Originally Posted by whochrisliu
Well Mr. Lint thats not quite far as those Allen Edmonds are loafers not oxfords. I never have any trouble with loafers, every single one broke in. I tried dress shoes in the past, all I remember where heel blisters and sore feet. I have been wearing moccasins and loafers since. Just recently I decided that its time I try again to get into dress shoes. Lurking around here seeing people talk about their shoes and reading my shoe making book really inspired me. So far however the experience has been lackluster. Unfortunately I think because of the awkward shape of my feet I might need to go full bespoke. Having already threw a couple quid down for these suckers and been let down I am weary to buy other pair of oxfords. I actually never had a pair of lace up shoes fit well for me. I need about a 44 for my mid section, but a 42 for my heels.
That is a common problem.
Are those shoes a wide fit? They obviously are a good fit in the toe box but the additional leather around the quarters are designed for a wide foot. It seems obvious that, behind the toe box, the shoes are not being filled by your narrowing foot.
The wider last is designed for a foot with more common proportions throughout the foot and so the leather will begin to lose the shape where your foot begins to narrow.
The shape of the eyelets and quarters will spread due to lack of support from the shape of your narrower foot, and, also where the shoe is perhaps a little too long. I bet you have a tendency to buy shoes a little big (too long) to accommodate the broader toe box - right?)
This problem will only get worse, not better. A good set of lasted shoe trees will bring them back to the original shape between wears, but the problem will always be there.
I think you are correct, you will need to ask for a MTO with a wide toe box and narrow heel with the tapering commencing from the bridge of the foot.
A rough guess says you are a "F" in the toe box, an E at the beginning of the bridge and a D from the top of the bridge through to the heel. If I am correct then you will be blessed with the requirement of having to wear nothing but MTO Oxfords and Derbys.
One simple solution is also for the bootmaker to make the vamp and eyelets a little smaller, again, no big deal but an MTO nonetheless.
It is not really a big deal, costs a little more, but then the added benefit is that you will typically wear shoes which are a tad better quality than the average bench grade shoe. Another benefit, strangely enough, is that you will need to buy a lot fewer shoes since MTO tend to be a superior quality, so select styles well.
One shoe which I think will be great for your shape of foot is the Edward Green M64 Galway and Shannon. Actually these are boots, but they are wide in the toe box and tend to narrow in the heel.
I have a brother-in-law with similar problems and Dean from G&G makes him an "F" fitting shoe on a "D" last. It is a "D" last with a little extra width around the toe box tapering back to the heel.
Dean won't rip you off.
You could also speak with Nik from Bespoke, Nik is great and he can get anything done.