Originally Posted by gazman70k
Puckering is due to sleeves being too narrow. This fellow has a preference for a narrower cut, which is expressed in this manner. As Andrew pointed out, the narrowness manifest as creases along the sleeves. Also, lighter fabrics tend to show more of the puckering than heavier ones.
Regardless, this was the first jacket made to tailor's house style. Micromanagement at the first instance introduces biases and compromises that a tailor makes to his house cut. Which means subsequent modifications become much more difficult to manage as it blurs, at least for me, what would have been otherwise a different outcome. In this example, only the proportion of the sleeves needs to be changed. I now know the positives and limitations of this particular cut for my physique and have requested more volume for the entire sleeve.
The take away here is that every decision made on aesthetics has some consequence, ranging from the choice of fabric by the client to the volume of materials used by the tailor. A narrow sleeve will crease no matter the fabric, may it be fresco, mohair or linen but also a fabric like say, linen, will always crease no matter the volume.
Having said that, this is a favorite jacket and it has been getting lots of use. Whether it is acceptable or not, it's up to the wearer. And for me, it is.
I understand the narrower cut and also the lightweightness (right?) of the fabric (and I also understand the house cut of the tailor) infact I think that the overall work is nice and well executed, but that could be done without wrinkling on the sleeves - precisely, is the trumpet of the sleeve to cause that problem and not the sleeve beeing too large to the effective roundness of the sleeve collar (BTW for those others asking, this is not the "manica a camicia" typical of the neapolitan style).
"A narrow sleeve will crease no matter the fabric, may it be fresco, mohair or linen but also a fabric like say, linen, will always crease no matter the volume."
I don't think so. It depends. As you may know the final result is the complessive work of the underlayer and how you work them.
Trust me, sometimes it is possible to find a good compromise between the narrowness of the sleeve but also its dynamicity and the aesthetical form.
"Acceptability or inacceptability", well it all depends by its wearer. As for the shoes artisans, everyone think it differents, they all have a different "school" and this is why there are many artisans doing a discrete job. But as you may know very few of them are doing something incredible and unique...that is the real Artisan.