NYC traveling bespoke suit

Hi Papito
I take affront to your prosecution of my posts.
Why don't you read again,what I posted, firstly pointing out the difference between Bespoke and Made to measure. NYsuit addict stated he had other bespoke suits like RL Purple. I kindly tried to point out the difference and if he had truly between to a bespoke tailor and should " shout it from the rooftops. All tailors suffer occasionally from idiots who do not know the difference between MTM and Bespoke despite the fitting process so I sympathise with Mr Popradi for this. Although NYsuitaddict was complimentary about his tailor he was presenting himself as such. I do not think I was unkind as NYSA was very reticent in posting photo's and then the same photo was posted twice, and what a lean, I had to break one leg off my computer table just to look at it....But then the chair looked drunk. I think Mr Popradi ( may have got the name wrong before,..apologies) looked like a good tailor and have sent a personal message to him with information about cloth and an interest in a visit if I get to Montreal. Oh yes I forgot I also stated that Dormeuil Amadeus is not the cloth it was. Back in the late 1990'sonwards till about 2000 or so, Amadeus was a super 100....Now it is not. So even you can figure out what has happened to the quality there. I behaved like a gentleman in all posts. Perhaps trying to add a dash of humour ie the chair looked drunk...I explain..... the chair is not actually drinking.....
regards
Brendon



Brendon said:

Hi Nycsuitaddict
the ralph L purple is not bespoke, it sound as though you have had a bespoke suit made. I hope you noticed the difference of the fitting etc. The first time you try the suit on it should be at the first Baist stage, ie nothing sewn in no pockets everything loosely sewn with white stitches of basting cotton. Then the next fitting with pockets sewn in. third fitting etc. If this was the process than this is a Bespoke Suit. Or as in America the word custom suit seems to apply. If you have had a Bespoke suit made then hopefully you are intelligent enough as a Banker did you say? to notice the difference between the Made to Measure efforts of the RL Purple vs a hand made suit from scratch. The purpose being that a hand made suit offers greater flexibility. As an ex Savile Row Tailor said recently in an interview, " With a bespoke suit , you get what you want and you body gets what it wants" Ie  a suit made for an individual by an individual. If you have not been through this process then you have just had made to measure and you are still none the wiser. In my city you can visit a bespoke cabinet maker, bespoke dentist, bespoke Mortgage Broker, Bespoke Homeopathist, Bespoke Travel Agent and fortunately thanks to two individuals in a poplulation of over 1.4 million a Bespoke Tailor and only two.
Good luck with your suit, the masses seem to want photo's,  I will google your Tailor out of curiosity 
cheers
Brendon

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This is not nescesarily true, some bespoke tailors (A&S and their alum come to mind) go straight to the forward fitting. When i had a bespoke one made by Steed i think that is what i did if i remember correctly. A common misconception is that the definition of bespoke means lots of fittings and this is untrue you might have more fittings at MTM than bespoke or vice versa depending on how fast your tailor fixes any issues, bespoke simply means that a individual paper pattern has been cut for you as opposed to MTM where an existing patten is altered to your measurements and MTO where a block model is used for you. You are right in saying that RLPL, brooks custom etc are not bespoke, but Len Logsdail and Henry Poole which he mentioned are bespoke.

F. Corbera said:

I don't think the sewing machine is used for the "100% made by hand" suit.
The sewing machine is used to seal the envelope in which the bill is inserted...100% written by hand.

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nice catch on 100% handmade…. Lol

Bespoke used to mean what it meant. It does not today. If you relax the standard you get what we have here andf what is commonly misunderstood in some of these posts. In my city Auckland you can visit a Bespoke Dentist, Bespoke Aromatherapist, Bespoke Mortgage Broker, Bespoke Builder,Bespoke Cabinet maker and yes you can visit 20 suit places that offer Bespoke Made to Measure, all of them made in the same two factories. The proper tailors you can count on part of one hand. Yes and Henry Poole are fine tailors, however.....here's the rant. .....If you have been to Henry Poole in Savile Row as NYSaddict had and also visited Mr Popradi who takes 80 painstaking careful hours of making and you can't differentiate between this intensive process to going in to a fakey RL and having a shop assistant chalk an unfinished cuff on a sleeve and serve you a coffee and brush the shoulders a couple of times a look knowingly as if he or she is suddenly going to re pitch the sleeve or straighten the jacket having previously taken their mont blanc and ticked the posture boxes or sleeve -1cm, waist +2cm boxes and marveled at their creation. Then if the difference is not palpable then one does possibly not deserve the art of Bespoke Tailoring. Trying on a block and making some notes is not the same as the sometimes 2 steps forward and one step back of Bespoke Tailoring. I would not go to a tailor that did not have a first fitting, or keep inlays to make changes in the balance F and B and and straighten or crooken a coat. And though I am not one to turn away good business, I would not want a customer that by the end of my work, struggled to tell the difference between a bespoke suit and Rl Purple. Unlike NYSA I know my purple from my Bespoke.... Barney the dinosaur is Purple
respectfully
Brendon

Sorry for some repeating some previous info there
Brendon



Brendon said:

Hi Papito
I take affront to your prosecution of my posts.
Why don't you read again,what I posted, firstly pointing out the difference between Bespoke and Made to measure. NYsuit addict stated he had other bespoke suits like RL Purple. I kindly tried to point out the difference and if he had truly between to a bespoke tailor and should " shout it from the rooftops. All tailors suffer occasionally  from idiots who do not know the difference between MTM and Bespoke despite the fitting process so I sympathise with Mr Popradi for this. Although NYsuitaddict was complimentary about his tailor he was presenting himself as such. I do not think I was unkind as NYSA was very reticent in posting photo's and then the same photo was posted twice, and what a lean, I had to break one leg off my computer table just to look at it....But then the chair looked drunk. I think Mr Popradi ( may have got the name wrong before,..apologies) looked like a good tailor and have sent a personal message to him with information about cloth and an interest in a visit if I get to Montreal. Oh yes I forgot I also stated that Dormeuil Amadeus is not the cloth it was. Back in the late 1990'sonwards till about 2000 or so,  Amadeus was a super 100....Now it is not. So even you can figure out what has happened to the quality there. I behaved like a gentleman in all posts. Perhaps trying to add a dash of humour ie the chair looked drunk...I explain..... the chair is not actually drinking.....
regards
Brendon

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Dormeuil Amadeus is currently a super 120.

David Reeves the Dormeuil Amadeus 310g ? Are you talking about Summer Amadeus?Or perhaps another Amadeus? What is on the Selvedge? Does it say 120's on the Selvedge?
cheers
Brendon

Suprised at the claims that amadeus is a 120's quality, Out of curiosity today I looked at the Dormeuil Amadeus no mention of super 120's anywhere. I looked at the Amadeus 365 Bunch as well. No mention of it there. Just to be impartial I handled the Scabal four seasons super 120's and there was daylight between them. One you could feel the Lanolin on the cloth as you would expect to find on a 120 the other felt fairly ordinary beside this. Is there any proof that Amadeus is a 120?
Brendon