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WW Chan coat fit -- comments needed. Concerns

post #1 of 37
Thread Starter 
469.

So, having heard about WW Chan, I decided to pay them a visit. Had a coat cut from H Lesser's 8-9 oz fabric.

Here's the final product. Please do offer some critique/comments on the coat and tell me if it's just me, or whether the coat can be cut better, given the piling/creases on the back, just beneath the collar.

In addition, what do you guys think of the sleeve pitch? On my hanger, whilst one sleeve hangs neatly, the other has a curve forward, and no surprises for guessing which sleeve it is - the left sleeve.

I wasn't expecting this with a bespoke coat, but should I temper my expectations or are these really fundamental concerns that should be addressed?

Comments appreciated.

*To give them credit when it's due, the front looks pretty good.
Edited by bboysdontcryy - 5/11/12 at 10:21pm
post #2 of 37
Are we looking at the same picture? I don't see a terrible excess of fabric on the back.

Impossible to tell of sleeve pitch with a picture like this.
post #3 of 37
Thread Starter 
What do you make of the creases/piling beneath the collar? Should I be expecting it to be cleaner?
post #4 of 37
I'm not an expert, perhaps post this in the suit critiques thread? Here's the link: http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions

Anyway, I know that it's caused by it being slightly tight on your back. It's your shoulder blades. I don't think it's such a bad thing though. From what I've see it's normal on most suits. Maybe I'm wrong.
post #5 of 37
Thread Starter 
As a basis of comparison, look at the clean back of this coat cut at Iris tailor in Singapore --


577
Edited by bboysdontcryy - 5/11/12 at 10:09pm
post #6 of 37
Thread Starter 
I don't think it's normal because all my other coats don't have that problem., which is why I wanted second opinions.

And, whilst it might be normal on most suits, you shouldn't be expecting it on a bespoke suit. That's what I think.
post #7 of 37
I'd ask them to clean up the back were it me.
post #8 of 37

From what it seems, its a little tight in the back. From my experience they can let out some in the back seem near the neck area or raise the collar..I think they just need to let it out a little bit in the upper part near the collar and you should be ok. As for the sleeve pitch, its a usual issue for any RTW or custom without any fittings.. they make the sleeves usually at a 90 degree angle where your arms probably dont hang that way. Its causes the creasing in the sleeves in the back. A skilled tailor would need to take off the sleeves and rotate them to the normal angle of how yours arms hang. Easier on a fused suit but harder on a canvassed jacket...

post #9 of 37
Strangely the Iris coat seems to be pulling slightly at the vent. If you are unhappy go back, explain your concerns, it is a little strange but a tailor is better placed to comment. Chan is not averse to discussions. Wear the Iris coat to go if you are happy with that.
post #10 of 37

Your Chan certainly needs to be fixed, and its a common-enough problem that they should be able to rectify it easily.

 

Not sure why some are saying that 'its not a big deal' or 'a little strange' - this is a VERY common issue that comes up during fittings. Chan doesn't offer one, so its not surprising that this wasn't caught.

post #11 of 37
May I know how many fittings you had for this jacket? Was Patrick your fitter?
post #12 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Your Chan certainly needs to be fixed, and its a common-enough problem that they should be able to rectify it easily.

Not sure why some are saying that 'its not a big deal' or 'a little strange' - this is a VERY common issue that comes up during fittings. Chan doesn't offer one, so its not surprising that this wasn't caught.

Since when has Chan not offered fittings? On anything I have had made in HK, two fittings were normal. I agree that items bought from tours do not normally go through fittings because of the time problem.
post #13 of 37

^ I thought the OP was in S'pore so presumed he opted for their traveling (i.e. no fitting) service. Regardless, this is a common problem (not a 'little strange' or 'not a big deal') and should be fixed by the tailor.

post #14 of 37

Frankly, I think any self-respecting tailor wouldn't let his customer walk out of his shop clad in a jacket that fits like that. Those creases beneath the collar should be straightened out. That goes without saying.

 

I've been to tailors in HK, A Man Hing Cheong being one of the few I've patronized, and never encountered such a problem.

 

OP, speak with Patrick or whoever was in charge of your fittings and let us know how it turns out.

post #15 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Your Chan certainly needs to be fixed, and its a common-enough problem that they should be able to rectify it easily.

Not sure why some are saying that 'its not a big deal' or 'a little strange' - this is a VERY common issue that comes up during fittings. Chan doesn't offer one, so its not surprising that this wasn't caught.

I'm actually working in DC, and understand it's typical that Chan doesn't offer fittings for suits whilst they're on tour.

However, I made a trip to HK so I was fitted there. I'm guessing that these 'common problems' should have been caught, and rectified, during the fittings then?
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