced similarly at least. We'll see. By the way, Mr. David Reeves, I'm a huge fan of your work, your article on white dinner jackets helped me a lot buying mine a couple of months ago. So thank you for your fine work and opinion. Keep it up!



jeff13007 said:

Not really sure about the quality of their RTW, but as the above poster has said its probably of a respectable level of quality. I wouldn't expect Brioni/Oxxford/Attolini level of quality though. If i had to guess i would say its probably somewhere between brooks brothers and Zegna

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Em... I would say Gieves and Hawkes are A LOT better than Brooks Brothers. Better than Zegna for that matter. After all they are perhaps the best bespoke tailors in the world. A Gieves suit is completely wasted on anyone who does not understand the level of skill and quality in their suits.