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Bespoke: Multiple in-house tailors vs. One tailor who makes every aspect. Rarity?

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 
I was in a discussion with another member here regarding how bespoke tailors have more than one tailor in house to do different aspects.

It is my understanding that nearly all tailors have more than one person who make different aspects of the suit nowadays. I'm pretty sure all the big houses, all Saville Row tailors, Rubinacci, etc, have at least a few tailors, if not around at least a half dozen who work on different aspects of the suit.

I don't seem to be bothered by this. In fact, it may be better to have specialists make different aspects of the suit. Someone who cuts, does button holes, etc. I know that even Kabbaz, whom I assume has a rather limited output, has someone who specifically makes the button holes on his shirts. In fact, I think it's nice that more tailors are being employed.

I'm not referring to outsourcing tailoring, but tailors that work in-house.

So how rare is it to have one tailor who makes the entire suit? Do you think having multiple in-house tailors is a bad thing?

What about in the past? The so-called old school style of tailoring.
post #2 of 27
Specialization is by far the norm, rather than the exception.
post #3 of 27
Well let's see

Edited by Alexander - 5/16/12 at 4:58pm
post #4 of 27
I think it's extreme rare to have a one-man tailoring band. Is that guy Des Merrion still around? I think he did everything himself.

It doesn't bother me at all that multiple people are involved. I don't even care which house they work from as long as things turn out well.

In the past, I imagine it was easier to find competent workers for this sort of thing so I'd imagine it was certainly no more common to have one guy do everything
post #5 of 27
My guy measures, cuts all the cloth (jacket/vest/trousers) and makes the jacket. He has someone else make the trousers, someone else sew the button holes, and someone else work the lapels.
post #6 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Is that guy Des Merrion still around?

Why, are you looking for a new tailor?
post #7 of 27
What about relatively smaller tailoring operations (e.g. Drinkwaters)? I can't imagine a smaller house outsourcing much of it, especially given the relatively low margins to begin with (now, arguably, I only speak from anecdotal experience, not empirical evidence).
post #8 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Is that guy Des Merrion still around?

Why, are you looking for a new tailor?

I haven't kept up with Dopey's pet projects like I ought to have.
post #9 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metlin View Post

What about relatively smaller tailoring operations (e.g. Drinkwaters)? I can't imagine a smaller house outsourcing much of it, especially given the relatively low margins to begin with (now, arguably, I only speak from anecdotal experience, not empirical evidence).

Drinkwater's is a lot of nice things, but it is not a tailoring operation.
post #10 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

I think it's extreme rare to have a one-man tailoring band. Is that guy Des Merrion still around? I think he did everything himself.
It doesn't bother me at all that multiple people are involved. I don't even care which house they work from as long as things turn out well.
In the past, I imagine it was easier to find competent workers for this sort of thing so I'd imagine it was certainly no more common to have one guy do everything

Weird. I am wearing a Des Merrion suit today and was reminded how he was really my favorite when it came to the trousers. Today's was my first from him and I like it. I liked the second one even better - that was from a lightweight Lesser pinstripe, so it is coming into season.

As you may or may not recall he had a brush with the fuzz but is free again. I think he has had to scale back his business ambitions for a while.
post #11 of 27
Personally, I would prefer multiple tailors; however, if the end-result is the same then it does not matter - the saying 'Jack of all trades, master of none' probably best sums it up for me, let the trouser-maker make the trousers and so forth.
post #12 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

As you may or may not recall he had a brush with the fuzz but is free again. I think he has had to scale back his business ambitions for a while.

Wait, really?

I've missed so much.
post #13 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Wait, really?
I've missed so much.
It was pretty unfortunate. I certainly liked Desmond and wish him well. I hope he has gotten back on his feet.

http://www.thisisgrimsby.co.uk/Ulceby-man-jailed-gun-smuggling-conspiracy/story-11546693-detail/story.html

You may recognize the name of the "co-conspirator"
post #14 of 27
Wow - there you go...

Gun running in the London Lounge.

Makes you wonder how the Armoury guys came up with that name.
post #15 of 27
^ The proper term is "afficionado."

- M

(Although the sawed off one would have taken it to the next level where people would be looking for you.)
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